Answer is simple.......

Battery Tender

Battery Tender Ebay

Amazon au

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* Last updated by: piken on 6/16/2018 @ 12:10 PM *

j0no, that Battery Tender Jr is costly in Australia but that's the one that I've heard recommended for years and years even before I got my bike in 08.

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Sorry guys i didn't see your posts in time.

I got this one from Jaycar. https://www.jaycar.com.au/3-stage-6-12-battery-charger/p/MB3609

If its terrible i'll return it and get one of these Battery Tender Junior Charger Lithium LiFePO4 AGM 12-Volt Charge Motorcycle ATV

It seems to be working fine, Turned my key on and my ignition reads 13.5v+, where as normally it'll read only 12.5 after a night, but still good to start.. so guess my last batters was dying..

Question, After a night/few days of sitting. What does your bike read at for battery voltage?

ALso, Any do's/Don'ts with the battery tender?

Can i start my bike while its connected?
Is it safe to keep connected all the time? I only pretty much ride On weekends, So can i keep it connected Mon-friday without damaging my battery?

* Last updated by: j0no on 6/17/2018 @ 7:13 AM *

• Suits all SLA batteries: Wet Cell, Gell Cell and AGM = Wet cell type so it's a go.
• Charging current: 1.5A = Batt is 1.4a and not a 1.2a rated so this is a go.
• Suitable Battery Capacity: 6-20Ah = Batt is a 14ah rated size so this too is a keeper.

ALso, Any do's/Don'ts with the battery tender?

Not really. If the clips begin to cake up with that white-chemRe, dip the clips in vinegar and wash off with water.

Can i start my bike while its connected?

Yes and no; you can start the bike with the charger connected. However, I don't like messing with AC components that were made for one use only. I keep it out of the loop for anything else.

Is it safe to keep connected all the time?

Yes. You have a DTT box like a volt/reg. Battery 'Discharges.' The "Threshold" has bled out of the capacitor feeding the batt as needed. A "Trigger" flipflops the AC up to charging level. A peak is reached or say the 'threshold' has been met again. The same can be said as repeating a 3-stage charging brain. Constant current being monitored on and off. Constant voltage via the capacitor(s). The float is the 'Trigger' kicking the charger back up.

So can i keep it connected Mon-friday without damaging my battery?

Yes.

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I'm sure the charger you got will work fine.

Question, After a night/few days of sitting. What does your bike read at for battery voltage?

Hate to say it but I haven't ridden often enough in the last year to give a definite answer.

ALso, Any do's/Don'ts with the battery tender?

Don't hook it up in reverse polarity. I've never done that one ..IDK if that charger has a safety system for that. Dont drop it. Don't get it wet. Do keep the charger unit above the level of the battery. Battery outgassing drops to the floor and it could possibly cause an explosion if it contacts a spark. I think this is doubtful but I always keep the charger up high.

Can i start my bike while its connected?

I probably have done that but as a rule, I disconnect before I start just to be safe because I don't know what it does.

Is it safe to keep connected all the time? I only pretty much ride On weekends, So can i keep it connected Mon-friday without damaging my battery?

Sure. I have mine connected all winter. You should be able to let a new battery sit a week without a charge but charging won't hurt it.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/17/2018 @ 11:58 PM *

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Thank you guys :)

I've got a Red wire coming from my positive terminal, It's been crimped off and no longer in use. Any idea what it was previously used for?

That could have been anything, battery charger pig tail, heated grips, accessory lights.... As long as whatever is crimping it off is taped up, I'd leave it. You might have some use for it in the future.

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Per Yuasa's initial charging instructions on a new battery. Minimum 12.8 volts after sitting several hours.
On a used battery, 12.5 volts means the battery is 75% charged and needs re-charging.
I bought a Yuasa AGM YTX 14H-BS. H= High Performance 240 cca. BS= bottle supplied. Got 6 years out of the previous identical battery, even though I don't ride that much. I keep my bikes on a Battery Tender Plus and have for 20 years.
I won't buy a pre-filled battery from anyone. You can't be sure when it was filled or how long it's sat. You can't be sure it was initially charged correctly or even if the correct amount of electrolytes were put in.

I don’t think it was fully a battery problem, my bike was at 13.1v this morning and refused to start. I am at 58000 kms and due for a service, maybe my plugs are gone. I’m. It sure if it’s fuel or electrical related, but I small excess fuel, maybe the bike dumped lots of fuel into the cylinders trying to start idk

For some reason the video isnt embedded., Here's a link to it. Its set as unlisted

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HEKFlNDUJo

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/2/2018 @ 7:17 PM *

When was the last valve adjust? Should start on shit plugs but performance would suck. If you pull the plugs suggest a compression check and a leak down test

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I honestly couldn't tell you when the last valve adjustment was. If they do it in a minor service, Then it would have been done about this time last year, If not.. Then it was before i owned the bike in early 2017

56 Kms ..... hmmmmm Many people dont check/adjust the valves because the stealership/shop charge a shiton for it. Its DIY if you have the mechanical inclination, service manual, the facility and tools and a bit of time so you dont rush it. If it hasn't been checked probably should be on your short list. Interval here is 15K miles.

Look up Rooks tutorial

But make sure you have fuel and spark first, stuff like coil sticks can cause this too

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 7/2/2018 @ 9:58 PM *

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Unfortunately i haven't got the time/tools to do it today, And probably the skills.

Is that something the dealership would check during a major service? I'm going away on business tomorrow, And i'll book the bike for a service when i get back.

What would unadjusted valves do to cause no-starting?

I've got a quote for a service (Air filter, Oil filter, Coolant, Plugs etc) inspect, lube everything And my fork seals for about 930-1000 AUD.. Depending on which shop i go to.

Think they'll check valves while their servicing it? They know its the 60,000K service

Think it'll be alright after new plugs, fluids and service? I'm stumped what could be wrong, It was fine yesterday when i rode it.

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/3/2018 @ 4:45 AM *

For some reason the video isnt embedded., Here's a link to it. Its set as unlisted

I think I did mine at about 24000 miles. Most of the exhausts were tight and a couple of the intakes. They have not changed since I adjusted them. All respect to rudy but I have a feeling this is something other than tight valve clearance. I'd still do it pretty soon. You're quite overdue. The valves probably will not get any tighter but they should be adjusted properly.

If some valves were exceptionally tight, that might restrict their opening fully. The compression might be too high. There might not be enough air getting in. All speculation. I think you would have noticed a gradual decline in starting performance and maybe some other symptoms if valves were tight enough to do that.

If you're cranking many times and the engine won't start, I'm sure that could cause a gas smell. Gasoline must be spraying in but it's getting spat right out into the exhaust without burning.

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That's cranking nice and strong. It should start.

If this just up and happened all the sudden with no gradual change or any warning symptoms, something simple happened. It might not be easy to find but it can't be complicated. A wire got pulled, a connector was left unhooked or something like that.

You are sure the kill switch is in the RUN position?

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I think the next thing would be to check the coil wires to see if you are getting spark. I have never done this. It can't be difficult to do. There must be a test procedure in the SM. Then check coils. Then change plugs. If none of those, you can scratch them off the list.

You must be getting fuel if you smell it. These bikes do have problems with the fuel filter occasionally. That might be it. I think there are normally symptoms of fuel filter clogs while ridding though. IDK if starting would be a problem.

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My bike took 2 turns to start Monday which has been normal recently unfortunately , similar to the video but fired right up the second time. I tried to start it about 5-7 times before filming the video.

I’m 100% the switch was in the run position cause I could hear the fuel pump and everything priming up , I haven’t really noticed a lack of power or anything, it then again I’ve only been riding around town at 60kmh.

The bike shops I’ve got th quote from, are willing to pick up my bike and give me a loaner for the day. The more expensive shop knows it’s not starting and is willing to check the basics while they’ve got it apart, like fuel pump etc.

I’ve only really worked on my old 2 stroke dirt bikes, bo and Hong as complicated as this, that’s why I’m hesitant to pull it apart and try diagnose it myself.

Unfortunately I’m not home at the moment to try anything, I’ll be home Friday evening. I’m thinking of just booking he bike in , they’ll have it for 6ish hours

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/3/2018 @ 8:46 PM *

The more expensive shop knows it’s not starting and is willing to check the basics while they’ve got it apart, like fuel pump etc.

If all answers are yes, ride the thing, stop wasting your money. Year killing me Larry, no matter the year. These are like a toilet... Bulletproof.

1. No offense first question, butt are you anal? It has to start like it used to kind of anal?
2. Then again, I could be missing something here. Did you say it starts and idles, just takes a few spins to start?
3. And the battery issue, are we saying you let the battery sit and not charge it until now?
4. Did you see the volts on the dash show over 14v and change?
5. The fuel pump issue, let's think this out. It always starts and idles. It does not fall on its face, nor has a hiccup reaching readline, correct?
6. To your knowledge of the bike's past... no sync, no valve check history, correct?

Conclusion:
Yes it starts
Yes it charges
Yes it does not fall on its face
Yes it is toilet ready.

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1, lol, not really? I like things to work as expected. And when I just replaced my battery, got a tender and it’s always properly charged, I guess I got annoyed that my bike didn’t start Tuesday. When it was running fine on Monday

2, started fine Monday morning after 2 attempts, rode all day as expected. Didn’t fire up Tuesday morning and I tried about 10 times or so.

3, the battery is hooked up to a tender and it’s fine, also it’s a new battery.

4, riding yes/idling yes, the dash shows 14v, starting in the morning shows 13.3v+ after sitting for a couple of days.

5, yes, always starts and idles, rides fine. No hiccups, or anything. Could that eliminate the fuel pump? (Never red lined it yet, no where open enough to give it a handful, I have gave it a little bit upto like 7k rpm)

6, yes, I don’t know the full service history. I purchased the bike in February at 54000kms and just had a minor service, inspection and whatnot to pass the road worthy in my state.

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/4/2018 @ 12:40 AM *

hey Jono, your story reminds me of something i experienced with my old ER6F a.k.a. Ninja 650
there were days when the bike just wouldn't start, other times when it would start after a few attempts, and periods when everything would be back to normal...
after months of troubleshooting headaches, it turned out to be a faulty magnetic switch, that was located in line with the starting relay... a square black box with a couple of screw connectors, as far as i can remember...

Is this the magnetic switch you’re talking about? All I have is my iPhone at the moment, and researching on this in a country town with bad signal is terrible!!

https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Starter-Solenoid-Switch-27010-1446/dp/B00C2HVP7G

the switch on the 650 looked different... my sometimes failing memory says square & black with the connecting posts
none of these tail connectors i see on your pic... but the switch model on the zx14 could well be different
that random failure to start was driving me mad... eventually found that one trick would help, after a first unsuccessful attempt to start, wait for 5 minutes and try again

* Last updated by: islandninja on 7/4/2018 @ 2:48 AM *

My bike took 2 turns to start Monday which has been normal recently unfortunately , similar to the video but fired right up the second time. I tried to start it about 5-7 times before filming the video.

I think something electrical since the behavior varies. Somewhere there is poor contact happening. It was loose and just recently, it got to the point there is intermittent contact. It must be something along the ignition.

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Um, so my bike fired right up this morning. Nothing has changed, it’s been sitting in the same place as it was Tuesday. Can fuel injected bikes get flooded the similar was carb bikes did?

I’ll take the battery out today, make sure the terminals are all tight and everything is ok there

It appears his bolt isn’t tightening, the nut has fallen I think, any idea how I can retrieve it? Service isn’t due, but I’ve booked my bike in for some work, new rapper cover gasket, valve clearances,fork seals, plugs, clutch fluid and he’ll replace that bolt lol.

https://imgur.com/a/2R15Vxu

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/6/2018 @ 9:08 PM *