I figured that'd be it. I'd put it on the LH subframe. There's a screw on the bottom holding a retainer for the main wiring harness. File the paint off the edge of the bolthole and ground the PC3 there. It's bolted onto the frame and the whole frame is painted but the contact is made through the bolt threads. I never had a problem with mine grounded there.

They reground the Pc in the same spot, but made sure it was done properly, metal on metal.

It feels like it’s got stronger power, maybe due to new plugs, or PC working properly, leaky valve cover is fixed... or cause I’ve been riding an 800 for the week, the z800 has good brakes, felt stronger than my 14 lol. But I did have leaky fork seals what were leaking onto my disk.

Fired right up when I collected it from the shop.

I’ll try start it cold tomorrow morning and hopefully she fires right up!!

Got a question about power;

How would my 2008 with pc3, k&n air filter, yoshimura exhaust vs 2015 SE (might be 2016, Its the one with ohlins) my bro in laws with yoshi slip
ons rest of the bike is stock?

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/13/2018 @ 5:49 AM *

How would my 2008 with pc3, k&n air filter, yoshimura exhaust vs 2015 SE (might be 2016, Its the one with ohlins) my bro in laws with yoshi slip
ons rest of the bike is stock?

The Gen2 will still take ya unless you're brother in law is a lot bigger than you. Stock v stock Gen1 167 whp, Gen2 192 hp. Get some nitrous. Good thing you kept the PC.

The full system is good for 15 hp. The filter, 1 or 2 hp.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/13/2018 @ 8:37 AM *

Got a question about power;

How would my 2008 with pc3, k&n air filter, yoshimura exhaust vs 2015 SE (might be 2016, Its the one with ohlins) my bro in laws with yoshi slip
ons rest of the bike is stock?

From a dig, 1/4 mile, better rider more then likely wins.
(no rolling start bull shit)

Practice your starts, put some money on it and challenge him to a race.

Win or lose it will be a good time!

The Gen2 will still take ya unless you're brother in law is a lot bigger than you. Stock v stock Gen1 167 whp, Gen2 192 hp. Get some nitrous. Good thing you kept the PC.

He’s a lot bigger! I’m 6” 100 kg, he is 6”6 and about 150kg

Would it be safe to say, With the small amount of mods my bike has. I'll be pushing about 180hp?

Practice your starts, put some money on it and challenge him to a race.
Win or lose it will be a good time!

That’ll be fun!! But that flat spot in power at 3k worries me ?? or just launch it hard?

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/13/2018 @ 5:50 PM *

Launch it hard!Past 3K at least.180 HP?Most likely.

Would it be safe to say, With the small amount of mods my bike has. I'll be pushing about 180hp?

Launch it hard!Past 3K at least.180 HP?Most likely.

Yeah, practice that launch. Experienced racers launch ay 8000 rpm. That flat spot doesn't even need to be in the picture. ..and I'd say you have a definite advantage in the weight dept. If you're serious, go on a diet and loose 35-40 lbs. You'll kick his ass no matter how you launch!

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/13/2018 @ 9:04 PM *

Would it be safe to say, With the small amount of mods my bike has. I'll be pushing about 180hp?

Yeah, 178~180. I really don't know how much better one exhaust is than another. Brocks is more of a racing pipe than Yoshi but I don't think Brocks makes more than a couple more hp. I wouldn't go switching now just to gain a couple ponies.

Nah i like how its producing power now, It's feeling a lot stronger overall. Maybe a new air filter or something i'll gain a few more ponies, Not sure of cheap/easy HP mods. Pretty sure ive got the basics already

Front forks seem very stiff after new seals, Maybe that;s how it should be. They were very spongy when they were leaking.

Not sure of cheap/easy HP mods.

http://zx1441r.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=4308

You can bolt on another 60 hp with a $300 dry nitrous kit but you'd need to tune for it. Go to wet nitrous and the skies the limit but you'd need to do some engine upgrades.

WHen I finally got my '06 with a full Yoshi system and dyno tune and just the parr blockoff I was right at 180 hp and with the flys out there was no 3k spot or decel pop. At his point thats what I would do and drive the shit of of her

I’ll note down the mods and put them on my to do list :)

Anyways I can soften up the front forks after getting the seals done, the initial first stroke is so harsh, way too stiff it feels.

Anyways I can soften up the front forks after getting the seals done, the initial first stroke is so harsh, way too stiff it feels.

Did you make a note of your preload, damping and compression settings before service?

I always make a note of all settings before taking forks apart.
I then back off preload, damp and comp all the way.
After reassembly set everything back.

They may have backed everything off, especially preload and then
best guessed it after reassembly.

Changing seals and oil would not have much of a effect, of coarse
unless there was no oil left in the forks from leaking, but would
have to be like 0 oil.

Sounds like good time to set up your suspension, sag, damp, comp.

"the initial first stroke is so harsh, way too stiff it feels".For street riding,you probably want the front to be a bit softer,it should compress and come back up without riding up past the top stroke.In about a second.Same with the back.They should both rise at the same speed and action.Start with the stock factory settings in your manual.Sag MAY be fine.Doesn't hurt to check it though.You know the front's too soft when it hits the stop riding over a parking lot entryway.That you will feel.A nice clunk.Not good for seals.Glad you got the starting thing sorted.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/14/2018 @ 11:42 PM *

Did you make a note of your preload, damping and compression settings before service?

I always make a note of all settings before taking forks apart.
I then back off preload, damp and comp all the way.
After reassembly set everything back.

They may have backed everything off, especially preload and then
best guessed it after reassembly.

Changing seals and oil would not have much of a effect, of coarse
unless there was no oil left in the forks from leaking, but would
have to be like 0 oil.

Sounds like good time to set up your suspension, sag, damp, comp.

Unfortunately i didn't note any fork settings down, I didn't think it'd change this much with just new seals and oil. I assume the forks were almost empty of oil and thus why they were so soft and spongey in the first place.

For street riding,you probably want the front to be a bit softer,it should compress and come back up without riding up past the top stroke.In about a second.Same with the back.They should both rise at the same speed and action.Start with the stock factory settings in your manual.Sag MAY be fine. Doesn't hurt to check it though.You know the front's too soft when it hits the stop riding over a parking lot entryway.That you will feel.A nice clunk.Not good for seals. Glad you got the starting thing sorted.

They definitely need to be a tad softer, Would it be wise just taking it back and telling them the forks are too stiff and see if they can revert the settings?

I'm also VERY glad the starting issue is resolved!! SO excited to put on the gear and take off on the weekends without worry

If it's just the front you want to adjust, that is easily done with a screwdriver.

The adjusters for the front preload are the dark grey cylinders that protrude from the
fork plugs in the top triple tree. The height of the adjuster is what is used to gauge the setting. There are also lines on the cylinder that can be used for a rough estimate of the height. Measure the height of the adjusters before changing them. This is the front spring preload setting. Write it down.

The service manual gives the following specs for front preload measurement:

Adjuster Protrusion (from top)
Standard: 15 mm (0.59 in.)
Usable Range: 4 ~ 19 mm (0.16 ~ 0.75 in.)

I'm your size and I had mine set so the 4th line on the grey cylinder was even with the bright silver fork plug on top of the fork.

The front rebound damping adjuster screw is located at the center of the preload
adjuster of each fork. Use a straight slot screw driver to turn the adjusters all of the way in counting the click stops. The position where the adjuster screw is presently set should be counted as the first click and the next click is “2, 3”...and so forth until the last click is felt. Each click stop is one half turn (180°). There are a few degrees of rotation after the last click stop. That is not counted. The number of clicks out from full clockwise is the front rebound damping setting. Write it down.

Turn the screw out counterclockwise to adjust. The fewer clicks out from full clockwise, the greater the damping force. Be sure that both forks are set to equal rebound damping and write down your new adjustment. There are 13 click stops in all. The 2008 service manual designates the clicks to be numbered 0-11 which is a total of twelve. The last click may not be a true adjustment.

The service manual says, “The standard adjuster setting is the 5th click from the 1st click of the fully clockwise position.” From the table in the service manual, I believe they are saying that the first click is “0” and the standard rebound setting is 5 more clicks or a total of 6 clicks (3 turns) out. My front rebound damping is set at 2 1/2 turns (5 clicks) out from full clockwise.

The front compression damping is the small set screw in the gold fitting on the fork bottom. Turn the set screw, DO NOT turn the gold fitting (it has two flats but don't turn it).

Follow the same routine for front compression damping. Turn the adjuster all the
way in counting the clicks. This is the the front compression damping setting. Write it down. Each click is one quarter turn (90°). The fewer clicks out from full clockwise, the stronger the damping force. The more clicks out, the weaker the damping force. There are 18 clicks (4 1/2 turns) in all but the service manual indicates click #0-13 (total of only fourteen). The last 4 may not reduce damping to any greater amount than the click #14.

Adjust the front compression damping setting. Write it down. Make sure both forks have compression damping set equally.

The service manual says, “The standard adjuster setting is the 10th click from the 1st click of the fully clockwise position.” This is the 11th click (2 3/4 turns) out from full clockwise. My front compression damping is set at 2 1/2 turns (10 clicks) out.

That's all from my suspension tuning tutorial. I do not have the pics up right now but if you need them, I will get them up. If my settings don't work for you, you can set sag properly with you on the bike and the tutorial will tell you how to do that. Since you're my weight and height, sag should be the same for both of us.

I'll bet the shop cranked up the preload. This is the first time I have ever heard anyone say the 14's forks were too stiff.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/15/2018 @ 1:15 AM *

I'll bet the shop cranked up the preload. This is the first time I have ever heard anyone say the 14's forks were too stiff.

Haha,They were great when i first got the bike, I'm willing to bet they just tightened everything up as you say. The first little push of the fork is so stiff. Going up my driveway isn't comfortable lol.. The forks barely compress at all.

there was a good 2 part vid on youtube of a big guy from KHI getting his Gen 1 suspension adjusted. Check it out, its relatively easy to do so its set for your size.

The adjusters on top of the fork, are they meant to have a little movement up and down? I put the screw driver in and noticed I’ve got half a millimeter or so movement.

I put the screw driver in and noticed I’ve got half a millimeter or so movement.

Meaning there is play at the click stop? I can't remember if that's normal.

Yeeah, They;re ontop of the forks adjusted with a flat head screwdriver.

Reset the suspension settings per the service manual to stock settings and establish a baseline. Make small adjustments from there. If you cant adjust properly the click adjusters may be damaged. I would ask the shop if they changed them, just replacing the seals they should not have and if they did they should have set them to stock positions only.

Meaning there is play at the click stop? I can't remember if that's normal.
Yeeah, They;re ontop of the forks adjusted with a flat head screwdriver.

I wouldn't get concerned just yet. That play may be normal. If the damping effect is working, I would not worry about the play. As long as it clicks to the next stop, I would assume the adjuster is working. Try your compression damping down at the bottom to see if it has play. Could be normal. 1 mm back and forth would be maybe 10-15° play.
30-40°, I would remember if mine had that much. I could dig my shocks out and try the damping adjuster screw but somebody on here must have the OEM shocks they could try.

The setscrew at the center of the grey cylinder is rebound damping. That would have no effect on the suspension being too stiff. It could allow the suspension to bottom out if the rebound is way slow. That would definitely be rough but you would be feeling the shocks bottom out. It seems like you are describing shocks that work but they are just too stiff for the amount of weight put on them.

I would just try the preload first. Set it as light as it goes and see if it feels more springy. I don't know if you will be able to tell without riding the bike but that should verify the preload adjuster is working. Then set to stock settings. That should be plenty soft for you. Adjust from there. I was bottoming out on stock settings. The stock preload is too light for a 200 lb rider---when you go over railroad tracks and such.

Just a thought--did the shop put heavier weight oil in the shocks? Some people have done that to stiffen up the suspension.

The compression adjusters on the fork legs(on mine)didn't have any up/down play.I never noticed any up/down play at the top adjusters either.All are firm.Probably be fine Jono.As was mentioned...go back to factory settings FIRST before any adjustment(s).On all suspension parts.IF it wallows at higher speed in a corner,it's too soft.Either front or back.Assuming your tires are decent.

DAVE MOSS on youtube has some excellent vids on suspension adjustment.That's who I went with for my info.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/17/2018 @ 6:54 PM *

I went back to the shop, They adjusted the top a little by a few clicks. It seemed to help a little.

I then got a second opinion, and they seem to think maybe they put too much oil in the fork when they done the seal. which makes sense to me, and was recommended to go back and get them to redo/fix it/check.

"They adjusted the top a little by a few clicks. It seemed to help a little"...okay,so doing that helped some.Now adjust it some more.Check your preload adjuster height.Measure it and compare with the manual.See where it's at according to that measurement.Back off it some more.Personally,I wouldn't be concerned they added 'too much oil'...I doubt it.If what they did helped,then that is working.IMO.Check the compression setting at the fork bottom.How many clicks is that?See if it's set the same as the manual....If not,is it set for 'harder' or softer'?Make an adjustment,then ride and see.Only ONE adjustment at a time.It'll take a bit longer,but you'll know what's working and what isn't.I would start with the preload.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/19/2018 @ 12:17 PM *