Oh yeah. That one. It was overtightened. The well nut split and fell in/ Should be at the back of the airbox. Remove gas tank. reomve bulkhead covers. Reach in and grab it.

Don't tighten wellnuts. Just a bit more than finger tight is usually enough. Do not use locktite.

Never heard of a 14 flooding. I think it's a loose wire.

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Looks like the upper rear grill cover hole. To retrieve, remove tank, remove right service door that is at the rear of the frame's backbone. Once the tank is off you'll see the two service doors [for lack of a better description].

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Will riding with the wellnut inside inside the frame cause any issues? Like, Can it end up in the air box and get sucked into the engine? or is it simply just sitting inside the frame backbone forever? (When I replace it/ if I don’t find it)

How long should it take for me to lift the tank, and access the frame back bone ports?

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/7/2018 @ 3:18 AM *

The wellnut IS in the airbox. It will probably stay put. There is a moisture trough at the back of the airbox where it would have to climb up a short, steep wall to move anywhere. The back of the air box is sloped downward. This has happened before. I've never heard of a 14 ingesting a well nut but you should get it out just to be sure this does not happen. The well nut could bounce up and go down a throttle body if you hit a big bump or something. If you need to ride, just cover the wellnut hole with tape.

You will find it if you look in there. It could not have disappeared unless it went down the engine and you would certainly know that. I'm sure the bike would run poorly.

Disconnect battery neg.: 2 minutes.

Sifone tank: 45 minutes. Get as much out as possible. A half gallon of gas in there is going to be left over and that is heavy enough when you are trying to get that fuel line unhooked. I hope you have a good back.

Unhook fuel gauge, fuel pump connectors (PITA): 30 minutes by the time you figure it out and do so carefully.

Remove 4 fuel tank mount bolts: 5 minutes

Prop tank and unhook fuel line (another PITA) same as other PITA, 30 minutes. DO NOT force that. The lock is tricky if you have not removed before.

Remove tank and set propped up more or less level so left over fuel does not spill out of cap over flow: 3 minutes.

Remove three screws on RH access door: 3 minutes

Remove access door: 5 seconds

Remove other access door if necessary. That one has an air temp sensor in it that disconnects easily.

When you reassemble, make sure you don't overtighten the access door bolts. I believe I go a bit shy of specced torque on those. DO NOT use locktite on them or they will spin instead of threading out the next time you want to remove them.

Don't forget to tug on the fuel line more than twice when you reconnect the fuel line. If you get the whole thing back together and the tank refilled, that's the wrong time to remember to check the fuel line connection.

I have tutorials on all of these if you check the sticky, Rook's Tutorials in How-Tos section.

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Oh--also, the hoses at the back of the fuel tank: 10 minutes or less.

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Thank you, can I do it without fully removing and disconnecting the fuel tank? Just prop it up and be careful I don’t knock it or let it fall?

Only asking cause I’ve got almost a full tank of fuel

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/7/2018 @ 5:37 PM *

On my '06 I think I just unbolted the tank and rotated it 90 deg when I was removing the 2nd flys. But, I may be misremembering ...... was 10 yrs ago. Sure Rook or someone with a Gen 1 will know for sure.

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Successfully recovered, Thanks guys :) If you're ever in Aus i owe you guys a few beers.

Aaaand, Another morning of not wanting to start after riding all day yesterday, beats me what it could be, I didnt have one hiccup yesterday with the bike..

I checked what i could yesterday, made sure battery was connected & terminals tight, Fuses and things under the seat are ok. And it seemed ok. I'll try again in about an hour, Let the battery charge up a bit and see if it fires up. While i'm getting work done on the bike i'll get them to look at the electrics while its apart. Like test the regulator/stator etc?

Also, Pulling the bike apart i found a nice surprise :) I've got a Power Commander 3 USB sitting under my Ram Air covers, That was unexpected. It lights up and seems to be functioning.

I've still god my older battery, Should i try charge that and see if its just a dodgy battery i have in the bike atm?

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/7/2018 @ 7:24 PM *

You can play with the battery or recycle it. Say you play with the battery and charge it and monitor it during the months. You'll also need to monitor the new battery if you let the bike sit. PC3 might be an old style map where the two first columns are sprinkling rich, whereas, they now want zero changes to the idle range columns. Possible improved starting, whereas, only your column knows for sure.

So for access, it's a tether to the laptop, or a remote 9v battery and that connector harness, if you rather not have the key on and wear the battery down researching the map.

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I would say it's an old map. A very old map.

If it doesnt fire over today, After i get the vales,plugs, fork seals etc done. I'll look at changing the map or seeing what map its currently got.

The Fuel indicator lights on the PC3 Is all over the place when i try start it, going up and down when i press the start button

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/7/2018 @ 7:53 PM *

can I do it without fully removing and disconnecting the fuel tank? Just prop it up and be careful I don’t knock it or let it fall?

I pretty much had a full tank every time I syphoned. It takes a long time but it's worth it for the safety factor IMHO. I use a squeeze ball syphoning tool from the auto supply.

On my '06 I think I just unbolted the tank and rotated it 90 deg when I was removing the 2nd flys.

I believe you can do that but you will still need to disconnect the fuel line and the fuel pump connectors and the rubber hoses. Those are all the main reason to make the tank lighter. I can lift 5 gallons of gas but I don't want to do it with one hand while I try to unlock the fuel line with the other. Also, I hate to set 5.5 gallons of gas in there the wrong way not knowing what is getting squashed or pinched or the underside of the tank gets scraped on a bracket. I try to be extra light on parts when I wrench I guess but I'm sure it has paid off.

I've still god my older battery, Should i try charge that and see if its just a dodgy battery i have in the bike atm?

Couldn't hurt but I doubt it's the new battery. The bike is doing the same thing it did with the old battery.

PC3 might be an old style map where the two first columns are sprinkling rich, whereas, they now want zero changes to the idle range columns. Possible improved starting, whereas, only your column knows for sure.

I was thinking along the same lines. You can't hurt anything zeroing out the 0% TP column. The bike is changing fueling on it's own at startup. I would leave the 2% column. That's important and it shouldn't effect your idle or startup. DJ does say to zero the first two columns though. I wouldn't unless you make a copy of that map first.

So for access, it's a tether to the laptop, or a remote 9v battery and that connector harness, if you rather not have the key on and wear the battery down researching the map.

You'd need to download the proper DJ software. IDK what the PC3 used but they will have it on the DJ site.

If it doesnt fire over today, After i get the vales,plugs, fork seals etc done. I'll look at changing the map or seeing what map its currently got.
The Fuel indicator lights on the PC3 Is all over the place when i try start it, going up and down when i press the start button

Make a copy of that old map. Don't just toss it out. If it's all zeros in the first column, that's not it.

I'm only familiar wit the PC5 which has no fuel lights as you mentioned. I can't imagine what those lights do unless they indicate the amount of fuel added or subtracted for each cell in the map. The PC3 should remain constant on 0% TP/500 rpm for a startup. That's the lowest cell. Your not moving the throttle and I doubt the engine is turning 500 rpm on the starter.

Another thing to check is the notorious PC ground. If it's at the coolant reservoir, that has been known to get loose under that soft plastic. Ground it somewhere else like the side subframe. There is a bracket there. I believe a blank threaded hole too. I have pics if you need.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/7/2018 @ 10:19 PM *

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Trust me, you will wish you syphoned most of the gas out of that tank. It doesn't pivot up on a hinge like the busa. The rear mount will be gashing against the inside of the undertail while you're grunting and groaning. I would certainly never suggest propping the tank with a 2 liter bottle like I show in my tutorial unless the tank was almost empty.

If you must, shove some rags between the rear mount and the undertail. hang the front from an overhead beam with some bungies. I don't think you will need to disconnect any hoses but keep an eye on those fuel pump wires and rubber tubes at the back of the tank. Or play it safe and syphon. Personally, I will do anything I can foresee to avoid a mishap. When I get sloppy, that's when I might get a warning mishap.

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Or u could try disconnecting the PC3 and see if that changes the no-start intermittent gremlins. Bike should run just fine without it.

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Or u could try disconnecting the PC3 and see if that changes the no-start intermittent gremlins. Bike should run just fine without it.

At the PC3 Module itself or elsewhere? i wasn't able to follow the wires from the PC3 To wherever it goes (ECU?) they went buried behind fairings i didn't remove.

I would certainly never suggest propping the tank with a 2 liter bottle like I show in my tutorial unless the tank was almost empty.

My tank was about under half, So i did similar to the 2 litre bottle trick. But propped it up just enough to get my socket in there and remove the bulkhead covers. and grab the wellnut. I reused the nut but didn't tighten it much. I'll replace it when i pull the fairings off next.. which probably will be sooner rather than later unfortunately.

I'm a bit scared of playing with maps on the PC3 atm, I don't want to make it any worse than it already is. I was thinking of waiting for the valves/plugs etc to be done before i mess with maps etc. I was thinking of asking the shop and getting the bike dynotuned/custom map for.. but it might be a waste of money.

I'll have a look at the ground/try find it next time i go to the garage and check if its loose or anything.

Edit; just fiddled with some wires near the plastic coolant tank, and it fired right up.. maybe one of them were loose or it was just a coincidence , haven’t had time to check the earthing yet.

While I was down there I noticed the coolant was low, can I just use any old stuff of does it have to be aluminium friendly or what not, should have some here for the car still.

Something like this be ok?

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/NULON-GENERAL-PURPOSE-PREMIX-COOLANT/523423?menuFrom=1021656

or this Silkolene might be more suitable

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Silkolene-Pro-Cool-Coolant-1-Litre/124148

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/8/2018 @ 7:36 AM *

Distilled water will be fine. I doubt you'll dilute that much to cause a freeze-up down the road.

The toilet triggering-wink-wink: see what I'm saying? Now we have the aftmrk item in the loop. OBTW it started right up. WATT are the odds we add a little wire wiggle at the ground source, we do not see a lag at the toilet handle, meaning, we have to wait for the water to kind of flow first LOL.

So we now play those odds. We leave the map alone, do not mess with bike, we did move a wire, or 'what was the last thing I did' to make that change. Get it? PC's are just as bulletproof so say it was the ground at the PC. I'm going by what you're saying, ie, I moved a wire, it starts faster, ie, normal ZX-14 style.

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Distilled water will be fine. I doubt you'll dilute that much to cause a freeze-up down the road.

Alright cool.

So we now play those odds. We leave the map alone, do not mess with bike, we did move a wire, or 'what was the last thing I did' to make that change. Get it? PC's are just as bulletproof so say it was the ground at the PC. I'm going by what you're saying, ie, I moved a wire, it starts faster, ie, normal ZX-14 style.

Next time it plays up starting, I'll move those wires again/check ground. I'll have more time and see if it fixes it again lol

Maybe it was just a coincidence though, or luck.

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/8/2018 @ 8:27 AM *

I forgot to mention the rubber grommet can be secured with a dab of amazing goop brand glue. It won't make it spin or fall back in the frame again. Kills two birds.

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At the PC3 Module itself or elsewhere? i wasn't able to follow the wires from the PC3 To wherever it goes (ECU?) they went buried behind fairings i didn't remove.

The PC3 should be connected inline with the throttle bodies harness which is located on top of the engine behind the throttle bodies. Brown plugs and the PC5 has grays that connect inline. It is very difficult to disconnect. You would need to hook the t-bodies harness back up and disconnect a second time if you want to put a PC back in. I would rather have a look at the map first. Call DJ. If the old PC3 is broken, they will be able to tell you symptoms. It could be intermittent contact in the PC3.

My tank was about under half, So i did similar to the 2 litre bottle trick. But propped it up just enough to get my socket in there and remove the bulkhead covers. and grab the wellnut. I reused the nut but didn't tighten it much. I'll replace it when i pull the fairings off next.. which probably will be sooner rather than later unfortunately.

Just make sure it doesn't come off again.

Too bad I didn't mention earlier--you might have found a 5mm wellnut at the hardware store.

Edit; just fiddled with some wires near the plastic coolant tank, and it fired right up.. maybe one of them were loose or it was just a coincidence , haven’t had time to check the earthing yet.

When there's a problem with a PC that's usually it. The ground is bad. The suggested coolant bottle location is not good on the ZX-14. I heard of a guy who did something like: eye terminal to frame, serrated washer over eye terminal, low profile nut over serrated washer, bottle over low profile nut, flat washer over bottle, screw through the whole works. You might need a few mm longer screw. You would need to make a wrench out of thin steel plate to turn the low profile nut or use a stud (I think the guy used a stud) instead of a screw and grind some flats to grab when you tighten the nut on top of the bottle. Do not tighten that bottle more than spec. It will crack eventually. I use Lock Tite and tighten under spec.

While I was down there I noticed the coolant was low, can I just use any old stuff of does it have to be aluminium friendly or what not, should have some here for the car still.

My coolant is always low in the bottle. Less weight. It's just an expansion tank. As long as your radiator is full, it doesn't matter if the bottle is low. I wouldn't add anything. Check the radiator level with the bike on the sidestand. If it's level and you remove the cap, coolant will run out and it won't be full anymore.

If you add, I would use Kaw coolant mixed to the proper strength with distilled water. IMHO, a cup of pure water is definitely enough to float one less ball. Probably wouldn't allow a freeze. You might want to plan a coolant change /flush in the near future anyway. I do it every two years.

PC's are just as bulletproof so say it was the ground at the PC.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/8/2018 @ 9:29 AM *

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+3 on the PC3 ground

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Another cold morning, Another no start.. Ive got the bike booked in Wednesday for my valves, plugs, and leaky valve cover gasket. While the fairings are off they're going to check the PC3 Ground, Battery ground and run a multi-meter over everything.

I know it's something simple, But it's just so frustrating -_-

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/8/2018 @ 5:30 PM *

Your bike has a anti theft unit on it doesn't it.One of those wires may be shorting or something.Look at your key.Is it damaged any?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/8/2018 @ 5:58 PM *

Look in your DFI section for codes(in your service manual).Your book will tell you how to access those.Your answer may be in there.

Your bike has a anti theft unit on it doesn't it.One of those wires may be shorting or something.Look at your key.Is it damaged any?

Yeah, It's got an immobiliser, I've tried both keys, My red master key (hasnt been used til now) And my regular key, It's also in good condition.

Look in your DFI section for codes(in your service manual).Your book will tell you how to access those.Your answer may be in there.

Unfortunately my manual is in storage, Recently moved houses. I'll try find an online one.

Think it might be a fueling issue maybe, There's plenty of cranking power there when pressing the starter swtich.. But im not sure..

Just to cover my tracks, and get the stealership to recheck what i've checked.

what should i ask them to check specifically?

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/8/2018 @ 7:12 PM *

I guess don't need to tell them what you checked. They should know what the most likely culprits are.

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