I just got my 06 back from having a major suspension rework. Put Racetech valves and springs in the forks, complete rebuild of the shock and revalve. It's really different. Before, when I hit a bump the entire chassis would react. Now I hear the tire hit the bump but the chassis is almost completely unfazed. The guy who did the job said that the stock front springs were too light, were sprung for your basic Japanese or European rider. So it took so much preload to get the ride height right that the forks were operating at the bottom of the stroke. He says now the forks are running in the middle of their range. I'll check it out more this Saturday but so far it's a big change.
Feels way more refined.

Mad

I reverted the forks back to stock settings (5 Clicks out ontop, And 10 on bottom) They seem to be better, But still quite stiff after the first couple of inches of travel.

I've probably got some more adjusting and fine tuning to go with the clickers. I'm not sure how much clicks the top/bottom has in total. I might wind it out a little more.

* Last updated by: j0no on 7/20/2018 @ 2:32 AM *

How in the name of Jebus did this thread go 6 pages?

It's a miracle Hagrid...

Mad

"But still quite stiff after the first couple of inches of travel"...turn the preload adjusters counterclockwise like 2 turns more.See if that helps.If it's STILL stiff,go 2 more(or 1,depending).Pump the fork.It must not rebound up past the top stroke and settle again.That'd be too soft.

"I'm not sure how much clicks the top/bottom has in total"...turn them back and count the clicks,then set to stock numbers.The manual says how many clicks are maximum softness(how many total clicks they'll open out to).DO NOT force the adjuster(s)'closed'.When it stops turning,stop trying to turn it.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/20/2018 @ 11:57 AM *

"I'm not sure how much clicks the top/bottom has in total"...turn them back and count the clicks,then set to stock numbers.

Or just go back and read my previous post. They're long but they're quality.

p. 5

GRNieee

He has a G1 and is like 117 KGs of ass mass so he has the typical G1 problem of the stock spring rate is way light for the ass mass.

Spring preload is to set the sag so the suspension travel is in the middle of the dynamic range of the suspension travel.

j0no - you probably should get the correct springs for your size and/or have a pro help you set it up as best as he can with the stock springs. Setting the suspension wrong can be risky if the front and the rear are not in sync and don't work together.

Go to the RaceTech web page and play with their spring rate calculator for what you need.

Didn't realize that...thanks Crude.

I still think you should be able to get the stock forks soft enough without bottoming out. IMO the stock suspension is fine on the Gen1 for a 210-220 lb rider after you get the preload right. I don't feel my Ohlins' are a heck of a lot better for how I use the bike.

If you have a rear stand, a front fork lift stand and a couple cinder blocks, you can get the sag set perfectly. Otherwise get a trusted partner to hold the bike vertical while you sit on it. The compression and rebound are something you'd need to experiment with to suit your needs.

"I still think you should be able to get the stock forks soft enough without bottoming out".Me thinks so also;)

I agree if u know what ya doing

How in the name of Jebus did this thread go 6 pages?

There's nothing else happening on the whole forum. People with sense in their heads are out riding.

I was out today. I stopped for fuel my fans were running before shutting off the engine. After refueling I turned the key ON which triggered the fans-ON. I hit the starter button-a funny sound like that Starter and fans cannot be running at the same time. Switched off the Ignition and did a restart and the engine fired up. This is the second time in a week this has happened. I suspect my Scorpion YTX14-BS 220cca battery may be running low on amps. I bought it in Sept 2016. The Battery shows 12.5 volts before starting first time. 11,000 miles on the battery.
Any thoughts?
Nice today, just 77 degrees.

time to load test to find out

I've learned over time that you can't trust a battery just because "it's not that old" or should be good based on it's age and usage.
Because of past lessons learned, I'll never buy another bargain battery or re-labeled battery again either. Strictly Yuasa higher performance for me and I'll fill the battery myself please. I've had zero problems with Yuasa AGM's and I fill the battery myself and I do the initial charging and sealing.
As for your 12.5 volt reading, was that the reading on your 14's dash or from a trusted meter? I don't consider the bike's meter to be accurate enough.
Every chart or info I've ever seen says that 12.5 volts on an AGM battery = "75% charged and needs to be re-charged". If it won't hold the fresh charge for long, then it needs to be replaced.

Just a follow-up. I ordered YUASA YTX14H-BS 240cc for $68. I followed the recommended initial charging cycle and this Battery spins the motor and runs the radiator fans with ease. Peace of mind again

That's the battery I bought. I've had good luck with genuine Yuasa.
As long as your charging system is good, you'll be OK.