So I’ve gotten to ride my girl for a few days now with the Sato rear sets and the HM shifter, after making some small adjustments she feels great! I made the first few changes to the HM today. All I did was turn up the sensitivity from 50 to 70. Just that small change and she is way better. I may go to 80 to see if it gets even better. What are you guys running for changes?

I am also going to try upping the sensitivity. Wait until yu hear the vids from the shifter at the track. When it works it's like magic. Once in a while it doesn't work and it will scare the crap out of you going 100mph.

Yeah I have mine set at 70% now. And may go a
Little more!

I have mine set to 60 or 65 sensitivity, cant check right now because I am away working. With lower sensitivity, you have to apply more effort shifting and it "jams" into the next gear. Since setting my shifter to lower sensitivity, I have yet to miss a shift...

Yeah you might be right but I don't like how it jams into the next gear... It's much smoother at 70%. I also took off the ext and just letf it for compression and I like it way better. I don't need any help with the down shifts. LOL

I don't need any help with the down shifts.

The HM I have has the ability to do both up and down shifting but auto blip on the ECU? I never knew they offered a racing ECU? Hmmmmm

I'm just going by what it says in the handbook. I have no idea if there is an ZX-14 race ECU. I believe the HM handbook referred to them as kit ECUs.

What model HM did you get that does clutchless downshifting? Not the HM Plus--?

I'm pretty sure it the plus but you can set it for ext, compression or both. When I had it set for both it cut the ignition when down shifting but without the auto blip it’s not smooth.

AHHH- yes, you were clutchless downshifting but I am quite certain that our system, the HM PLUS is not designed for that. As you know, the compression setting is for standard, toe up, road bike shifting and extension setting is for toe down race shifting.

The C/E setting does cut ignition for both types of strain. however the purpose is NOT to enable downshifting. The real purpose is to enable both standard shift pattern and race shift pattern without the need to change the setting from C to E on the module. This would be for race teams that switch the bike out between riders that prefer opposite shift patterns. IMO, the C/E mode is of very little use to anyone because if you used it, you would still need to take the shift knuckle off and turn it around so the shift pattern was reversed. If your gonna go through all of that, I don't really see much problem in just switching the module to E or C.

BTW, upped the sensitivity to 70% yesterday and I still missed a shift. Seems most likely crossing N between 1 and 2.

Thinking about it, seems to me that the sensitivity may not be the real issue. The sensitivity cuts ignition which unloads the gearbox and prolly makes it easier to come out of gear but it does not do as much get it to go in to the next gear. You need to push it in to the next gear until you really feel the lever stop. Not quite as smooth as using the clutch where stuff just seems to fall into place.

Rook I don't use mine first to second cuz either the front wheel is in the air or she will start to spin the wheel real bad! only on 3rd n up under 75% gas or more....

LOL It's not real easy to find a place test this baby under full power over second gear. You're doing over a hundred before you can really do anything. I know of a place out in the sticks. Might give that a try some time. I'm not so worried about managing the bike, it's more that other thing. You know, the "P" word. I don't go flying around everywhere like I used to.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/23/2012 @ 12:08 PM *

I think this thing gets a little oversensitive when it gets hot. 80-85 F today. 3 hours in the twisties lots of fairly high rpm. I saw 5 bars one time in town(Highway cruise at 65-70 mph was still 3 bars though).

I never even intended to use the shifter today except maybe a coiuple times. I had 2 accidental gear shifts and I am quite sure that my shift lever has more room under it than it should have. One went to Neutral shifting between 1 and 2. It seemed strange to me both times cuz i never even felt the lever --def not the second time. I hardly even touched it. I had a feeling the shifting was being effected by the heat of the motor. Stands to reason. The shifter gets hot, it expands and that throws off the settings. I know this thing is supposed to self calibrate but maybe it has limitations.

Just thought I'd post in case anyone was wondering the same thing.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/20/2012 @ 7:31 PM *

My sensitivity is 60, I like to "load" the lever before I shift to insure I get a "positive" shift. Seems to work very well for me, I have nver missed a high RPM shift WOT and do it quite often.

JMHO. I wouldn't load the lever with one of these. There is always a chance it will shift out of gear if there is compression on the shift rod. still have mine on 70%. Maybe I'll go back to 60% My technique has been to lift the shift lever until I feel it stop. Just nudging it up like I do with the clutch might not make the shift to the next gear.

This was not missing shifts today. It was an accidental shifts. The shifter cut ignition and the gear popped out with very little pressure from my foot. I did not even want to use the quickshifter. I was getting ready to shift with the clutch but my toe must have pressed the lever a bit too hard and it went from 1 to N. I'm sure it was the heat expansion that was causing it to react differently than it had before.

Far as I can remember, there is no way to shut the shifter off without disconnecting the loom connectors and plugging the OEM connectors back up to the stick coils. Closest thing to shutting the thing off would be to lower the sensitivity to the lowest setting.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/20/2012 @ 9:40 PM *

OK, missed my first shift at high RPM last night.... I did not shift firmly.

That'll do it . I am not so sure it is something that can or should be compensated for with sensitivity increase. If you do not click it up fully to the next gear, more sensitivity will only make it easier to shift half way. For me what needs to be adjusted is my apprehension about shifting that fast at high rpm. The acceleration increase is a lot more than I ever would have guessed and the feeling of hitting the next gear WOT is a little intimidating.

I had he bike very well warmed up again and no issues with sensitivity this time. I am sure the shifter's sensitivity became greater when the bike got hot on the ride previous to this. The shifter is constantly self calibrating but perhaps under severe conditions it requires a bit more time to think things out. Once it has it, maybe it will self adjust quicker thereafter. Like I said, it seemed to work great last time.