Hub I got that part but what I am saying is if I drill the shifter lever and bolt one end to the lever and the other to the case or speed sensor like it shows in Seno's pic it will be all ridged mounted and the gear shifter will not travel upward and make the shift? The other set ups I see show them on rear sets but I was told you didn't need rear sets with this....anyone have a clue?

Stiff is my X to Y no Z spelled joy: = "ridged" = Seno's setup = drill = Now I get it.

My shifter is stiff, matched Seno's drill spot? I don't think it works like that. If your foot to shift is back or forward, up or down, you have to find that X to Y so Z becomes the triangulation point.

You know X is fixed. Y is your swivel point. Stab the Y side, so it is somehow throws that pivot point where no bind is happening. Even if you have to saw off a flat plate, bolt it into the hole you made. Now, either the plate is above the shifter or below it as your pivot ~ No bind felt.

Say, you missed the hole by a fraction, you now drill near it, it dumps into the drilled hole. Get that move? So, that says, you eat a new lever, or the plate deal resets the better throw. Again, no bind on the shift.

I hear you now Hub.. I was lookiing at Seno's pic of the Dyno Jet Quick Shifter and at that angle it looks like the Dyno jet unit must be like a plunger or it would not shift up. What do you guys think? Does the dyno jet go in and out?

The Dynojet is a "plunger" activated switch. At the top of the rod there is a detent cut in the plunger shaft which activates a micro switch. As far as the HM shifter goes, there are no moving parts to "bind" so it is much smoother. I changed my linkage around a bit. The HM is so smooth and it's the way to go as long as you don't mind parting with the $$$...

Yeah but I don't have rear sets...I had them but sent them back as my size 14 feet are way too big for them. So I have no idea of how I'm going to make this work now. If I drill the gear shifter and bolt a rod end to it and them angle it back to maybe where one of the foot peg bolts is that might work but I still have no idea of how it will actuate it since it’s not really pushing on anything?

Swing the actuator rod 180°
Make a stopper off the shift shaft.

Meguyveer Move:

1. Shave the shifter [linkage] down with a file. Grind it, I don't know? Maybe it will melt over the spines? I know a file down can you now push the link on, push the tiny rise up as the end of the spine meets the filed over the one way movement of that one drag of the file.
2. This piggybacks the aftmk shifter arm to take up some spline on the shift rod.
3. Glue all the parts on, even slop glue on the spline, so this wedges [no movement] says; more bite on the shaft.
4. You have that glue over the original shaved down shifter, so there is no way both will move on the spine [individually], then sheer it off so close to the end.
5. You'll need a mini puller to yank from behind; both shifters; straight off the shaft.
6. Pick the glue off and every bit will be removed off each part.
7. I fart in you general direction is the attention [getter], you don't think I can make that work? NOLTT!

Big Toes and WTFfffffffffffff you doing it that way for????

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/8/2012 @ 9:33 AM *

Hub I have to ask......Did you eat a lot of paint chips when you were a kid??

if I drill the shifter lever and bolt one end to the lever and the other to the case or speed sensor like it shows in Seno's pic it will be all ridged mounted and the gear shifter will not travel upward and make the shift?

Yeah, that's right. The HM is NOT going to work as the DJ shifter would. It is solid. It would sense the pressure and do the fuel cut but would prevent the sift lever from moving.

This is really reaching, Somefun but could you connect a short rod with the sensor from the foot peg to the shift lever? That would cause a pull to happen when you upshift. You could set the strain gauge to sense extension. Either that or make longer rearsets as mentioned in the other thread.

Rook I'm gonna call Sato and see what they have...I saw their rear sets on line and they looked good and they come with the brake light switch and also I see they have longer ends for shifter and brake. I like the stock width of the controls and with my big ass feet with the Gillis I had my toes would hit the kick stand all the time. So if I get the longer ends I may be ok...Man this quick shifter is getting mighty costly!

No, fun, but funny you should ask. This is head bang. I might 'tear might' like chew on the wood. Yes, too much munching on the crusty part. So listen... Ass if anyone does LOL... Would you quit fucking around and set the thing up on the vertical plain already! Run it off some bolt hole up top!

Move out day way....

Want me to send you some paint chips? More like brick bread, you make croutons with it.

I'm trying for pizza tonight

Satos are very nice and if I recall my rearset research they were the only ones that listed their range of adjustment measurements.

Here's the catch, if you get into cornering, the OEM pegs are angled up out on the bottom and that allows for an extra half-three quarter inch lean. Plus they have the springs which are very safe if you drag a peg. Vortex pegs are fatter and they are not angled underneath. They are about an inch shorter than OEM pegs. That is how they get there improved clearance. You could cut them so they were angled underneath and that would give you a lot more clearance. I imagine Sato is the same way, although they may adjust higher than Vortex also. However, if you are a big guy, pegs raised way up is prolly not what you want all the time.

Vortex, 4 3/16" long

OEM, 5 5/16" long

As far as height from the ground to the bottom of the pegs, Vortex and OEM are the same measurement. The only way you are gaining cornering clearance is by having shorter pegs cuz they ain't higher......unless you cut a bevel underneath like the OEM pegs.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/9/2012 @ 5:42 PM *

Rook thanks for the post! I live for the twisties for sure and do a few track days every year...My lower body faring’s have road rash from scraping and the knobs on the ends of the pegs are worn real good. I have no chicken strips and make it a point to make sure they are gone...But after doing real long rides (800) plus a day the stock pegs are nice. I was hoping to space out the Sato pegs a little and the same with the shifter and brake levers so my feet fit them better....I do like how the stock pegs fold up if you scrap the ground thought....I hope I'm making the right decision by buying them....Most likely way cheaper to get rid of the damn shifter but I think I will really enjoy it....

A guy at Motomummy said the Sato's are the closest to the bike and the vortex are a little longer....what do you think?

I had to go measure mine lol I said I would months ago...

The gilles are 13.5 in in the lowest setting, about 13 5/8 in the highest setting. The length of the peg is 3 7/8 in. Even in the low setting there are uncomfortable after a 4 hours trip but then again even the OEM were.

* Last updated by: dragking on 4/10/2012 @ 10:13 AM *

Dragking love the look of the Gillis but for me they were not real comfortable. I wish they were I wound up selling them about a year ago. I think I'll have to space them out a little no matter what brand I go with.... I think I'll be ok if I space them out some.

Dragking love the look of the Gillis but for me they were not real comfortable. I wish they were I wound up selling them about a year ago. I think I'll have to space them out a little no matter what brand I go with.... I think I'll be ok if I space them out some.

Yeah, I see those little guys on gsx-r and other liters with raised pegs all the way back and I'm jealous. When you look at the position of their knees, knee down is easier for them.

I love the quickshifter. I don't find a lot of places I can open it up and go through more than 1-3 but when I do, damn it sounds menacing. I have to get some vid of this. I'm sure the cages are wondering WTF when they hear me come out on the freeway ramp! ehehe!

Just one gripe I have and it's not a big one...this shifter really requires a lot of locknuts. They supply you with 3 lock nuts. You should have at least 4 locknuts between various sections if you are going to keep the entire length of the sensor/rod tight. If you look at Seno's last pictures, you will see what I mean. He has two lock nuts in front of the sensor, one locknut behind the sensor and then one more at the back of the shift rod.

I am already sort of jumping through some hoops to get my 115mm shaft on there. Not real easy for me to adjust without taking the whole shift knuckle/linkage off and apart. I think I can get another nut in there like Seno's but I may resort to using a little blue locktight instead. My sensor is rolling back and forth on the threads right now.

I should have my Sato's for the weekend....I need something to keep me out of the house! lol I only hope I can make the comfortable because a ride the heck out of my girl....10k a year and most rides are 1600 to 2000 in just a few days....Not to mention I'm not getting any younger.....lol

I like the fact that you ride has all those power mods but you also ride long distance!

Thanks man she is not a Gerage queen! Lol rain, shine or 200 mph! It's got to be done.... Last spring we rode 8 hours in rain to West Va. And i have to say 8 hrs in the rain is still better than 8 hrs of sun while sitting in the office! These girls or not for show it's all go! Lol

Well got the Sato rear sets on last night I do like them they fit real nice and I set them up to match the stock set and extended the shifter end out about a 1/4" to match the stock shifter.....Went for the first ride this morning to try it out. It was pretty cool for sure. I have to adjust the shifter down a little more and I should be good. It was a little too cold this morning on the way to work to really let it rip but from the few shifts I did was real nice. It was a little notchy if you were no really getting on it. But it was fine under WOT. It maybe that it’s just a WTO thing and shouldn't be used for casual shifts? What do you guys think?

The first time I used I missed second and went to N. Also last night, it slipped out of 2 upshifting from 1 and went to N. I grabbed the clutch and clicked up to 2 immediately. First time, I waited a second or two and just coasted.....if you do that, it's going to grind if you put it in gear with the bike rolling. Best to pull clutch, stop and click to 1.

IMO you need to give the shifter a more definite input or the gearbox may not skip past N. I do not think it is necessary to jam it in but you need to feel that lever stop on an upshift. Also, the install booklet says that the shifter self-calibrates on initial use and continuously thereafter. The performance may not be optimum if you have not touched the shifter in a few days??

I would agree that the transition from one gear to the next is a lot less smooth without the clutch. That does not surprise me at all since the gearbox does not disconnect from the driveline while using a quickshifter. There is a slight bang into the next gear. You can almost see this abruptness in the vids where they demo their shifter with a bike on a rear stand. You see a quick jerk as it hits the next gear. I wouldn't call it notchy as if the lever feels rough or grinding.

I also have a hunch that you are correct in saying that the shifter feels smoother at WOT or higher rpm. I have not had enough opportunity to test but I had the same thought as you.

The shifting is amazingly fast with the shifter. I actually did not think it would make a big dif in performance but after using it, I would say that the quickshifter would give me a sizable edge in a straightline burst over clutch shifting. IMO, I would mostly reserve its use for sport riding. Its too much fun to not do it once in a while through town though!

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/16/2012 @ 11:29 AM *

I'd installed a DJ unit on my 10r before my last track day... Loved it!... I set the QS and shift light to come on at 12500. When I saw the light, I'd keep it pinned WOT and bang a gear... Too much fun!
Unfortunately, the shift rod broke when I lowsided... back to the blip until I get a new one. Will get a spare this time.

I'd installed a DJ unit on my 10r before my last track day... Loved it!...

Often hear that they do not last long. heard that all the way back in 08.

Often hear that they do not last long. heard that all the way back in 08.

Heard same... was cheap (used)... & I got a hook up to get my DJ stuff re-furbed for free.

And i have to say 8 hrs in the rain is still better than 8 hrs of sun while sitting in the office! These girls or not for show it's all go! Lol

Well said!

* Last updated by: dragking on 4/16/2012 @ 11:17 PM *