Bike sits for a few days, the front brake lever is all spongy, put the brake bleeder apparatus on the bleed valve on the Radial Master cylinder, suck out the air, it's where it should be -- couple days later; it's spongy again. History: New brake pads, lines bled, fluid swapped out, topped of, no air in the lines to the calipers, but up top, the Radial Master Cylinder is toast -- or so my analysis is. I think a seal has worn out or something. Anyone else have this or heard of this problem? And, what's the fix, a new Radial Master Cylinder? I'm sure KHI will get a pretty penny for that baby!

New pads, wondering if this is an issue for these bikes?

Master cylinders do need to be serviced and rebuild. Don't make the mistake of going with another oem master though, all oem Nissins and Tokicos (and even the oem Brembos on Yamaha) are far inferior to what the aftermarket offers IMHO.

I am partial to the Brembo 19x18 as I've had it on bikes for a few years. The Brembo 19rcs would be even better for a street bike IMHO. Here's the one I bought this off season

And one of my trustworthy 19x18 units that came off my track bike and went out to be serviced

Hey Doosh Hub, I know how to change brakes, done it many times. Thanks for the advice on getting a non-OEM cylinder. Will have to order one, but, which one? I'm not going to do track on my 14, just ride it...smooth electric machine power, quiet pipes, stealthy...

I took bike to local KHI dealer, they replaced the guts to the master cylinder, bravo, all better now!

DAmnyou! You passed ona perfectly good opportunity to buy some expensive cool brake parts.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/19/2011 @ 2:53 PM *

You were/are trying to sell?

Just a couple half hearted offers but i think i see your point. I don't know when I'll sell the 14 but I doubt if it will be any time soon.

the Rook says:

I don't know when I'll sell the 14 but I doubt if it will be any time soon.

blasphemy! don't you ever talk that way again or I'll wash your mouth out with soap. :)

Man sounds just like mine is right now, Donny what was the cost of the repair.....if you dont mined me asking also was is a rebuild or new?

Thanks in Advance
cjuni

Well, still got the same frigging problem! It was fixed for a few months, back to soft lever and no feel in the brake, no leaks on the floor of brake fluid. So, I don't know WTF?

Sheesh...SORRY...I misread(somehow) which system he was having trouble with.My bad.Forget what I said....it don't apply! Hub's right.Push em home baby!

But here's MY question for any and all.Assuming the master and calipers are okay,WHERE could the fluid go if there is NO LEAK?I mean...you fill it up,brakes are working fine.Then,after a while,they're not.WTHeck?How is that possible without a loss of fluid?He said the mech fixed it.Okay.....then why this deal now?Could a return hole that might be blocked actually show a fluid movement by pushing the pucks back in?IDK.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/2/2011 @ 4:55 PM *

went to dealer that installed and fixed the MC just 8 weeks ago. I told him the same problem is cropping up again, he said he didn't remember me coming in! This is the same asshole that charged me $245.00 for an oil change and 10K mile service, which was just an adjustment of the chain. AND, I media blasted an exhaust pipe for this old SOB at no charge b/c I was using a new media, I'm going to be KING ASSHOLE when I bring the bike in there telling him to FUCKING FIX IT!

When mine sits for awhile the brake lever goes in a lot. I just pump it up before I ride. No problems after that.

Mad

Hey MassZX, you still got that Brembo unit? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4FFHoov_wE

Sounds like you need to learn how to bleed the brakes. Oh and never take your bike to the dealer for service its a rip off and the punks they put on your bike dont know shit!

if you are looking for a new master cylinder try Cory at 402BIKE.COM I bought brand new m\c and front calipers and hoses for 300 and am putting them on my zrx12

Oh and never take your bike to the dealer for service its a rip off and the punks they put on your bike dont know shit!

...and even the good mechs don't hav eenough time to do it right. After I had my rims handed to me scratched by one of the vet mechs at my stealer that was he last time I ever went back for service. they are good for info. They know their shit, they just don't have the time to put it into practice. Ask yourself this, "how often do I have enough time to do my job perfectly?" Unless you are a surgeon, the answer is prolly "not even close" and "never."

Meet Donny and his corral-

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4FFHoov_wE

Hey Don. I had noticed the slightest corrosion around around my stock banjo bolts on the calipers. Prolly on the bleeds too. I am pretty sure I have een a wet spot on the tip of the bleed when pulling the rubber cap off. Prolly not that unusual since the bajos have a metal gasket to hold in the fluid which is quit thin almost like water as you know. The bleeds, well, they prolly bleed a tiny but any time you hit the brake. There is a very light torque spec to close them I think. I wouldn't sweat that unless you are having to add brake fluid. I never need to.

Hey MassZX, you still got that Brembo unit?

..so I'm suggesting stay with OEM unless you can get a Brembo for the same cost or less----or maybe you just want to try something new. JMHO

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/13/2011 @ 11:01 AM *

Hey Buck, please, outline here how to bleed brakes, step by step, ok?

I just want it to work, hold air, it's not leaking oil, so...??? WTF?

Going to the dealer was a choice b/c I wanted them to see the issue/problem, apparently they didn't. However, the same dealer wants to move the new 14R's that are coming in, and he keeps 'bugging' me to buy one, nah, got that new Challenger to pay off first b4 I buy a new bike!

I've changed both master cylinders (brake and clutch) on my bike. and Im telling you guys - full satisfaction and even greater improvement in slowing, feeling, required strength, etc..
My choice was - Accossato, mainly due to gorgeous look, reasonable price and large adjustability. At the same time I also replaced braided lines, Vesrah pads, and flooded it all the best castrol SRF.
now - clutch lever works very smoothly, you dont need to use excessive force, one finger is enough to pull lever and hold for some time - what was impossible using factory cylinders. I remember the time after winter season, each ride in town were a torture for my left forearm and hand... after the change there is so easy to forget that clutch is holding.
And the same with brake lever - I became "one finger braker"
Adjustment works great, and you can really feel it. In 19x19 setup - movement of lever is very small (about half inch), you need to use more power and can be felt that cylinder is more efficient. the manufacturer claims that it is dedicated for a wet tracks. But my favourite is 19x17 - larger lever travel, but more softly and more controllable. there is much easier to lock the wheel or do stoppie.
I realize that not only cylinders had an effect on improvement (additionally my bike has ABS with a lot of rubber pipes) but this adjustability and gentleness is really worth the money I paid.

Which Accossato do you have for the clutch? Does your bike start in gear or does it just shut off like with the OEM master cylinder?

* Last updated by: dragking on 3/4/2013 @ 7:14 AM *

Clutch: PRS MK2 AMAG024 CL (16x15-17)
Brake: PRS MK2 AMAG022 CL (19x17-19)

and there is a little difference in "working" of these pumps (I mean oem vs accossato) in terms of effective lever travel. In case of accossato - longer distince is needed for declutching (almost full pressing required to stop wheel), and the same with clutching it starts faster with transmitting torque. This is noticeable but I dont know is better or worse... a matter of habit.

Thanks I was just curious. It's probably the ratio you're using. Most of the time people don't too much initial bite for the street.

I just put a set of brembos on mine 19rcs brake and 16 rcs clutch, won't be able to try them for a while because of the weather. The clutch has a banjo bolt/pressure switch that splices into the factory wiring to ensure the clutch lever is pulled in before it will start. The brake lever has a micro switch that splices into the factory wires. Not sure how they work but they look and feel nice.

the same with accossatos. I use on both cylinders such screw -

I dont see any difference in working compared to oems solution...

* Last updated by: daniel on 3/5/2013 @ 4:03 AM *