Got this post today. The forum member was given a map that was made using the methods shown above data logging on my bike before Turbo went on. Now is it perfect ??? don't know. Is it better,,,,, his post shown below. For me this makes it all worth it.

Cheers

Thanks again Rick. OK what an absolutely beautiful day to go for a ride. Only bad thing is the police were everywhere.

OK the report. The idle with my ...... map sounds like big block with a cam. The idle on yours by comparision seems smoother but almost lifeless. Putting into gear it again felt smoother and less aggressive than the ...... map but was actually starting to worry where the beast's power went to. Then I twisted the throttle a bit more. All of a sudden I was spinning my back tire at will. Holy cow she isn't dead, she's ALIVE.

Now I'm not on a drag strip so I don't know if this flash shaves any time. Not on a LSR run so have no idea of how it works in that venue but on the street is runs. How is sounds and feels so darn week at idle and spins the tires like never before is a true bewildering mystery to me.

Thanks again,

Just to get us back on track...
untamed:

What I do want to ask is how many runs are needed to get accurate information or is one run enough?

Best answer I can give is to repeat the low idle runs on top of what you have now. Accept the trims if you have a AFR readings of 13.5 Then delete AFR rows as instructed above. From here we can move to the street tuning.

Study your numbers. From what I can see thus far any Numbers that pull more than 20 to 25% look closely at. Use your idle numbers as your guide(after you accept the trims) When Auto tune stops adding and taking away your in the Zone.

Got my answer.

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Romans - Map sent to your inbox.
Once you get the hang of watching the AFR number on the side of the screen whilst watching the cell tracer it becomes a lot easier.

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Romans - Map sent to your inbox.
Once you get the hang of watching the AFR number on the side of the screen whilst watching the cell tracer it becomes a lot easier.

Exactly, remember the job is to make a PCV map that yields a 13.5 AFR on your bike with Ram Air in play. This does not take long once you understand the strengths and weakness of the tool you are using.

Love the Map, looks good. Ok, we move on.

Untamed look closely at the numbers shown below. Do you see the pattern ? You now must understand how forward moving of the throttle position sensor affects what fuel cell you are adjusting. In the pattern you have high and low numbers. Anything outside this range needs your attention and needs to be verified.

Street testing here we come. For this you need a nice secluded area where you can run at high speeds.

First insure your trims are cleared. Now in this test we are going to skip directly to 20% TPS column in your PCV Map.

Now Pull out onto the test area, stab throttle directly to the 20% marker you have on your handlebar while bike is in a high gear 4th or 5th & even 6th. The higher the gear the slower the RPM climb. 02 Sensor takes reading at ten times a second. The higher the gear the better results.

Now Take RPM as high as your dare. Once you have reached your max RPM you want tuned, let off the throttle. Insure your TPS sensor falls down the Zero window. If you touch the throttle, or move it back and forth your map will be corrupted by un burnt fuel. Auto tune will see this and ask you to pull fuel,,,, Don't Do It. Realise what you have done

Where the fuel cell tracer falls is important. Take your time. The job is to make all fuel cells in that 20% column yield a 13.5 AFR Make sense ??? Do you understand what I'm looking for in this test ?

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/14/2015 @ 10:52 AM *

Now Take RPM as high as your dare. Once you have reached your max RPM you want tuned let off the throttle. Insure your TPS sensor falls down the Zero window. If you touch the throttle, or move it back and forth your map will be corrupted by un burnt fuel. Auto tune will see this and ask you to pull fuel,,,, Don't Do It. Realise what you have done

All understood? I do have a question relating to the technique. I have read various contradictory statements on the way you let off the throttle. All agree on immediately going to zero however do you let the engine brake the bike or do you also pull the clutch in straight away and use the brakes. Or does it not matter either way?

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I have read various contradictory statements on the way you let off the throttle.

Interesting. Where are you reading ? Does not matter.

Facts are this, letting off the throttle can only mess up the area's with the AFR table in play. This goes back to the staircasing section I talked about earlier..... But if you roll just enough forward cell tracer can retune the 2% 5%

Later on we are going to turn those areas off completely. All but idle AFR numbers. If you want to skip ahead you can do this now. ?

I know I'm suffering from not doing this hands on but I already have a couple more questions.

look closely at the numbers shown below. Do you see the pattern ?

The only pattern I see is that the fuel cells requiring adjustment are at progressively higher rpm as the throttle opening increases. This makes sense. The rpm is going to climb as the throttle position increases. Is that the pattern your talking about?

The higher the gear the slower the RPM climb. 02 Sensor takes reading at ten times a second. The higher the gear the better results.

So I will be at a disadvantage with a 45t sprocket, hey? ....but I won't have to go as fast to hit peak rpm.

Facts are this, letting off the throttle can only mess up the area's with the AFR table in play

So untamed should have all zeros in his 20% TPS column at this point and hopefully the 15, 10, 5 and %2columns will be untouched by the roll off, right?

It is a quick but steady roll off, not just chop the throttle (I hope). Is it ok to let it bump the rev limiter a few blips so you know you definitely hit peak rpm?

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I know I'm suffering from not doing this hands on but I already have a couple more questions.
look closely at the numbers shown below. Do you see the pattern ?

The only pattern I see is that the fuel cells requiring adjustment are at progressively higher rpm as the throttle opening increases. This makes sense. The rpm is going to climb as the throttle position increases. Is that the pattern your talking about?

Yes and no. Look at his high Numbers to the minus. The number is -20 Now look at his low roughly -10 Now look at his 10% Row My guess at low rpm that was him touching the throttle. Only a guess. The 2% 5% & 10% are the hardest to do because of the fuel dumping with street riding. Which is why I wanted him to understand the higher rows first. The easiest to tune is wide open. This is because cell tracer will never fall down the RPM window anywhere close enough to mess it up.

Facts are this, letting off the throttle can only mess up the area's with the AFR table in play

So untamed should have all zeros in his 20% TPS column at this point and hopefully the 15, 10, 5 and %2 columns will be untouched by the roll off, right?

Yes, this is what you want. but do to street riding he will show trims in those rows. Untamed must manually make those Zeros in his trim file. Or bottom end will be a mess.

Easier to just delete the AFR table in those areas. Make sense ? Cant tune if all Zeros in table.

It is a quick but steady roll off, not just chop the throttle (I hope). Is it ok to let it bump the rev limiter a few blips so you know you definitely hit peak rpm?

If you AFR table has 13.5 in every cell you must chop. If you have removed the numbers in the area we started off with less care is needed.

Example, if you place AFR #'s of 13.5 'in only" the 60 column once redline is reached how you let off the throttle makes no difference,,, provided you don't squeeze up to 60 % Again.

For some people it may be easier to tune one row at a time. But this will take for ever.

Lets wait and see if we are jumping to far ahead. See where untamed is with his study

The only pattern I see is that the fuel cells requiring adjustment are at progressively higher rpm as the throttle opening increases. This makes sense. The rpm is going to climb as the throttle position increases. Is that the pattern your talking about?

Yes and no. Look at his high Numbers to the minus. The number is -20 Now look at his low roughly -10 Now look at his 10% Row My guess at low rpm that was him touching the throttle.

Oh sure, I noticed that, too (but I'd call it an interruption in a pattern or a new pattern rather than a pattern). Yep, looks like the staircase jumps back up a few steps at the %20 column. ...but if you look down at the high rpm end, you see a pretty even staircase (so I'm guessing he higher rpm rows were probably not disrupted).

" Facts are this, letting off the throttle can only mess up the area's with the AFR table in play

So untamed should have all zeros in his 20% TPS column at this point and hopefully the 15, 10, 5 and %2 columns will be untouched by the roll off, right?

Untamed must manually make those Zeros in his trim file. Or bottom end will be a mess.

Easier to just delete the AFR table in those areas. Make sense ? Cant tune if all Zeros in table.
"

Yes, I believe this is making sense. Not bad for me not having ever touched the gadgets yet.

" It is a quick but steady roll off, not just chop the throttle (I hope). Is it ok to let it bump the rev limiter a few blips so you know you definitely hit peak rpm? "

If you AFR table has 13.5 in every cell you must chop. If you have removed the numbers in the area we started off with less care is needed.

So theoretically, if you had all cells but the 100% column mapped to 13.5 AFR, you could then do 186 mph in 5th gear (which would be pretty close to redline I believe) then chop the throttle to say 80-60% and roll off more slowly down to 0% (I can't see just letting the throttle chop to 0% at redline. ouch! yikes!). Your 100% column would remain perfect. The columns below 100 would be messed up but who cares, you'll just 0 those out before accepting the trims because you have everything below 100% mapped already.

Lets wait and see if we are jumping to far ahead. See where untamed is with his study

Agreed. Let's focus on the the guy who's doing this in real life instead of floating away in theoretical-land.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/15/2015 @ 8:07 AM *

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Romans - Map is in your in box

The problem I see is that Dynojet says ride it and trim. This I have learnt first hand makes a crappy map if you don't understand properly how to read what you are accepting.

Also now seeing how "long" it takes getting it right and to not mess up the map I'm building whilst still riding the bike. Am I correct to assume that it's best to put the toggle switch option on the autotune, and run the map you are building when in learning mode and then switch to a backup map for normal riding. Once you have built your new map to load that into the PCV.
I suppose you could turn off auto tune In the menu options if you are riding normally and not learning mode? Or is it better to ride with autotune on so that it still controls fuel whilst you are riding?

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Rick just wanted to publicly say thanks for the map you sent.

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and a public thank you to you for the public thank you on Ricks behalf

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Rick just wanted to publicly say thanks for the map you sent.

Like I posted above, for me you guys are what make all this worth it. Great Hobby.

Sorry for the delay Guys, got working on another zx14 gearing issue,,, now where were we.

The problem I see is that Dynojet says ride it and trim. This I have learnt first hand makes a crappy map if you don't understand properly how to read what you are accepting.

Also now seeing how "long" it takes getting it right and to not mess up the map I'm building whilst still riding the bike. Am I correct to assume that it's best to put the toggle switch option on the autotune, and run the map you are building when in learning mode and then switch to a backup map for normal riding. Once you have built your new map to load that into the PCV.
I suppose you could turn off auto tune In the menu options if you are riding normally and not learning mode? Or is it better to ride with autotune on so that it still controls fuel whilst you are riding?

Had to read that one twice. ,,, how to answer best???? it's all going to depend on your skill level using this tool. The more you play the easier it gets.

Lets come back to that one. Long answer will only confuse. Something tells me the answer is about to show it self as we move forward.

Ok, install the map shown below. You can see I have adjusted manually what I think will quicken Auto tune sensing of the 10% fuel cells later on. That 10% row is a fucker to get exact.

Next I want you to make 2% 5% 10% %15 20% All zero's in your AFR Table. Now stab to the 40% line on the bar. When you let off your fuel cell tracer will fall into a section in the RPM window that is not running closed loop. Make sense ?

Get 40% complete then move to 60% Then to 80% and then onto 100% Lol I know I don't have to say be carefull because I saw trims in reline at 100% earlier. When you send me files do not accept trims. If you do I have no clue what the bike is doing.

Yes you are correct I'm pushing you forward past allot of wasted time but you are ready. The questions you have next will tell me where you're at.

* Last updated by: Romans on 9/17/2015 @ 8:56 AM *

Untamed she is looking Good. Now look closely at the Zeros. This could mean two things. One you have not stayed long enough in that fuel cell to populate a clean AFR. Or it's perfect. How's the bike feel ? Must a big change from where you started.

Ok I accepted all trims and here is what the finished product looks like. Now the next step once your satisfied with what you have created is to go into Power Commander Tools and change your Max Enrichment and Max Enleanment to Tens

This will polish the map that much more without AFR slamming back and forth. When you are happy send me the map.

Untamed she is looking Good. Now look closely at the Zeros. This could mean two things. One you have not stayed long enough in that fuel cell to populate a clean AFR. Or it's perfect. How's the bike feel ? Must a big change from where you started.

Thanks Romans. She is running super smooth I would say more "refined" with plenty power all the way through all the gears. Indeed a big difference from where we started. For those that are following the progress - This is on the road feel and not Dyno results, but then we didn't do this for Dyno numbers.

I thought the same thing re the zero cells and ran again to see if anything changes. Same result so I'm going to assume we are getting closer to perfect. She is going in this week for her 12000km service. With new filters, oil and balanced throttle she should get even better?

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Thanks Romans. She is running super smooth I would say more "refined" with plenty power all the way through all the gears. Indeed a big difference from where we started. For those that are following the progress - This is on the road feel and not Dyno results, but then we didn't do this for Dyno numbers.

Untamed, I'm glad to hear. Congrats, you did this on your own. Map is made on your bike.

Now because you understand the above it must become clear to you that a cookie cutter Flash with fueling never would have worked in your bike. What you want is a flash that does fueling using after the ECU's Piggy back controllers. As you have just learned on your own bike, most bikes have the capability to run much better. Explain this to others and internet BS begins to flow. Clearly your on board sensors could not adjust as is often suggested. Ok, AFR

If you AFR numbers are in the desired range the Dyno Numbers come with it. Can't have one without the other. Whats nice about having your own rolling dyno is the ability to run different AFR's in different RPM ranges.

We know our bike runs 10% throttle at around 70mph. Now in that exact RPM range you are running closed loop all the time at highway speeds. This is great for gas milage. When your buddies are filling up you will take less fuel.

I thought the same thing re the zero cells and ran again to see if anything changes. Same result so I'm going to assume we are getting closer to perfect. She is going in this week for her 12000km service. With new filters, oil and balanced throttle she should get even better?

To "Make Perfect" is not easy as getting the exact throttle position all the time can often be difficult. Also trusting your sensor must also be proven.

Now Im not suggesting you spend Money But,,,,, If you become OCD in your map building(like myself)the POD 300 will display your exact Throttle Position digitally along with your AFR both at the same time. Knowing your bikes AFR is the job. Seeing it has great physiological value. If your AFR #'s ever go off, visually you the first to know. From here you can take appropriate action. With out this visual aid my Turbo Bikes would have gone Boooom !

Pic below shows POD 300. Viewing info is split into four screens. In your case you do not need as much info. Only split screen to show TPS and AFR. Second pic show simple AFR Plug in Gauge. I recommend getting one or the other to make perfect.

Now Im not suggesting you spend Money But,,,,, If you become OCD in your map building(like myself)the POD 300 will display your exact Throttle Position digitally along with your AFR both at the same time. Knowing your bikes AFR is the job. Seeing it has great physiological value. If your AFR #'s ever go off, visually you the first to know. From here you can take appropriate action. With out this visual aid my Turbo Bikes would have gone Boooom !

Funny enough I have already been investigating the option of an AFR gauge. Didn't think of the Dynojet POD 300.

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With new filters, oil and balanced throttle she should get even better?

The T-body sync and fresh air filter might have a pronounced effect on your AFR at idle and small throttle positions. You might be doing a little remapping. I'd be interested to see a fuel table after the sync and filter change.

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Very cool how you're teaching us to do this and a report of how well it works. Does the DynoJet tuning link do as good a job?

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Very cool how you're teaching us to do this and a report of how well it works. Does the DynoJet tuning link do as good a job?

To me It's very cool you guys are now understanding The age old statement "What Works For One May Not Work For Another". Cookie cutter Tunes/Flashes over the internet may help you. In addition they May also Slow you down. Knowing your own bikes AFR is key to it's performance. Learn to use this tool properly and you will need no one. Double Bonus if your bike is in a constate of Mod upgrades.

Tuning your own bike can very Rewarding. Now Flash those ECU's and start over Lol.

Funny enough I have already been investigating the option of an AFR gauge. Didn't think of the Dynojet POD 300.

Curious as to your progress. How are you making out ?

Funny enough I have already been investigating the option of an AFR gauge. Didn't think of the Dynojet POD 300.
Curious as to your progress. How are you making out ?

Hey Romans,
Ordered the POD 300 from the local Dynojet agent in South Africa. Should hopefully be here by next week.
Changed air filter, oil and plugs, old ones looked very good still. Throttle didn't need any balancing.
One change that he did make was move the "static earth" on the PCV to the ECU and this now gives a better idle and also no more low throttle stutter.
Bike is running really well, last breakfast run even my mates on the exact same bike can't keep up.
As soon as the POD 300 is fitted I will be at it again, and will feed back to you.
Cheers

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Hey Romans,
Ordered the POD 300 from the local Dynojet agent in South Africa. Should hopefully be here by next week.

Now were talking. Small word of advice, Don't start adjusting the Low/Mid/High fueling off the POD unless your drag racing or running the mile. For those applications this is great feature. If you do,,,, talk about a Head Fuck when you go into Trims UGH ! Brain Will Hurt and your map will be a Mess. That feature is amazing when Auto Tune is turned Off and your existing map is very close. Handlebar Switch is a must if you play here.

One change that he did make was move the "static earth" on the PCV to the ECU and this now gives a better idle and also no more low throttle stutter.

Interesting, I always go direct to batt.

Bike is running really well, last breakfast run even my mates on the exact same bike can't keep up.

Now all the study you have gone through has just paid off. Also time for you to make some beer money, especially if your buddies are running cookie cutter Flashes or Vendor fuel maps. They will have no chance. Congrats Untamed. Well Done.

I Hope You Had Some Fun Learning Along The way, Here Kitty Kitty, its play time.

Now were talking. Small word of advice, Don't start adjusting the Low/Mid/High fueling off the POD unless your drag racing or running the mile. For those applications this is great feature. If you do,,,, talk about a Head Fuck when you go into Trims UGH ! Brain Will Hurt and your map will be a Mess. That feature is amazing when Auto Tune is turned Off and your existing map is very close. Handlebar Switch is a must if you play here.

Here I will go slowly and rather observe and understand better than just jump in and "do" I will admit I have little knowledge of what exactly it can do for me besides being able to see what AFR is and data log. Here I'm sure I will have plenty questions for you.

As for the current map I'm seeing much more zero's and lower trim numbers. So I think I must be on the right track. I will ride a few more kms's to get better readings throughout the TPS and rpm range and confirm these once the POD 300 is on and I can actually see it.

* Last updated by: untamed on 10/11/2015 @ 11:41 AM *

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Finally it arrived.
Any tips/hints when installing it and setting it up?

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