I'm sorry, I was bored and the forum has been a little slow lately!

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/10/2009 @ 3:01 PM *

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Let me help sure but not as well as no flies thats for damn sure

...and Ivan, of course. Have to mention his name.

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Works like putting on a rubber. If you don't use it, works like all natural and you have all that at the tip of your fingers. You might as well spool in a kleenex.

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Kruz; I resemble that remark!

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At the risk of beating a dead horse, I can say unequivocally, that Ivan's TRE's have given, by far, the most bang for the buck out of anything I have purchased for my bikes. They're simple, dirt cheap and always worked exactly as advertised.

Nuff said!

Kruz

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Not enough said...

At the risk of beating you to the sneeze bar, I can say unequivocally, that Eye Van's TREEasy now; have given me a slower bike, by far! The most embarrassing thing for the buck, is wager you're running one, are the bleach ear bums betting against you, is pull my bill fold out of anything I have purchased resembling a tree stump for my bike. They're simple, dirt tea dirt tea cheap way of staying out of the 8 second bracket class is exactly as advertised.

Nuff said yer ass!

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Hub mumbled:

I can say unequivocally, that Eye Van's TREEasy now; have given me a slower bike, by far!

So you did install a TRE and tried it out first hand? There are three models of the TRE for the ZX-14 that I know of, which one did you try Hub and what year motorcycle did you try it on? Give me some specifics hear! My '06 had way more low end with the TRE008 and flies in with topend unaffected. With flies out and the TRE006a on there it cut out the decel popping. In both cases the TRE's worked s advertised, improved performance and cost less than dinner for two. Don't know anything about the Gipro, never tried it. Let's start another Ivan bashing thread, whatdya say Hub?

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/11/2009 @ 9:17 AM *

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I'll play along...

Here's Brock's take on it:

http://www.bikeland.org/story.php?storyID=24810

* Last updated by: masszx14 on 9/11/2009 @ 9:38 AM *

I'm officially tre-less now, Dave said to pull the nuetral tre off for the turbo. I'm gonna miss Ivans set-up.....but it will be cool having my gear indicator back

Give me some specifics hear! My '06 had way more low end with the TRE008 and flies in with topend unaffected.

One is a popper stopper. On is a sub divider. You wired the sub divider that raised the subs in the limp mode. Has nothing to do with a tre. It's like removing ground, but there is still a resistance to the other two wires traveling eventually to another ground as to the fuel pump and spark sticks still being grounded.

With flies out and the TRE006a on there it cut out the decel popping.

Like you said, Kruz; follow the steps. I'm going to step in shit and say I have no clue, but it sure sounds like what I think might be something I read on some software screen or maybe RidgeRacer's work? I'm going to guess there is this high/low cut map or the ON/OFF = Analog/... and if that wire does not see the .0 to 5.0v; consider it out of loop, it means backup to... /Digital.

Therefore, I say the high/low cut is the pop is fuel cut to the high cut? Screw me up with the opposites of the trim rich/lean. I may have that in reverse order ~ follow their why of thinking. Is high the lean and low the rich or vice verse. Now, you see the confusion how to think liquid or electrically like the GPS gears?

In both cases the TRE's worked s advertised, improved performance and cost less than dinner for two.

R Bee'z? Eye Hop? Whoop Hers? Cost her more for the Astroglide, IUD, Doo Dee Due her poise pad. You spank in a cleen next, you never made it to second base. I got your performance!

Don't know anything about the Gipro, never tried it. Let's start another Ivan bashing thread, whatdya say Hub?

I thought that's why bg kept it going? Where ya been?

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/11/2009 @ 10:18 PM *

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Brock said, in the article, that removing the flies and installing a TRE is redundant. But Ivan is selling a TRE which requires their removal for his map.

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Code 32 - If subthrottle sensor fails like, unable to send a signal with a 'usable range' there has to be a wire short, a wire open, or a variable that now, "the actuator locks subthrottle valve at full open position."

Code 25 - If no signal coming out of the sensor, a short in the wire, or wire open is a dangling a connector; "the ECU sets the top (6) gear position."

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Position your eyes on c32. This is where Brock means the redundant. It really does not lock open. It opens faster. That's your bump in low end grunt exposed. Big difference removing flies and shorting out a c32.

Position your ass on the seat my c25 hack is package. Whannnnnnnn, I want my gear is "position" numb ears hearing that shit out the road apple my dead whore sis bang-bang tat tummy you du..... Me.

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Oh MAN! Look at my clustizz fucker is all fucked up now! I feel that, whoo-Bahhhh Due-Bahhh at my throttle arm. Arm me get inn another hack kiss whack kiss on the other wire apply. Smooth is my move is, I can't tell a like. Lie threw my false teefout, I say I'm on the fly is zip them all up. My cupiss is run iz over ith a cup pull of toggledoubt you'll go, "Oh that's cool." Then sit back and drool, the "8-Second Club" be hanging no tre up for christmas......

Lights!

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Pro Tree, no tree, no fee you be eightinn it you move from stock. Brockisstockingearama! I still have my same Christmas brakes on! Second Yearin a row. No rubbing the hubbing here.

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Brock said, in the article, that removing the flies and installing a TRE is redundant. But Ivan is selling a TRE which requires their removal for his map.

Sharkey what Brock means is removing the flies and installing A TRE08 for a faster fly opening rate makes no sense. You know....if they are removed, how can they open faster? Are you looking at Ivan's TRE006A(N) for the no fuel cut ? This is the one he recommends for the NO backfire and track use. Ivan has maps that he has tuned for both the TRE08 & 006A. The TRE006A requires you to remove flies. I hope this helps. I run the TRE006A, with his Maps. These things are all plug and play. My 2 cents. It's your bike, play with it, easy to switch back. Lots to learn and it's fun doing it. Cheers.

Lots to learn and it's fun doing it.

The "Inn2ItchINN" or some unexplained gut feeling, was the first time I heard that 'retard' event. Ivan made the choice to leave the 14 website. I sure do remember telling him, "Eyes Gonna GETcha" with the abstract:

1. Learned a lot from Ivan.
2. Coo-Doughs go out to the 270ohm'ears. You know who you are.
3. The test crash brought it all home.
4. Datta/Compton motivators/actuators case is closed.
5. Juicey Loose Sea Look See; was glue that retard right up the anal track is track that advance going no wear is where out my toggles...
6. Is my lock. Where to next is; Wear Be Ivan?
7. Cum 11, someone call the, ClownTownRetard!
8. Is Kruzy'8 8-8-555-5555th "Gearetard,Eye Van, "Speaking.' 'No, dis is not the 8-Second'Club!"
9. 9-9-Curley, Larry, Moe He Ghay INN; Bluffullow AppleBobber Smoke Signal CAN Comm back... Brake'her, Break'Ear!
10. No clock and no where in sight?

Oh, Shucksays, BrockINNFlockInnLockin'UP!

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Hi Romans,
Yea that kinda the way I was reading it. Yes, I was looking to eliminate the no fuel cut. I don't have a problem with low end acceleration on my 08. I do dislike intensely the little bump when fuel resumes just as you're leaning into a corner. I replaced my headders with 06 headders to eliminate the Cat. And a PCIII to remap for the changes. Got additional power from those mods but It seemed to accentuate the bump. I have great wrist twist control, but That can't overcome that glitch. Pisses me off!
Is the TRE006a for fuel control only, not faster fly opening, and that is why removal of flies is called for? I guess that makes the timing retard aspect include the fuel control?
I don't really want to remove the flies. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" The 08 flies open up plenty fast! But I've heard there is no way to cure the throttle on bump with mapping. If removing the flies is the only way to cure the problem I might consider doing it. If it eliminates the gear selection indicator I might not.
My original decision to put on some slip ons for a better look/sound has set off a chain reaction. It reminds me of "The old lady who swallowed the fly."

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Since I am still running this bike in testing mode. The "N" diz near. You are missing some shit. One is better than the other. But to get both... Datta is the Comp pull lay shuns are tons of problems. You get it right, the N'd all be all, "Da kind."

Kind of hard to explain. I am going back out on the road; looking for bent rub beer boats. Dis time, I am shooting the z-bomb hackiss package.

Piss inn my 100% cotton briefs I am. WATT do you think of dat!

You guys!

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I've toggled enough flips and cable rips. The GPS hack to the wires are a short term backup till you repair said code. Chewbacka, watch your backa. I come gunning for you all stock mode. No 8-second bike is your tre stuck in the mud.

You limp. I'll be leaving you, 'short'ly. In less than 7 seconds - Give or take.

"Does it really work?"

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My original decision to put on some slip ons for a better look/sound has set off a chain reaction. It reminds me of "The old lady who swallowed the fly."

Sharky thanks for the laugh. This is how I came to the form world and learned how to type on this silly key board.(still not that good) Twin Muzzy pipes ehh (been there done that got the tee shirt)... Now in comes the back fire at 3500 RPM.... I tried all the tricks, and nothing I did stopped the chain reaction that you describe so I went on a mad hunt to stop the explosion that was happening in my NEW pipes. TRE 006A FIXED ALL. This took me a year to get the courage up to install because of all the negative feed back related to the subject, but it was the best move I ever made. I know Hub and some of the guys or all will say leave the flies in & stay stock, But my advice is to take them out and install a TRE006A have it tuned and try it for your self. It is easy to switch back. The guys here will be coming for me now I must go hide...lol Sharky I was You. Hub go easy on me lol

I must go hide...lol Sharky I was You. Hub go easy on me lol

I'll get back to you, Roms.

Sharkey, do one thing at a time. Start with what Romansaid. See if that works out for you.

Romans, WATT is the dash reading? Constant green or locked (6)? I have no clue which is which.

06 = LG?
06 = G/R?

This way, I can tell which wire does watt on your end. I know what's going on on my end. If we agree on that wire... ????

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Romans,
I will take that under advisement. LOL
But I had one question maybe you can answer from personal knowledge. See opinions are plentiful but I try to filter out all but personal knowledge.
I don't mind the exhaust backing off noise. Actually I kind of like it. My big problem is the rude bump of acceleration when you roll on the throttle after releasing it. So, does the TRE006a do what the name implies? "Timing Retard Eliminator." That means negating the command for the secondary flies to delay (read: Retard) opening, does it not? To eliminate the fuel shut off command isn't what TRE implies. If the 006a doesn't eliminate the retard of the fly opening why is it called a TRE? If it does, why do you need to remove the flys?

Does your gear indicator read 6 all the time? If it does that would indicate that the device has created a "go to" command making the Retard function think the bike is in 6th gear already and leave the secondaries open.
I'll proceed with the 006a if it cures my throttle problem, but not if it mucks up my gear indication. Of course there are aftermarket gear indicators....
I think I'm about to swallowed the dog to catch the cat....

* Last updated by: Sharkey on 9/13/2009 @ 9:27 PM *

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ohhhhhhhhhh you dumb flockers . wonder why your bikes have throttle issues

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 9/14/2009 @ 6:13 AM *

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So, does the TRE006a do what the name implies?

No.

"Timing Retard Eliminator." That means negating the command for the secondary flies to delay (read: Retard) opening, does it not?

Initially, no. Discovered in 1999 or there about, someone knew to short a wire to move the air duct opening of the Hayabusa. The 14's subs are the same equivalent as Suz's air duct gates opening sooner at the air cleaner cage.

To eliminate the fuel shut off command isn't what TRE implies.

You mean to increase fuel to eliminate the pop. Is that what you mean? Ignition does not change. A safe map takes over where mileage goes down, fuel increases so the pop is set on a, high cut' or the 'low cut.' I'm not sure how they call the cuts as to whom be the richer? Bottom line, the fuel trim has changed to a, 'backup map.' There are many preset maps that come in to play with all the code sets. So one runs in an analog like an 02 running or a preset when the analog is no longer in-line or has lost a signal.

If the 006a doesn't eliminate the retard of the fly opening why is it called a TRE?

Because someone found out if you hack two wires off the GPS, there are backup fuel maps that take over. The performance feels like there is a gain, set of the pants. But, if you can feel the change within seconds, you'll feel the analog has the better all around feel.

If it does, why do you need to remove the flys?

When I was curious about the tre, I hacked into both GPS wires. What happens is the subs are closed down. They won't open as normal. The limp is ON! You crawl to a dealer. On the other hand, say you remove the flies; eliminate the sub's lag from opening. You now have the backup map in play. That is why, one wire used for the tre setup with subs will not work.

You need Ivan to come in here and explain how it all started. The coin, tre was made up buy Ivan, is the assumption. I've verified that both wires off the GPS do not retard timing. 9 years and everyone took Ivan's word for it? Red line, full HP and the bike retards? Simply ~ Insane!
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At another website, I have a question going on right now; where this guy says to crack the oil filter and purge it to remove the code that the tre made. I mean, that's what you hear out there. I am not surprised and I do not think anyone will touch that thread [nope, no one yet-Just looked] since I warned > it was open book.

Here is one post explaining how to eliminate the code:

Post that was too funny to Paz UP:

If its on steady its your oil pump. Nothing wrong with it but this bike tends to turn on that light for 2 reasons, 1 is when the oil filter was put on too tight or 2 when the bike has been laid done on its side and an air bubble got in the pump.
Do this, turn on the bike and loosen the oil filter until some oil starts to flow out, then turn off bike tighten oil filter "CORRECTLY" (no too tight) and try again and see if the light is still on.
I have seen this happen on 3 gsxr`s 600 including mine

Starter's Post:

The only thing we have done was put an TRE on it.

My post: Watt was the last thing you did to the bike messing with the electrics. Did we cut into the GPS?

FSM= Factory service manual.
Code = 3wV.
TRE = Timing Retard Elixir @ 186mph the GPS takes a shit at that moment

Askiss yourself if the timing retards and what would happen at 12,000RPMmmmmmmmm Use better walk it, talk it out of the FSM or you will ear it from me so help YOU!

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/14/2009 @ 7:54 AM *

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ohhhhhhhhhh you dumb flockers . wonder why your bikes have throttle issues

Haha, this coming from the man who's bike was backfiring so badly the last time we rode together I was embarassed for ya!

Haha,

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 9/14/2009 @ 9:12 AM *

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