Lol... @Rook... We'll see how fast it is.....

Looks like you'll need to take off all of the fairings except the for the top so yuo can gain access to the plugs (see step 2. of Top Fairing for location of plugs)

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=0083B460-D56B-84E2-1A6649F299C86EE7

Here are the directions from the SM

•Remove the inner covers (see Inner Cover Removal in •the Frame chapter). <<maybe you don't need to take off all fairings but refer to my tutorial for the location of the proper light and also removal of the ram air covers.

Disconnect the headlight connector [A]. The conector at the back of the light, my tutorial shows how those come off.

•Turn the headlight bulb [A] counterclockwise and pull out the bulb from the headlight. They mean turn the black female connector that you just removed the male connector from.

NOTE
When handling the quartz-halogen bulb, never touch the glass portion with bare hands. Always use a clean cloth. Oil contamination from hands or dirty rags can reduce bulb life or cause the bulb to explode.

Clean off any contamination that inadvertently gets on the bulb with alcohol or soap and water solution.

•Replace the headlight bulb. •Fit the projections [A] of the bulb in the hollows [B] of the
headlight.

•Turn the headlight bulb clockwise.

•Connect the headlight connector.

•After installation, adjust the headlight aim (see Headlight Aiming Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).

Other Bulbs: Repeat the above steps.

This is NOT a city light, is it. Removal of those is a bit different than a headlight high or low beam.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/11/2015 @ 11:02 AM *

Updated pic. A lot more to do before Spring.... Thanks Rook for the help!

Sure.

BTW, check the sticker on the RH side of the steering neck to be sure that's an 08. If it's 06-07, we have to pull flies and get a PC.....or flash so they open quicker. The bike must have been painted but the flat black formans were an 06-07 trademark. They might have been switched in along with the paint job.

If it's 06-07, we also have to make sure the frame is torqued properly...there was a recall to do that.

Rook, thanks! Okay I'll take a look at it this evening when I get home. I hope it's an 08 b/c that's what I have on the title!!! lol

Rook, what you think. Back was fine.

The lever and perch do not look bent so a spot of paint will fix that. Mirror can be sanded and painted. I know just the right rattle can color for that.

There goes the pretty paint job. Would be a lot of work to try to repair those cracks and I see a couple chunks missing. Could be done but would be hours of fiberglassing and sanding and then repainting everything. I believe fairings can be rattle canned quite nicely with some careful polishing but it would be many hours and I wouldn't try it until it gets warmer unless you have a heated indoor facility. Looks like a scrape on the clutch cover. I have the OEM touch up paint for the frame color. I suppose you must have front fender damage.

Forks look untouched. Brake pedal is ok. Exhaust is ok. Amazing nothing touched on the back. Perhaps because the forward momentum kept the rear end lifted off the ground.

Simplest solution would be to go with all black. Paint the other side to match.

Obviously you're ok? NOt too banged up are ya?

Nice bike, love the color. I'm with Rook, I'm pretty mellow on the straights, I just don't slow down for the corners. Way fewer tickets that way, same level of fun.

Mad

WOW!Your beautiful bird...WTF happened?Take a turn too quick and hit the rear brake?Geez...sorry about this...wet cement?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/19/2015 @ 9:36 AM *

salt, sand, ice, water. We got it all up here this time of year.

@Rook, yea I'm fine... I wasn't going too fast, I was able to get control of her for a sec; but hit another lil patch of snow close to curb then dropped her... Hopefully I should have new fairings by the beginning of next month. I'll contact you for the info on the paint....

Madd... Thanks!

Grn... Yes, we have everything like Rook said... I'm not in FL anymore!!! lol

Hopefully I should have new fairings by the beginning of next month.

i hope insurance came in handy for this.

Covered for liability, only? That's how I go. Hurts when you have a mishap but prolly cheaper in the long run if you don't crash much. IDK, it's paid off for me. I've only had garage tip overs. I don't think a bike over 3 years old is worth covering any more than the law requires.

...or did you go for a little free-ride? ...with the bike insurance suspended for winter? I've done that a couple times.

No, just cash directly from my pocket insurance..... lol Yea, I don't plan on getting any expensive insurance.. I bought it out right, so it's mine. Don't plan on crashing too much! lol..

Yea, decided to just go for a quick spin and good ol Wisconsin mother nature had something to say about it. But hopefully I will have her just like new in a few weeks or so.

Hope we can link up in the near future and I bug you for all your knowledge.. Plan on purchasing a front stand as well so I can do an oil change.

Oh you can count on that, Fred. LOL I doubt it's much of a concern right now but we have to still get that headlight changed! You can do an oil change with nothing but the sidestand. In fact, that's the best way to do it, IMO. If you use a rear stand, the oil has a few more inches to fall and it splashes out of the pan more. A front stand will lift the oil pan even a bit higher. A front stand is a good thing to have along with a rear but for oil and filter changes, all you need is new oil and a filter, maybe a new drain plug gasket, a filter wrench and a 14mm wrench. It is wise to use a torque wrench is to use to tighten the plug. You don't want to overdo that one. I always go under spec on my drain plug and it has never come loose. I have an oil change tutorial at the top of HOW-Tos section. Sticky: "Rooks Tutorials."

Rook... Yea I was just going to purchase the front stand b/c I have the rear stand already. Just thought it would make it easier to do the oil change with it. Hopefully shouldn't be too much different than changing the oil on a car.. I do not have a torque wrench, but I don't plan on tightening it to much. Enough so it won't rattle loose!!! lol..

Yea, still need to change out the headlights. I plan on taking all the front fairing off tomorrow after my son soccer game.

Welcome to the forum. Good info here to help you get that bike back together before Spring gets here. In fact, I'm wondering if it's been down before you bought it? I know I've seen that paint scheme before on an ebay kit. May be the way to go again for a cheap fix

Hell.... I was thinking the same exact thing... I was able to find the exact fairings online... Weren't that expensive, so I purchased them.. Quick fix!! It will put me back in action.

Just wondering if I should I should also purchase heat shields for the fairings, or are they already heat protected when they are made...

Rook... got the fairing removed and changed the lights.... Just waiting on the new fairings to get here.. Think it would be a good idea to add heat shields as well to the new fairings?

Just wondering if I should I should also purchase heat shields for the fairings, or are they already heat protected when they are made...

No, I wouldn't. I took all my OEM heat shields off, even the foam pads. The only heat shields I have now are the foil ones on the backs of the formans. I doubt that is needed but it's glued on soI leave it. If you have the time, you could remove the heat shield wing across the top back of the radiator and also the triple tree shield and the rubber heat shields on the air box and motor. Loose the chain guard and the passenger footpegs. LOL The wife might not be to excited about hopping on the back of the bike now!

The only part of my fairings that have ever been affected by heat is the right lower where it skims the aftermarket pipe. The edge has melted away a bit but no big deal. I could have trimmed it back a 16th inch and it would have been just the same.

Rook... Thanks!!! I kind of fiqured that, but I just wanted to make sure. Yea, I plan on removing the chain guard. I am planning on replacing the chain and sprokets just because. Just want to feel comfortable knowing I have good parts on her... Any recommendation?

Wife really doesn't ride with me. Tried with her before on my other bikes, but she only lasted for about 30 seconds then wanted me to turn around.. Lol... (Bad experiences previous to being with me)

I also purchased new tread (front/rear)... Know anymore that can mount and balance them? Checked a few places around here, they're charging me 140-150....

EK ZZZ chain. Don't get the ZZZ with the fancy side plates, get the regular one. The fancy one is a little heavier. Vortex aluminum rear sprocket. Only go with steel for the front sprocket. I'm not sure there is a clear favorite for front but some like OEM for noise reduction. OEM is heavy though. Supersprox has lightening holes so i figured it would be a little lighter. If you don't want to have to change rear sprocket again for a longer time, stick with steel.

I have about 25000 miles on my chain/sprockets. The chain is almost like new. The rear sprocket was changed again (just cuz I wanted something different and the old one was starting to look a little worn). Here's the deal, the front is definitely showing signs of ware too. So I'm saying, I coulda changed both sprockets after about 20,000 miles. The ZZZ never needed adjusting until I changed the rear sprocket and then I was adjusting every 500 miles about 6-7 times! Now it has worn in.

The front sprocket isn't a piece of cake to change. It can be a problem to remove the nut. It sometimes requires a impact. I got mine off easily with a 24" bar.

You will need 530 pitch (check that to sure) chain and both sprockets. Consider if you feel comfortable going to a lighter pitch like they use on a liter bike. It would save a lot of rotating mass (couple-3 lbs, I think). Could be risky but I've heard of a few people doing it. You could go with shorter gearing if you want. I suggest a 45t rear instead of the stock 41T. You'll still be able to do at least 170 mph. Be sure you get the right length of chain. I have a chain cutter/riveter we could use.

You could remove the dampers in your sprocket cover while it's off. That's 3/4 lb gone.

I have a tutorial on chain and sprocket removal.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EB2E6BDC-D56B-84E2-1D17B62DAE7BB066

Great looking bike!
To bad I'm from the GreenBay area or I'd ride for sure

Well, I'll have to give you a yell when next I pass through. I'm from Iron Mountain. Milwaukee transplant for the last 25 years.