Okay...thanks hag.Now...about that 'pulse' of 'extree juice'.....

Now...about that 'pulse' of 'extree juice'.....

Ah... that. That, is what goes into my drinkee cup before I pour the Diet Pepsi in.

Electrically, your (our) Ninjee convert the excess electricity into thermal energy (heat). It is for this reason that Ninjee rec/regs have heat sink fins and are fastened to somewhat substantial metal locations.

Drinkee-wise, my liver converts the excess to sugar whilst my brain revels in the misguided notion that my lab technicians will spontaneously convert from brain-dead nimrods to metallographic preparation professionals.

But I digress...

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To think...all this precious and needed info over a simple short;)LOL

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/15/2015 @ 8:53 PM *

hagrid said

If my Optimate 6 is incompatible with lithium architecture then how can I expect Ninjee's charging system to accommodate it?

Oh the Ninjee's charging system can accommodate a lithium battery alright ... or should I say over-accommodate

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Question...IF there was a short to ground somewhere else besides the negative terminal,say,up the line against the frame or something.

Romes used his head both in the installation part and call to help.

Only one way that cable goes on. Either it arcs like a welding rod, or she makes the ECU and clock spike to ground with a mini-arc.

would it immediately cause the stator to increase it's output?

No. As hag stated, it's linear and is preset with so many coil windings, so therefore it's fixed is the output at so many rpm. The stator is independent, the vo/reg is independent, the battery is independent. The stator makes more voltage when spun faster. So the diagnosis is; it Can't be the stator causing the damage. Can't be the vo/reg if the threshold is fixed @ 14v... Has to be the battery.

...and the short was long enough,could it be possible the overcharging stator(trying to keep up with the 'loss' at the short)

No. Only way it overcharges is if the vo/reg took a shit... now the 16v passes right thru the vo/reg; no DTT is activated to monitor this threshold of 14v; the battery is being pumped with a constant 16v; heats the chemical reaction to a boil; the heat inside implodes from within; melts from the inside; expands the case if not melts it from the outside; breaks contact [internally] or the chem reaction stops. So to determine who is the cause: install another battery and watch the volts at the dash or with a volt meter across the battery posts.

would create a high voltage condition IF the short was to stop momentarily?Running the overcharge into the battery?IDK...just wondering.

Most of the time you can follow the short via the smoke coming out of a wire/battery/component if we use this smoke example.

Or does the stator ONLY put out a certain amount no matter what?

Correct. Puts out a fixed voltage. This would be something like a 32 amp hour stator for a harley. At the bottom of the case, there is the plug that holds 2 wires. But that wire is really one long wire and you are looking at both ends out of the engine case hole. One side or say a horseshoe that holds those posts and copper wire, are wrapped around those cores, the wire then wraps around the next post and so on. So the sweep is 16v on one half, 16v on the other, a constant 16v is fixed at so many rpm is all she wrote. It's making voltage on up the linear move is the magnetic rotor causing the molecules to vibrate, which makes heat, which lives in a magnetic field, which sends AC up the wire and for every action is it returns back to the other wire so how do you capture 16v?

This is where the vo/reg 'captures that one for every action.' By using a one way diode, you now converted AC to DC. The crank makes that 180 degree sweep past that one horseshoe side and now see how the other 16v is captured again is one full sweep of 16v captured twice.

I now pull out my trusty DTT abstract and watch the flipflop happen as I see it. The diode part is that one way switch is the converter to DC. I now use a capacitor to fill this THRESHOLD. I then use a resistor to squeeze down the voltage or use this heatsink to bring down the volt input to 14v. The Threshold is met or 2v [for argument sake] fills the capacitor, it TRIGGERS; and that 2v is DISCHARGED to ground. The event happens that quick is how the battery becomes stable... stable meaning, the chemical reaction is a simmering, meaning, no bubbles or it expands inside the material and tears it up. That's the chemical reaction in play part, sans the correct ohm's law to be applied.

Lose one of the 3 systems the theory goes like this:

1. Stator Output... has to show a fixed voltage at a sustained 2k rpm and that's all she wrote out of that coil winding. Since it's one wire wrapped around a core, she melts along that route, it's tits up, baby.

2. Vo/Reg... has that monitor going in the flipflop. This sends excess to ground. Volts find the shortest path and within that box is a path for full AC to the battery = 16v of boiling a chemical at full AC load to ground.

3. Battery... has that holding power of separating A(+) and C(-) to DC. She dies if the stator takes a shit and this now is called a 'total loss system.' She dies if the vo/reg takes a shit is full AC output into the battery and make no mistake about the 3 boys that create current is a magnetic field, heat, and a chemical reaction.

So to find cause of the lith melting down, might this explain things in the short...(pun you tend to)

A. Can't be Romes = The mini spark happened or you couldn't even start the bike with the starter motor, but here it is on the road for how long? This leave no doubt it's not the installer.

B. Stator = Sure looks like the stator is fine if say the other system on the list failed. It's not the stator if output can melt that puppy.

C. Vo/Reg = I'd check this guy out by simply installing the old battery, start it and watch the dash spike past 14.7v or not. This now eliminates 2 systems out of the loop for a cause to blow out the battery.

D. Battery = With ABC out of the loop this boils down to the battery... (pun it). I'm no EE, but [internally] I'd wire my posts direct to a yeah that's it, a fuse inside the battery so this does not occur. With all the batteries out in the field, seems like a manufacturing flaw of the assembly, right? Same components are being used, same materials, same machine assembly, but are we seeing a human at the assembly part of this? Too weak a soldering job? Boeing uses lith batteries and wasn't there one smoking out the cabin a few months ago or was that a few years ago...

... and speaking about cabins, that battery case bleeds paper towels soaked in vinegar and keep wiping. Finish off with a solution of baking soda (do not use too much) and water to neutralize both acids.

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It is for this reason that Ninjee rec/regs have heat sink fins and are fastened to somewhat substantial metal locations.

Mine's only fastened to half as substantial of a location now. Guess I'll keep my fingers crossed.

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Hmmm. I didn't realize how fussy these lithium batteries are. I think I'm going back to a stock battery. Oh well I now have a shorai battery and shorai battery charger for sale if anybody is feeling lucky.

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Always nice to read about these things after you install a new battery...

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I warned someone recently. DOn't worry about it unless you start digging up threads that are a lot more recent than this one. I'm sure they do ongoing r&d.

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