I've missed shifts with the HM at high rpm but I'm pretty sure it was below redline. i have assumed it was mostly due to shifting too slow or not high enough with my foot. To my line of thinking, a slow turning motor is a lot mor forgiving of a lazy shift than a fast turning engine. The kill time is what it is but there's no denying that the teeth of the gears are passing each other up a lot faster at high rpm than low rpm. The 65 mls might not be a large enough window of time to permit the gears to mesh reliably. They kick the shift backward to the previous gear or somehoe stick between gears in false Nuetral. By contrast, I don't ever think I've missed a quichshift at lower rpm. It seems to work easier when the motor is turning slower.

My knowledge of how the gearbox and clutch work is very limited but that's how I envision the squickhift missing phenominon. Using the clutch is much slower. Load is off the engine for 3 or 4 x longer and there is simply more time for things to right themselves if gears don't quit line up. On top that, the clutch allows the gears mesh perfectly in a gradual way. The quickshifter wants the gears engaged right now!

My Gen1 does not have TC or factory presets for TC. I'm not saying that the Gen 2 wich does have TC might not be reacting to the quickshifter as you explained but I'm saying my Gen1 does it too. It's not all the time but if a quickshift is going to miss, it's going to be a high rpm shift. Of cours, if I really have a lazy toe, I guess I could get it to miss shift at any rpm.

I was planning to try GP shift pattern to help eliminate shift missing. I am pretty sure it will improve the situation a lot but it is not something that can be done with the HM lever....unless you can get the HM lever onto a rearset and use a shift rod with heim joints to reverse the shift pattern.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/31/2015 @ 10:01 PM *

Extrapolator said:

skewed - I'd be very grateful if you would report back again on the results after you replace the tire.

As the old saying goes, "When it rains, it pours". I live in an area where there is no city water and over the weekend my well-system broke down. That's probably going to cost me a few hundred bucks. My cash flow is running low, so It will be a few weeks before I can replace the tire--unless I get real lucky with the cost of the well-system repair, but I will report back as soon as I replace the Shinko Hookup.

I've had phantom shifts from 2nd to 3rd. I wear thick Daytona boots with the inner boot, so I have a hard time feeling the shifter peg. There have been times when accelerating hard in 2nd, I would hit the phantom gear. No gear indication and the bike acts like it bouncing off the rev limiter as I'm full on throttle. The sensitivity may be set to soft. Having my toe under the shifter and accelerating fast is causing me to put a little pressure on the shifter. So I'm having to keep my boot to the side when accelerating. I need to reverse the shift pattern or adjust the sensitivity.

I need to reverse the shift pattern or adjust the sensitivity.

I've tried adjusting the sensitivity way low and way high. After a few tests, it did not seem to be the main issue. It might be a refinement that would perfect the shifting after the shift missing problem was overcome. I think the shift missing is caused by clicking the pedal UP too slow or not high enough. Whether it's too slow or not high enough, the result is the same -- the shift star is not getting to the next notch within the selected kill time. Ignition cut ends, shift star not engaged, shift kicks back to previous gear or else sticks between in the phantom gear/false neutral. There is no clutch/throttle modulation to ease the shift star tooth and the catch into place like there would be with clutch shifting. Full power is instant on/off.

The kill time is probably more important than the sensitivity but none of us want to adjust the kill time longer. I think the key to never missing a shift is you have to move that toe fast as the kill time you selected. With thick boots and stiff leathers on tucked down, the upward shift is impeded all the more. Switching to GP shift should be the biggest improvement you can make to enable you to move the pedal full throw as fast you need to. If the mechanical parts between the shift pedal and the gears are capable of moving that fast, it should clear up the issue. That's one man's opinion albeit one man with little understanding of how a gearbox works.

The thing that sucks is that I HATE to test this thing knowing I might get a big zinnnnnnnnng! It works best with normal pants and sneakers, not leathers and boots. That tells me doing something else to make the shift easier on my ankle and leg will improve it more.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/2/2015 @ 7:21 AM *

Only had mine out twice so far and one mishap but it was my
Fault as I didn't pull hard enough on lever..
Otherwise she hits perfect every time no hiccup what's so ever..
I only ride in my SIDI boots but u can feel the lever pretty good IMO ...

Rook HM has a newer version of the Lever Plus
It's called the Lever Plus SS ..... Seamless Shift which engine load plus other criteria into account
Which is some of the new technology that the GP has.
I exchanged my Lever plus
For the Plus SS which should take care of those missed shifts
I think the biggest culprit to missed shifts is being lackadaisical in shifting
not giving the normal Firm shift

Yes, capt. Read up on the HM + SS. Sounds really nice. If I recall there was someone who just bought the HM PLUS SS in the lever version. I was following that on another thread. I assumed it must be SkewedTotheLeft since this thread popped up right after. Is your's an SS, Skewed?

Rook asked:

Is your's an SS, Skewed?

No Rook, mine is the Quickshifter Plus Lever

Same here but not the lever, the strain gauge that goes with reasets. You might ask about exchanging the regular PLUS for the PLUS SS. Couldn't hurt to ask but it will also cost you a bit more. Otherwise, you're going to be experimenting with ways to get that shift %100 right under all conditions like me. I think it's possible to get it almost perfect or maybe 100% perfect with GP shift. Others seemed to be happy with the HM and that setup.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/2/2015 @ 2:44 PM *

I'm 95% sure the shifting problems I having with my K-Factory quick shifter (which are similar) to the ones you're having is me not pulling the shifter up fast and firmly enough.

really think the best solution is air shifter with onboard pump so you can use it all the time.

I think it's the fast and firm factor with me too. An air shifter SHOULD work flawlessly BUT I recently heard of a guy having problems with his electric shifter. It just quit working. An air shifter is going to require a lot of space compared to a strain gauge and you will need a bottle but an onboard compressor would be best and that's a whole lot of equipment compared to one of these lil doozies.

Well, I replaced my Shinko Hookup today and had much better results. I made about 10 or 15 power runs and had 2 mis-shifts. I noticed that if I psyche myself up and super concentrate on shifting up just as hard and fast as I can and instantly letting go of the shifter the moment I make the shift, it works much better.

I'm going to play around with the kill time a little, but I will keep everyone informed of the results

* Last updated by: skewedTotheLeft on 6/3/2015 @ 7:10 PM *

Thanks. Wish I could ride mine. Hopefully I will get to the GP shift mod so I can report how that works for me.

Excellent, thanks skewed.

Hi guys. Been following this thread with interest as I'm seriously considering getting a quick shifter in the near future. Does the HM Plus SS allow you to do both up and down shifts? Thanks for the great feedback so far??

Ok, I just got back from about 20 runs and only had 1 mis-shift. I changed my kill time to 70 ms and my sensitivity is set to 50% and I'm wearing my steel-toe brogan boots (classic working man's boot). This is the best combination so far for me.

* Last updated by: skewedTotheLeft on 6/5/2015 @ 8:37 AM *

After watching the vid of this thing in action, I think I'll just stick with foot shifting because my shifts are just as quick at wot.

* Last updated by: Nastynotch on 6/5/2015 @ 9:52 AM *

Nastynotch said:

After watching the vid of this thing in action, I think I'll just stick with foot shifting because my shifts are just as quick at wot.

Prove it. Post a vid from a 65 mph to 180 pull.

Pm me your cell and I'll send it to you. I don't want this vid public.

Too late. I just watched it. I'm the public.

Haha well one person won't hurt I guess. Pulled it down after thinking for a sec.

Be sure to check the bolt that tightens down the shift rod. Mine had lots of slop and was very loose. That could account for a couple of my mis-shifts.

Pm me your cell and I'll send it to you. I don't want this vid public.

WHAT? I have posted umpteen videos of someone going fast on a Ninja. There's no law against that.

NAsty, I find it hard to believe you could possibly shift as fast a quickshifter unless maybe you know how to cut the throttle and upshift. I don't try that on my bike so I don't know if it is as fast but I can tell you no way can I clutch shift nearly as fast as a quickshifter. It won't mean much in terms of mph or time for noncompetative racing/riding but the sensation is truly different than clutch shifting. You loose like 0 rpm between shifts there's just a twitch like a jolt of electricity between shifts. It's full power all the way from bottom to top. You might like it.

The Healtech won't break the bank. Sounds like it is capable of downshifts. Good name but be careful. Do your research.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=1A831705-0160-905B-026615B4B9F8A67D&page=2

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/5/2015 @ 11:34 AM *

I don't use the clutch at all on any up shifts WOT or not rook.

I'll send it to you on FB rook.