I had posted on this topic over a year ago. Never did change the chain yet. The old one is just about at the service limit in terms of miles but still has ~ 1/8 of stretch. I'm ready to get rid of it. Just wondering if anyone likes a non-o-ring chain for street use. What is the difference? Has anyone tried it?

Got a few replies in this topic at bikeland. Figured they would know about high performance chains. Nobody is telling me to go with a non-o-ring chain for street. But no one is saying why other than non-o-ring chains do not last as long and one member said they run noisey. My present chain had o-rings breaking after 4000 miles and I think they have all been gone for quite a few miles of use. The chain still seems to run quiet and smooth to me and it has been on the bike for over 25,000 miles.

Any opinions before I make my chain order?

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/14/2010 @ 8:55 AM *

Get a new 530 ZZZ oring chain ... Non orings on the street are a paint in the ass .. I had a non oring on the street and even keeping dripping in chain lube to would start to kink up in 30 miles ..I run the same numbers at the drag strip with an oring chain as i did with a non oring so don't worry about any HP loss ..

I've been getting the DID x-ring chains and have been getting over 20,000+ out of mine.I also got the dual metal rear sprocket.Sprocketcenter.com.

Hi Smokin. Thanks for posting. OK-- definitely going with an o-ring chain. I Like the EK ZZZ. Majority of recommendations for that one at Bikeland too. I've found it is always best to go with the crowd when the opinion is unanimous or close to unananimoius. I think I can get the ZZZ with blue painted sideplates which should match my bike and future planned graphics embellishments.

Thanks, ninjamater. My next question was "which sprockets?"

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/c/16215/1/zx-14r-06-10.html

I was eyeing the Vortex sprockets supplied by Schnitz.

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4827821&showprevnext=1

Driven Steel.

Sprockets for street?

IMO...

Factory front, Renthal rear. Stock front has a rubber damper that aftermarkets don't. If you wanna go -1 on the front, there is a factory Zephyr sprocket, with the damper, that works on the Big Ninja. Not sure about part # though.
For the street though, I'd stick with the factory 17t front. If you want more gear, and since you are replacing the chain anyway, I'd just get a bigger rear. 17/45 would be my ideal street gearing.

Renthal rears are aluminum. The one I had on my 14 showed very little wear after 13k.... 'course sprocket threads are like oil threads.

rook mate heathum put a post in ZX products & providers 10 threads down have a look you might like them

Call Doug at Spencer cycles for the zzz chain .. He gave me a killer deal on a new 150 link ZZZ .. He was 50 bucks cheaper than anyone i could find ..

haha, yeah, I was trying to combine everything I could onto one order to get free shipping from Schnitz. This all started with Muzzy block off plates and then the chain + chain breaker/riveter + sprockets = that should just about get me to where I need to be for free shipping.

Maybe I will just need to get the stuff I need at the best price and forget about free shipping. Thanks everyone. Great info.

Hey Rook... I just ordered block offs for my '08... It looks like our '08's will throw an FI code when/if we disconnect the AIS... the only plates I found that included the fix for the FI light were Ivans. Not 100% on this, but those are the ones I ordered just to be on the safe side.

Hey Rook... I just ordered block offs for my '08... It looks like our '08's will throw an FI code when/if we disconnect the AIS.

DAmn! Glad the topic came up and glad you mentioned that Dogo. Let me get a little more info. What I have done so far is plug the air suction hose that sticks up into the airbox and shove it back in. I have not removed anything--just plugged the system. I have ridden the bike with blocked PAIR for almost 10,000 miles. The decel popping was reduced about 66%--no codes of any kind.

I'm starting a new topic so this doesn't get confusing------Sprockets chains blockoff plates..................

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/14/2010 @ 6:40 PM *

'course sprocket threads are like oil threads.

Then I guess i will also have to get a sprocket thread going.

The chain question is solved. It'll be an EK 530 ZZZ or an EK 530 ZVX Check it out boys. That blue would be so damn hot on Mimi. I'll put some blue graphics on the lowers and maybe even paint the engine case blue.

Is the EK better or stronger than the DID? I alwasy thought the DID was real good?

somefun ask and you shal receive...lol MUST READ ARTICLE

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

Scottjkyl thanks so much that was a great read for sure! I'm going to go with the RKXSO for sure!

* Last updated by: Somefun on 12/15/2010 @ 8:47 AM *

Thanks, Scott. What I wish we could find out is the weight of various chains. Personally, I spend enough time researching this stuff that $$$ start to matter a lot less than performance. If what I buy does not perform as well as a cheaper brand, I'm stuck with it for the next 20,000 miles. I don't care about a few bucks more or less but I do want to be happy with what I have on my bike. Hell if I'm going to replace it again until it's worn out.

rook on my 9 i went to a 520 chain significant weight loss not in the market for a chain on the 14 yet so i havent researched it yet ill look into it and let you know

rook i checked it out and there is up to a 4lb weight savings between 520 and 530, on the downside there is not a 520 conversion kit for the 14...too much hp

rook i checked it out and there is up to a 4lb weight savings between 520 and 530,

Dang! The 530 EK ZZZ is only 4.78 lbs/100 links.
EK 530 ZZZ

You sure you got those figures right Scotty? If so, the ZZZ looks like a really nice lightweight that still has the strength of a heavy weight.

Guys I have to say one place where I will never cut back is the drive gear....I love my 130 to 180 MPH blasts way too much and never want to think twice about the drive gear.....530 all the way!!!

Is the EK better or stronger than the DID? I alwasy thought the DID was real good?

I don't know that one is A LOT stronger than the other. EK claims:

The EK 530ZZZ has a tensile strength of 11,000 pounds – higher than that of any previous EK street chain, and some 6 percent higher than a leading competitor’s “premium” 530 chain. Yet the Triple Z weighs in at 4.78 pounds per 100 links, 5 percent less than the competitor’s chain.

I think the competitor they are talking about is probably DID. I imagine the two chains are actually pretty comparable. Bikeland replies seem fairly unanimous on favoring the EK ZZZ. No one states any reason for the preference. I doubt there is a huge dif - Especially if you are not racing.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/16/2010 @ 9:37 PM *

Good choice Rook...I'm not truly convinced with all the stuff said on that website there.Personally,I go with DIADO(oem)X-ring 530,tensile strength 11,000.Never had any probs.But I'm curious here...in that blue chain pic there,what are those two "m" shaped deals?Are those a tightening spacer for the master,then remove after mushrooming the pins?HHmmmm...THAT would be nice if they did that for us
"amateurs".Avoid all that"did I tighten too far" thing.

Bikeland is a good resource, IMO. There is a strong contingent of hardcore racers there but that makes them well qualified for sensible suggestions for high performance mods on street bikes.

.in that blue chain pic there,what are those two "m" shaped deals?

Never having installed a chain, I barely noticed those two parts. The silver plated link laying there is the master that gets riveted. I'd say you deduction that those two thingamabobs are spacers of some sort is a pretty good one. They look like they would slide over the rollers (or the x-rings) and lay against the inside of the side plates on the master link. I guess I will find out.

We have a choice of breaker/riveter or just a riveter. I suppose a hacksaw could be used to "break' a chain, hey? Then just go with the riveter?
RK Pro Breaker/Riveter
Sprocket Center Riveter

NO NO NO!!!!You don't use a hacksaw to break the chain!!!!"chain breaker" is a term.You're actually removing the master link.You're not "breaking" anything.

Motionpro Chain Tool(there's several on there you could use).THIS is the one I got.Works great!$74.00.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/17/2010 @ 9:48 AM *