Mav, I took a propane torch to a steel plate, dunked it in water. It was brand new, never used. I first took a measurement off my surface plate. After I don't know how many dunks in the water, here I'm thinking how long will I keep the bike in gear, lever to the grip and all that friction going on.
Here platea-platea. And after all those heat cycles I came away with the same measurements when it was new. My suggestion to you is, tc, leave the bike intact. First let the lever be changed back to stock or modify the ones now. Front brake drag? Do not tamper with [clutch] cover bolts and expect warranty where you already broke the seal sorta speak.
I could figure it out with a cold start if the clutch just expanded at that point and now it's cooled down. The heat sink is now in place or not:
1. Front wheel against the wall if we still have creep, then it stalls rather than you adding mph and that adds crash times a stab down.
2. The stab down is the normal clunk, but the test is to pull the bike back against the clutch in and a cold plate pack not hitting each other in the cold set.
3. Then, this is all in one big 3-point toe and heel. While the lever is never let out, the foot is back on the left peg and you push back with the right leg, making the bike head back toward the wall. Why?
a. This gives the counter an easy click in because of the wheel roll.
b. This is a slam up to second from 1st and no noise should occur, no creep.
c. This is then back to 1st and then back up to N all in so fast, who did no go smooth?
Conclusion:
If all went smooth, no warp, no clutch effect, just too hot but saved by the touching and oil it did touch on the lever release.
That means the clutch pack is dead cold and straight as a board and N was an easy find = No damage.
And for an extra kick up the nasal passages, remove the oil cap and take a sniff. Smell burned or nice carbon scent oil? I want to smell more oil than BBQ kind of after taste. Go smell.
* Last updated by: Hub on 3/24/2015 @ 5:09 PM *
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