Now maverick I hope you're just kidding. There's no cables on the clutch. (Hydraulic) OP like Maverick previously said, some of your steels are probably warped. That's what it really sounds like. But what notch is your clutch lever set at? 5 is all the way in, 1 is all the way out. You can try moving it out a
Click or 2, and if that doesn't work then it's definitely your steels.

Hub, I have a stack of warped steels that measures over a foot tall on my work bench. I'm tougher than your torch.

BG, What exactly would I be kidding about?

lol I read it wrong, Maverick. I read it as you would be damned if you took your bike in for something basic like that. Once I re-read all the comments I saw what you were referring to.

* Last updated by: bgmagma10 on 3/24/2015 @ 8:12 PM *

I wouldn't take it in. I would pull it into the garage and rip the clutch out of it to see if that's the problem.

Mav, Here's the deal. Time is money. Pit time is points. Time starts NOW!
Flat-rate: There's hub at the key switch, he wrapped his hand around the engine and it's cold out of the freezer.
Pit-puffing: And Mav is still at his toolbox collecting tools and turning on the compressor for the air gun. NO! He's selecting T-handles.

Flat-rat: Well, there's hub with his first stab into first and he's looking back at Mav with a grin and turns his head back, the bike's starter engages.
Pit-puffing: can't find the T-handle to take off the clutch cover. Lets get back to hub, you have 10second remaining.

Flat-rate: The bike is spinning but no, wait, was that motor removing the oil off the plates and the starter spun faster? Hub turns his head back to Mav and says I forgot to turn the kill to on. We'll get back to hub that fucking wrinkle out the side of his lip turns around back and Mav! Ladies and gentlemen!
Pit-puffing: Oh no, Mav is back at the toolbox collecting air tools 5 seconds to go! Oh folks, this is so exciting I can't hold my bowel movements someone is going to shithell. And time is UP! Hands away from the bike.

Well, with the starter revving like shit and the bike sitting there not moving, crawling up Mav's ass, let me be the first ass and step away from the bike, you are not ready for flat-rating. LOL

Ride Mav, don't wrench. This is big-boy territory... Sniff-Sniff.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/24/2015 @ 8:29 PM *

I think that all this is conjecture about what's wrong...when actually,the complaint was slight creeping on occasion and CLUNKY shifts from 3rd to 2nd.And into 1st.Anyone here ride his bike?NO.We can't possibly know what his bike is actually feeling like.I can produce EXACTLY what he's describing if I shift DOWN a particular way,and also feel a split second feel of the bike moving forward ON OCCASION.

My clutch is fine.My fluids are fine.I've no air in the line.He's got 2500 miles on this bike.It hasn't been dragged.Raced.Mistreated in any way.According to him.And some of you guys honestly think his clutch is going south?Warped plates and such?The BEST advice I've heard in all this was...REPLACE the Factory clutch lever...and go from there.This issue will NOT be resolved by setting the lever at ANY number on that small dial for one thing.It's got nothing to do with how close the lever is to the grip.The clutch starts disengaging at approx 1/2 inch pull.Maybe an inch.That's about it.That's all it takes to disengage this clutch pack.

I seriously think it's his Pazzo levers.2500 miles...plenty of time of clutching to wear the plunger down.

Not trying to say ANYONE here is 'wrong'...all these comments are very right...for the right problem.I had Pazzos on my 07.Guess what?Soon as I replaced em with the factory ones....voila!No clutch issues again.Never went back to pazzos.

He can look down into the clutch pack through the oil fill plug.Watch the plates move.Clearly.You guys know they move pretty visibly.No question.That space that they move...you think a plate could be THAT warped at 2500 miles of 'normal' riding?I don't.

I'm not the mechanic here...you guys are.He said it's not slipping.So the lever throw is fine.It's engaging fine.I think the pazzo plunger is failing...perhaps moving in there causing it not hit at the same place every time he clutches.He said it's gotten more noticeable over time.The weak link here is the pazzo lever.The plunger material.It's gonna get worn more and more over time...he won't be able to shift at all 'using the clutch' if he keeps using that lever.That's what I think.

I think tearing into the clutch pack and all is not necessary at this point UNTIL he determines the lever is functioning right.AND the system is correctly bled.Slave and master.

Let me ask this one question here...how many of you guys that own this 14R have had warped clutch plates?Since you've owned and ridden your bikes...whatever mileage you have on em right now?Riding it like the OP has posted.

My transmission will clunk noticeably when shifting down into those lower gears IF I'm at the right speed and rpms.The slower the bike is moving,the less it clunks.The values given in the owner's manual actually work to minimize this clunking deal.Do I always go by those?No...but when I do,she downshifts very nicely.Also the speed at which the gear shift lever is being toed.

Nothing wrong pulling the clutch basket and inspecting.But it is a 'job'.In this case,it may be totally unnecessary.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2015 @ 9:43 PM *

It would only take a single fouled plate to cause enough drag to disrupt functionality. What I'm saying is that pulling the clutch pack is so simple that EVERY rider should be able to do it. I pull my pack out every weeekend before I head to the track.

Leave the wrenching to the big boys Hub? How about leave the wiring harness to the big boys?(Someone post a pic of ole rat nest himself) Like I said. Start to finish is well under an hour to completely pull the pack, inspect, reassemble, and ride away. Go ahead and bleed your lines and throw a stock lever on and let us know what happens.

* Last updated by: maverick1441 on 3/25/2015 @ 6:52 AM *

"I pull my pack out every weeekend before I head to the track."...I can see why,yes.And you're definitely right about the 'simplicity' of opening her up for this inspection.I've done it a few times.If I could successfully do this,anyone can.I'm just saying that IF this isn't the problem,then all that work is for nothing(well,experience yes)...and there is a small possibility that something could go wrong.IDK(WE) how much mechanical ability the OP has.You CAN get this procedure wrong.Especially if you've not looked carefully at the diagrams in the service manual and understand what they're showing.

You know perfectly how the clutch pack and all has to be handled.Someone else may not 'see' it like you do...that's all I'm saying pertaining to the clutch pack removal.This procedure NEEDS to be understood fully by whoever is doing it(including recognizing what the manual is showing)(assuming a guy has to use the manual).It's not the same as replacing a lever or removing a wheel.

"It would only take a single fouled plate to cause enough drag to disrupt functionality"...agree.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2015 @ 7:45 AM *

Mav,would you mind doing a how to the next time you pull it apart to inspect?

Grn14, i've personally had my clutch drag a bit with my lever on setting #5, moved it out 1-2 notches and it fixed it. Not saying thats the OP's problem but everything is worth a try, especially something simple like that. I have definitely heard of people having issues with aftermarket levers, though.

Mav,

... i've personally had my clutch drag a bit with my lever on setting #5, moved it out 1-2 notches and it fixed it. Not saying thats the OP's problem but everything is worth a try

This is what I mean is this is bigboy speak right here. You first need to have an open mind and walk both your time consuming job of busting open a brand new bike and all it needs is a pinch at an adjustment or a stock lever back on.

We are again in a growing/knowing this happens at the lever is loose freeplay and it goes back to normal when cooled. That's why you have your clutch cable loose at the perch. Liquid, you are stuck with that setting.

If it wasn't for a second observation from magma, do you see that's two lever options to your breakdown a new bike still under warranty? Mav, stay young and cocky. You are not ready for the big top. Sit in the chair and think like Monster. That japanese guy driving up pikes standing next to his trailer all air guitar playing those curves. I'd be tending tree. No putdown, just pitalk.

Mav, I'm changing the lever and looking at you and the clock. You are at what stage of the plate is in or out, but you are about to be disqualified get the meal on the plate or the plates in the bike... 10-9-8-... Hands UP!

pullin apart clutches is childsplay, learned the hard way, burned out many on my lc350, fukn things cost me more than i was earning at the time, id just keep riding until its a pain in the ass riding around clutch slip, then replace the whole lot, aint fukd a clutch in the last 20 odd bikes ive had though

Understood, metro, but I enjoy the action of a novice against the pro vs the OP. The beauty of it, we have no clue the opinion of the OP as to h/er mechanical ability, the wallet vs the loan, the paid in cash, the I bought it for the warranty and on and on.

So, the I can dig into anything attitude vs hold on now, it's just a common occurrence is this experience verses a lot more experience doing this clutch work day in day out for decades and the novice doing it on a weekend basis and that's a when they can/when the snow is gone in a few months/and that level of clutch changes year in and year out... The lip wrinkles, the hand covers it icon.

To me this says, look at magma's pinch at the adjust knob and how long was that clutch expanding until he caught it? First day? Five runs later? Still, a same situation and now this is the first time the OP caught it how long ago between lever changes?

And then the clinker. If only the OP would come back and say he cannot duplicate that with a cold run down the street and back and still putt-putt at a low rpm and tell if it's as smooth as glass and N is a cinch. That says flat and cold.

The quickest, most simplest, the fastest answer out the hand to foot I move that thing 4 yards give me. LOL

Well...if ya'll think it's the lever 'distance' adjuster...okay.Think about it though.What does that adjuster do?

How I see it(and know to be true on MY bike)..the lever components of the master plunger and all are set to actuate a certain way,(engage/disengage distance)...does that change?No...that does NOT change.What changes is the distance between the grip and the lever itself.C'mon guys...that's all that does.Either moves the lever closer to the grip,or farther away.For rider preference.If you set it all the way in,on 5...the mechanics of the master don't change.All the way out,on 1..same thing.It only changes where the 'force' begins(rider feel).Pulling the lever IN with your fingertips gripping,or IN with your fingers gripping.IF you fabricated some lever that was totally shaped different,and was workable,it would still actuate according to the master setup.THAT does not change with any lever.The lever adjuster is ONLY for rider comfort and ease of use.Just like the BRAKE lever.Your'e saying if you adjust the brake lever pull point in,it'll lock the brakes up?I don't THINK so...but what do I know;)

Either 5 or 1 allows a FULL engagement or disengagement to occur when the bike is static(N)or shifting while moving.There's no pressure on the Hydraulics of the clutch pak.

Not to anger anyone,but IF they somehow 'fixed' a clutch issue as stated by moving the lever in or out,they were already having an issue with the clutch mechanism..be it fluid,or something else.

What are the selling points for the Pazzo?"Moves the lever closer to the handgrip"plus not sticking out.It doesn't change the master components at all.UNTIL...the plunger begins to wear...Then the distances of engagement and disengagement change.The more that piece wears,the less plunger action occurs.Which means...pulling in the clutch ISN'T the same amount anymore as the factory unit.So it doesn't work right.Nothing wrong with the lever itself.It's the plunger wear that's causing it.Pushing against the master.

ANYONE can go out right now and fully open or close that lever adjustment deal.Go ride.Come back and say...'yep,my clutch started slipping(or gripping)"as the case may be.

Does the manual say..."beware,fully adjusting the lever one way or the other will cause the clutch to not operate properly"...if you can find this,I'll never post again.

Changing the lever action adjuster from something'uncomfortable' to something'easy to operate' could make it seem as if 'my problem's fixed'.What's changed?What's changed is how the rider NOW feels clutching his bike.As opposed to 'problematic' with the former settings.

HOW many guys here pull the lever in all the way when they shift?It's a habit.It feels like the correct thing to do.Is it though?Is it necessary?Go and ride trying different clutch pulling distances(not lever adjustments in or out) while riding.

How much distance of the actuation actually occurs?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2015 @ 9:26 PM *

As far as the warranty goes it does not cover 'wear and tear' on such items as batteries, brakes, clutch friction materials, drive chains but such items are covered if replacement is required "as a result of manufacturing or material defect". Personally, I would not consider clutch problems after 2500miles as normal wear and tear. Also, if you were to strip the clutch, easy as it is, find faulty parts and attempt a warranty claim the dealer may object to you doing this and insist you book the bike in with them for the work to be done.
Assuming it's not down to the after market lever or something equally simple my advice would still be to take it to a dealer. JMO

No one here has even mentioned the slave cylinder.I did,but only for bleeding it.BUT,problems with clutching CAN and DO occur when there's an issue with the slave.It should be considered here...Starting with inspecting for a leak at the plastic washer that connects the outer piece to the main piece.And also...IS the reservoir losing fluid over time.With no apparent leaking going on.If that slave piston isn't working properly,no amount of checking clutch plates or levers is gonna fix it.Lever condition first.Slave leak check,second.Reservoir fluid amount also.

I'll tell ya,having had three of these 14's,and experiencing virtually the same deal that the op has said...AND having pazzos as well...I'd definitely count out the clutch pak being the problem at 2500 miles.And my issues when resolved were NOT the clutch steels or anything related.

I'll add just one more thing...has the OP looked into the reservoir?IF there's ANY black particles or black 'dust' sitting at the bottom,it's a pretty good sign that the master internals are failing.Those rubber parts CAN break loose and clog the holes inside that master.It's happened to me.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2015 @ 11:38 AM *

You've had black thingies clog your orifice?!

Simple question, Grn14. When you adjust your clutch lever, does it change how far off the bar the the clutch starts to engage? Better yet, Do you think clutch stack height has anything to do with how a clutch engages? Again, everyone is just trying to give advice to the OP from simple things to try to more in depth things. This isn't a pissing contest.

I'm so confused now....:) lol......I appreciate all the input....I think a quick lever change will help decipher what may be really wrong....

On that note...anyone using another brand aftermarket levers that have NOT had issues?

Thanks again guys.....

"You've had black thingies clog your orifice?!"...yup,On my 07.;)

"When you adjust your clutch lever, does it change how far off the bar the the clutch starts to engage?"...Yes.So what are you saying?PLEASE explain then...

"Do you think clutch stack height has anything to do with how a clutch engages?"...you know...looking at your avatar,you're apparently a dragger.Of course it's gonna be different if you add plates.We're talking about the OP's FACTORY setup.Not a drag setup.No application to Drag racing with this bike is gonna be a testament to a street ridden bike.Other than how LONG these clutches can actually survive;)

Let me ask you this.If you adjust the BRAKE lever,does it affect the braking pad action?So what DOES affect the braking pad action?

At 2500 miles of normal use...this clutch pak's steels and fibers are NOT gonna wear thin.NO WAY.Nor are they gonna warp...not as long as the oil levels have been properly maintained.The key is...NORMAL riding.

Again...show me where in the manual it says...'caution,adjusting the lever position CAN cause clutch action to be affected in an adverse way'...I said,I'll stop posting and leave if ANYONE can find ANYTHING remotely associated with lever adjustment and clutch action on the 14/14R motorcycle.

Anyone wanting get me outta here..here's you chance.

"I'm so confused now....:) lol."...this is what happens when statements are made without actual proof of things.If it could be affected,the MANUAL would SAY SO.What I've posted here are ALL in the manual...from the reservoir fluid particles visual check,to the slave possibly leaking,to air in the line.I'd almost bet my life on it that YOUR clutch pak is FINE.

Almost everyone has talked about the clutch pak having a problem.Hasn't anyone considered the master starting to fail as was mentioned?It happens.That's why they have a section about it in the manual.If those ports start becoming clogged,they will cause the hydraulic action to deteriorate.Even the OP stated it has progressed more and more over time.The master is susceptible to o-ring failure over time.Has the lever action become spongy with no apparent leaks?Air or fluid?Does it one time work fine,and another,iffy?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2015 @ 7:42 PM *

(he didn't get my joke)

tc, remove the clutch lever. Carefully look for an indent/rub/wear pattern made by [the stock push pin] or another part, as if something is rubbing and it is not inline with the pull. I think something had to be grooved out because of the plane of sight, there was some sort of spot that needed relief?

Which means, if I see the stock push pin has gouges down the side of it, that pin is a ball tip at the end and nothing should slide or hit at the side of the pin. I'd look there. Say the hole is deep enough, but not wide enough and is hanging up at a pitched sort of stops there and not free-floating in the hole where the pin and lever stop act act as a ball and socket.

Take no offense, but you shouted out for another aftermarket lever. Wasn't one headache enough? Stay stock or stay confused lol.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/25/2015 @ 9:09 PM *

Magma said..."You can try moving it out a
Click or 2, and if that doesn't work then it's definitely your steels".

Will moving the lever out repair a poor fitting pin?Or IN for that matter.Someone PLEASE tell me how changing the lever distance from grip to lever affects the pin contacting the plunger on the master. IF the engagement/disengagement occurred just before the lever conatcts the grip,I could see it.But the action does NOT happen there.It happens within the first 1/2,1" of movement,regardless where the lever is at.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2015 @ 9:40 PM *

Remove the lever and inspect the pin. If you see shavings of metal, it's wearing. It might be subtle but you'll probably find a groove worn around the pin where it fits into the lever. My Pazzo caused the clutch to slip because the pin was stuck IN but I can see how the same type of wear could cause the pin to be stuck OUT. that would cause the symptoms you are describing. Look at the lever first and you can rule that out if it's not worn.