2xl gloves here, so that will complicate things slightly

Bike land has a thread re: 14R plug wrench. They don't come with one

Bike land has a thread re: 14R plug wrench. They don't come with one

* Last updated by: dragking on 1/11/2013 @ 6:37 PM *

I noticed that also...thankfully...the guys that hauled my (last) 14 saved the tool kit...who knew?I mean...yes...there's one in there...from previously.(not the 14R)...it may have something to do with the airbox...there's not much room I found out...like the earlier birds.You snap a plug off...not much you can do ya know????

You know...it may be entirely possible that Kawasaki didn't want the owners to be going in and changing stuff that 'could' end up being a disaster(for some)...as much as changing plugs seems 'simple'...it can end up being a real problem if yer not used to doing it....maybe that's why..."no sparkplug wrench on this model"...IDK.Probably will be soon...as soon as they start getting reports about crosstheaded ports and all.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/11/2013 @ 10:24 PM *

I got the kit plug socket out last night and, in a stroke of blind, dumb luck, the large end of the 1/2"/9/16" ratcheting combination wrench (the only one I own) FITS!

The owner's manual for the European bikes gives the plug type and gap etc. When it comes to changing them it simply states, "Spark plug removal should be done by an authorised Kawasaki dealer". Hence no plug spanner in the toolkit.

I'll squirt a little PB Blaster down each plug hole and let it sit a while before I attempt to spin them out.

Your bike should have one...I'd be cautious about spraying anything in there...unless you know for sure there's no porcelien pieces sitting there...Those plug covers work very well...I'd trust that if it were me.

Before you squirt any sort of lube or freeing agent down there or even try to spin the plugs out just blow any crap out with a powerful airline while holding the tube from a hoover up top to suck away anything that flies up. I ALWAYS do this just as a precaution. JMO

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 1/12/2013 @ 4:18 PM *

I'll take a peek with a mirror and flashlight after I get the stick coils out.

.I'd be cautious about spraying anything in there

Yes--oil will hold onto dirt in the future and make it harder to clean out.

Before you squirt any sort of lube or freeing agent down there or even try to spin the plugs out just blow any crap out with a powerful airline while holding the tube from a hoover up top to suck away anything that flies up. I ALWAYS do this just as a precaution. JMO

Sounds like a very good idea. There is always gravel and dirt oieces that accumulate on top of the motor and with the rubber mat on there they may not be so easy to see. If any fall in the plug hole, next stop, cylinder wall.

I blew my motor top off before removing the plug I took out. Now I have that rubber off of there and I can pretty much see what debris lays on top....if your going to vacuum, maybe that is all you need do? Skip the blow which may dislodge debris from above and just go with the vacuum, maybe? If you never had the stick coils out, I don't see that there would be any reason to blow the spark plug holes out...unless you think something might have dropped in there after removing the stick coils.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/12/2013 @ 9:29 PM *

You guys are spinning around in circles. I've been working on motors for 40 years, this ain't my first rodeo. No insurmountable disasters yet. Besides, this ain't a Ford 5.4 motor with disintegrating plugs. Any residual PB will get cleaned up before reassembly.

As it turns out, no penetrant was necessary. All 4 plugs spun out easily. I used a bit of masking tape to line the plug wrench and it brought the plugs right out. Preliminary check of clearances shows most of the exhausts (the ones I checked) within spec, but I'm waiting until this weekend when it warms up a bit to get a more accurate reading.

You guys are spinning around in circles. I've been working on motors for 40 years, this ain't my first rodeo. No insurmountable disasters yet. Besides, this ain't a Ford 5.4 motor with disintegrating plugs. Any residual PB will get cleaned up before reassembly.

As it turns out, no penetrant was necessary. All 4 plugs spun out easily. I used a bit of masking tape to line the plug wrench and it brought the plugs right out. Preliminary check of clearances shows most of the exhausts (the ones I checked) within spec, but I'm waiting until this weekend when it warms up a bit to get a more accurate reading.

My plugs surrendered without a fight, it was that last stick coil. Did those came out fairly easy for you?

I had to grab and twist each stick coil and use my other hand as a lever to exert some extra upward force, but they (reluctantly) came out. Another thing I learned was pulling upward on the velocity stacks with both hands was futile, but if you pull with one hand, you hear a squawk as they start to come loose. Then, pushing one edge upward from below, folding it to the inside of it's throat makes them come through the grommets in the airbox easier.

My stick coils came out without too much trouble. I used danno's technique. The ducts come off easier with a little silicone spray lube. Pull up while pressing from below with you free hand. The duct will pull right up and the clamp will fall on the t-body bore below it.

Thanks for the How To spyglass! Mine at 7,515 :

Mine were all like this at 8200m. Gap hardly changed from new and virtually no deposits. Think I'll leave them in and check them again around 20k.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 2/8/2013 @ 1:51 PM *

My stick coils came out without too much trouble. I used danno's technique. The ducts come off easier with a little silicone spray lube. Pull up while pressing from below with you free hand. The duct will pull right up and the clamp will fall on the t-body bore below it.

By the way Derirey plugs look a little like mine. It must be that Ethanol crap we have in TX! The gas quality among other things will dictate how religious you have to be with the book manual. Only problem is the new plugs I have are supposedly good for 12K so I'll probably go 10k regardless.

* Last updated by: dragking on 2/12/2013 @ 3:13 PM *

It may be the Ethanol dragking or i'm running a little on the rich side. I'm going to stick with the 7500 mile mark.

Oh now the real stories come out lol

wrenching and innuendo go hand in hand. There is no escaping if you can't keep your mind out of the gutter!

ordered a set of velocity stacks, so when I get that, I will have the bike on the dyno

make sure you post results if you get w/wo velocity stacks runs. It's a popular mod. Everyone I know who installed those swears by it but others say it can't do anything but look pretty and ad a couple ounces of weight.

It may be the Ethanol dragking or I'm running a little on the rich side. I'm going to stick with the 7500 mile mark

make sure you post results if you get w/wo velocity stacks runs. It's a popular mod. Everyone I know who installed those swears by it but others say it can't do anything but look pretty and ad a couple ounces of weight.

I realize that this thread was started last year and dragged into early 2013 but I wanted to make a comment. I've noticed that many places are charging close to $10 for the spark plugs in our ZX-14's and bike shops are getting more than that.

I was at Summit Racing a short while back and noticed that they sell the CR9EIA plugs for $6.99 each. This was the best I'd seen anyplace.

I have a Summit Racing store locally so I can't comment on shipping charges but it might be worth a look if you're ready to change the plugs in your bike.

Already spent $80 on my set.

Changed the plugs myself for the first time today. The plug socket in the tool kit made life so much better - less than 30 minutes for the change.

They don't look too bad, especially since they had 68,000 miles on them.

* Last updated by: RRZX14 on 7/13/2013 @ 3:30 PM *

I gotta do this so bad. ...but I'm not about to tear fairings off and pull stick coils. Weather is too nice to wrench.

I vacuumed the valve cover and then I washed it. Found plenty of tiny chunks of asphalt stuck to the valve cover and even some loose gravel that did not get vacuumed up beforehand. I applied grease to the stick coils as I pulled them in an effort to catch any debris that may fall in the well. After all of that, I stick my finger in and get small chunks of black stuff. It crumbles between my fingernails with a little effort.

Could this be carbon from the sparkplugs? ...or is it a sign that changing sparkplugs without dropping debris down the sparkplug wells is futile?