This HOW-TO is from the zx14ninja.com forum. It was posted by Hub on 7/2/2008

After an oil change. Compliments go to, Mr. BlueBurnout's video...

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Engine-of-the-Zx14-at_33211.htm

Hear is what I did when I first heard the cam tensioner knock on the oil change. I shut the bike off once I heard the oil did not take on the first wizzz up the tensioner tube system.

This is my guess and since my assumption is the oil flew past the hole on start up? I am no engineer/designer. But watch the video. Could you make a guess at how simple the tensioner works under pressure?

I figure the oil just shoots past on start up is it lost that oil lock on the oil filter drain. What is hanging up is just shut it off and light it off again is what cured my '08's noise. I did it and it could make sense to one watching that oil ratchet the inner housing on the slipper arm.

That ratchet is locked and when the slipper eventually wears out, it will (the oil pressure) automatically both add slight pressure and automatically set the next tooth mark forward; so that tensioner's rod keeps moving out during quiet wear it down; got you covered on the slipper to chain noise...

Keep shutting down the oil pressure (even if you filled that oil cartridge it still makes noise) until it starts up normal, (like, no noise normal; no complaints on start up each time out for a ride sounds quiet and normal).

Try that start-stop-start and confirm that did the trick or you found it some other how-to-way is you are up next for the next tensioner noize cure.

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* Last updated by: bgordon on 2/12/2009 @ 3:02 PM *

So one of the ways that I can think of to avoid that CCT noise apon cold start-up would be for the engine to crank over on the starter for a couple of seconds before it fires up. But how? Same applies to just after an oil change. Priming the oiling system is what I'm trying to say.

* Last updated by: Beondwacko on 3/12/2009 @ 5:38 AM *

2006 ZZR1400, 53,000 miles. Camchain made a hell of racket in first few second hot or cold, but worse; after thrash (pulling a wheelie for example) the noise retuned for a few seconds, or half a minute. Replaced the camchain tensioner, that made a small improvement, but not much better. Replaced the camchain itself, COMPLETELY SILENT! Made all the difference. The old camchain looked okay, no pitting or making, but it was knackered.

If your camchain is noisy, replace it. It’s not that much work.

PRIME:

When you know you are going to change the oil, stop the bike in at least 4th gear. Reason is that you will need 6th gear to walk the bike. Top off the oil in the new filter and spin it on. Take your time if some falls out. Primary concern is not to strip the threads thinking you need to hurry.

Your next step is to walk-prime the bike. This is how I prime a new rebuilt engine is cold walk it in top gear. And it might be a balancing act, if you cannot walk that bike on the side. Then straddle the bike to push the bike a few feet with the key on. It will prime fast you walk fast enough to watch the oil light go out. Then start the engine, see if that helped.

At 53,000 any internal part is going to run quieter and close down 53K of burned out hours nearing it's serviceable limit. So yeah, sprockets should have been swapped out too, but how much you gonna throw at a throw away.

"cure cam chain startup noise".........may wanna get yer tried and true APE manual tensioner.Just a thought .I've had one on mine forever-no noise since-and never needed to readjust either.30,000 miles of quiet startups.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/8/2010 @ 2:19 AM *

A ratchet type tensioner like the 14, moves with the slack wear or slipper wear. That means on lift, the chain can push a little of the tensioner away. With a static, the chain can cut into the slipper being stuck in place and not float or accelerate the wear. A static tensioner needs higher maintenance than waiting for the noise to crop up. 30K and no noise might be one thing, but if you turned the crank backwards, watched to see the cams move or watch the cams hang before the slack is taken up, especially when the racing hours call for checking every 5th or 6th race and that is less than 3 hours of time running per race. 3 hours is one day's weekend ride and that is 52 times or half that year of 22 times out vs. 6 times checking a static tensioner.

Well I think I see what you're sayin Hub-however-when installing the tensioner,one is NOT cranking down on the adjuster-unless one wants to damage the slipper as you are saying.The tensioner is ONLY turned to the point of NO NOISE...not NO NOISE and "just for good measure",one or two more turns.It is then backed out 1/2 turn once set at the No NOISE setting.This gives the shoe plenty of space to not be damaged,yet it stops the chain from flapping excessively.That's my understanding of it.The shoe can still move somewhat.I imagine if the chain is worn and stretched,then that would be something for concern?I'd be more concerned with damage to the chain and shoe with the hydraulic tensioner not operating efficiently at startup?It would be interesting to find out how many chains failed,or had to be replaced using the factory tensioner as opposed to those who installed a manual tensioner(correctly set of course).My bike isn't driven like a race bike-so I'm guessing the manual tensioner will be fine for my application.

I'll agree you could get away with the balancers that you turn the offset to begin the chatter then back off till quiet.
The cam chain is a whole different deal. Old style is a soft wound spring that pushed the slipper up against the chain. You had to release the set screw that held the push shaft from walking backward/forward; Once that static position was found that is all she wrote. Tighten nut like a race tensioner.

Didn't I once mention a story about the battle of cam chain tensioner settings over at CB1100 with Sonic and a member that tried the OEM way [15° past TDC-compression stroke]? Sonic/your way is running. Then my way with a static load on the crank direction and now set the slipper? Whom do you think won that round being the least noisy? There is a point there somewhere.

Remember with the out of sync pulse you have a possible bark down on a whip loose. Even though it may sound quiet. I bet the slipper is cut deeper with 30K still cutting into that tensioner. If the other rider with 53K on his chain and that was with a stock slipper, why are you throwing hot rod parts at it if you are not about to ride it like a race bike?

How come my bike gets the whipping like I'm still racing and she purrs with all those different weights of oil and I am going to shut up now...

Jack,

Have you been on the back wheel a lot with that bike? Say since you've owned it? You pop a wheelie when it happens or do you practice hang time and get into a wheelie? I am trying to find out if you stretched that chain from the get go. But then, a lot of others have lofted plenty. Are you a proficient wheelie guy on the 14?

"how come my bike gets the whipping like I'm still racing and she purrs with all those different weights of oil"....well,Hub...probably because she's a badazz built motorcycle and is designed to withstand the rigors of high speed operation?The shoe is not pressing on the chain-only when she "whips" at first startup-no real difference in the overall operation of the shoe.Whereas the stock tensioner allowed a certain amount of whip,the shoe now is preset to stop the whip,without having to "adjust" from oil pressure-Yes?So the wear is no more or less on the shoe.In fact,it may even be less-for the stock tensioner was ALWAYS running against the chain from oil pressure.Now that is no longer occurring.It's only set to reduce the play at startup.Not while it's running(although there may be a tad of tension there-but probably not near as much as the stock shoe pressure mechanism.Make sense?)

...(although there may be a tad of tension there-but probably not near as much as the stock shoe pressure mechanism.Make sense?) Yes.

So, here is an oil assist tensioner that keeps the cam timing pretty much locked down under constant oil pressure. The static tensioner cannot push at a constant because there is no oil to hold that chain from unloading when you lift off the gas. Your cam timing lags as the crank takes that chain slack back up on accel; where it should be pressurized. If the oil assist was holding the chain steady and in a fluid push in both directions, the cam timing stays more stable and true. Make sense?

Ya-I could see that happening-on a worn chain or sprockets.

Take a brand new chain and sprocket and install it on the counter shaft and the rear wheel sprocket. Make your 1.5" slack in the adjustment.

Can you see that rear wheel lag about an inch before the cam moves is zero chain/sprocket wear same principal applies you run some chain roller with some kind of springeedingee? blue? You trying to mess with me like worroll?

Nah Hub-aint messin with ya.Just thinkin out loud that's all.I would imagine EVERY cam chain and sprocket setup has a minute amount of play-I'm no engineer.All I know is my bike is quiet with the tensioner adjusted the way they said,and I've not had to readjust it since?No weird colored stuff with the oil,so I'm guessin the shoe is doing okay in there.

I installed a modified zx12r CCT on my bike today. It is self adjusting, like the factory CCT, however, it uses a spring (not oil pressure) to get the job done.
I purchased from forum member Bill Eason (billeason).

Enjoy your quiet cam chain.

Oh mine rattles for an amazing length of time on first start up in the spring. Got my APE waiting here. Might ask Bill about a ZX-12 CCT. We'll see how confident I am in my CCT sweetspot tuning.

Oh mine rattles for an amazing length of time on first start up in the spring. Got my APE waiting here. Might ask Bill about a ZX-12 CCT. We'll see how confident I am in my CCT sweetspot tuning

Plenty of guys using the APE with good results. Replaced my CCT with only 90 miles on my bike. Cam chain had never made a peep... and now, unless it's time for replacement, it never will.

Rook,

If anyone can find the sweet spot... We know where to find that person to do it. Novice to master mechanic. I've seen you grow here. I think that mechanic shit might work with your generic golf theory. Withing 3 years of hitting ball or hit the road, fella. So, if you are not swinging/hitting like Tiger to beat TIGER... USEDa MAN, Rooksteer!

Green Jacket kind of saying... So far, I am impressed. The rest is your confidence figuring out that spot ON!

Ya missed a SPOT! (jk)

OMG!!! You have to be joking. The ZX14 had a CCT issue! I just left Superhawks which have HORRIBLE CCT issues. I did install a APE one on my old Hawk, but I didnt want to do it on my new bike. My bike is very nosy in my mind, but i have never heard another ZX-14 before in my life. So i really dont know what they are suppose to sound like. It does sound like quite a bit of rattling, so I might need to get a new chain or CCT. DARNIT! Well, thanks for bringing this to my attention. Anyone have a good quality video recording with good accurate sound of a stock or lightly modified ZX-14? I would like to hear one to compare.

Mine sounds like a winding noise. It gets louder as i accelerate.I might take a video.

Thanks again!

"Winding" noise?(or "whining" noise?)....runnin gears my man.Trans.Intake whistle.It's all good.Cam noise...CLACK CLACK CLACK>>>>>but not after initial startup.Not while she's rollin.Couple o' seconds(or a tad more depending) at first fire-up...oil pressure builds in the CCT loop...noise...gone.CLACKIN if yer ridin?...hmmmm...not good.Should NEVER do that.

I just LOVE my whistler...SHWEEET!You can go onto my YouTube site...name's bluzxable...NOT "bluzxable's channel"(that's mine also...but the vid quality isn't too good).Puttin up some vids now with the sound yer talkin about.(the sound aint the best ya know cause of the "upload"...but she's singin like a.....like a BIG BIRD!A Big BAD Bird.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/15/2011 @ 2:24 AM *

"my whistler" <<<<<<<<

She's ripping like you are running down the hall with corduroy pants zipping between your legs.

You collapse the brushes, it's too tight.

Well, my bike is starting to rattle on cold starts. Sometimes a few seconds, sometimes maybe half a minute.
I did change from Dino oil to Mobil full-syn but that was about 2 months ago. The noise just started a couple weeks ago. About every other cold start. So I don't think the different oil has anything to do with. I don't know.
So now I get to deal with this. Bike only has 9K on it.
Hub, sorry if I have trouble understanding you sometimes. At the top of this thread you say it's possible to start the bike, let it rattle a moment, then turn off, then re-start and the rattle will be gone? And not "gone until the next start", but gone?
I watched the video. So this is caused by a loss of prime and the smaller oil channel gets temporarily bypassed?
If a priming issue, why would my bike appear to have prime(quiet start up) and next time it loses it and rattles?
Just trying to figure out what I need to do to stop it. At the time I don't like the idea of a manual tensioner but hearing it rattle worries me. Just want to fix it.
I assume if I allow it to continue it'll damage the motor?

DogoZX, anyone...I'd like to know more about the ZX12's modified CCT.
Sounds good and I appreciate the pic's. But how was the spring size determined, etc, so you know it's applying the right amount of pressure? And you say it adjusts itself? What convinced you this is a good fix? Thanks.

No offense to Mr Bill Eason...I do not know his credentials but he has been a very active member on forums and seems very knowledgeable. Many people are trusting in BE's experience on CCTs and following his lead to go with a modded ZX-12 CCT rather than an APE. I just weighed my APE against the stock and found the stock is a bit lighter which is a bit of a pisser right off the bat. If it is simpler WTF couldn't hey make it at least a tiny bit lighter than stock? ha I know most people don't bother over .25 ounce but I can see no reason for the weight gain even as small as it is.

Dear Rookster...yer obsessed with 'weight'.I'm tellin ya...Kawasaki ALREADY figured all this out...she's balanced and weighted just where they want her to be!But I'm stickin with my TiForces and APE tensioner.The muzzy timing wheel is heavier as well.But I aint gonna reinstall that stocker.That's final .Besides,I think the PC III and the ballasts for the HID's make up for my weight reduction plans!(okay...let's not forget..those helis/genmars risers didn't help much either )And that shaved Connie seat...musta added at least 3 or 4 oz's to the bike... I figure,I need to add about 35 lbs to get er back stock weight.Hmmmmm...set of BST's aint gonna get me in the right direction,are they And my EBC's were lighter than those iron stockers...darn!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/18/2011 @ 1:23 AM *