I have an HID kit from DDM Tuning I'd like to install. I've removed what I believe are all the necessary fairings, tank, and battery. Are the battery terminals the ONLY (or best) place to connect the leads? I know where I want the ballasts to go (2 per side - they'll go between the rubberized section of the air intake and the fairings) but I'm unsure about the rest of it. The space is much tighter than I expected. Is the positive lead for the ballast cabling the one with the fuse?

* Last updated by: kixxit on 10/9/2015 @ 6:18 PM *

Well...you have it all accessible now...what's the instructions saying?I had these a long time ago(they didn't look quite like these though...the wiring that is)...I don't remember how I connected the Hot/Grnd leads.It has to be on a 'switchable' hot circuit.Something like the ignition switch.

Seems like the DDM's plugs(connectors)should plug into the factory harness plugs in there somewhere.I guess the ballasts can come off the battery?Since they're not drawing any current until the lamps light up?(key 'on')(through the factory harness plugs).

I know..I'm no help here with this.The instructions SHOULD tell ya exactly where stuff goes there.Maybe Google it?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/10/2015 @ 3:49 PM *

What kit is that?There's several on their site.

First off...you want to assemble all the plugs to where they go in the HID circuit.Get that out of the way.I can't tell by looking which plugs are going where...some of mine were already attached to the harness(es).They've apparently changed that a bit.Your bulb plugs there..they don't look right.(do not remove the cover on those bulbs!!!)They SHOULD be exactly like your factory bulb bases...that 'turn' into the factory metal socket there in the cowl.Do these?If not...send em back(unless they DO turn into that socket)(should(must)have three tabs on em).I can't tell with your pics...sorry.

I looked on their site for instructions for the zx14 setup...nothing.

These are the CORE dual HID's...you should have that base on yours...where it inserts into the cowl socket

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/10/2015 @ 4:28 PM *

KIT CONTENTS: DDM Tuning

Ultra HID Kit, 55W, H9, 5500K/HID-Harness

Ultra HID Kit, 55W, H11, 5500K/HID-Harness

Error Code Eliminator (PAIR)

I gotta prep my GSXR for the track tomorrow so I'll take more pix and provide a bit more info when I return. Thanks for the input thus far!

Have a safe track day!..I see the bases are protected with a plastic cover...they should be ok then.Looks like the harnesses go into the ballast then.Okay.These should work fine.Don't know about your hot lead though...maybe someone will chime in here that has these installed.Been a long time since I had these.

One thing I had to do with mine...way back when..was clip a VERY tiny piece off the one longer tab of the three tabs.So they all would go fully into the socket.You probably won't have to do that.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/10/2015 @ 10:15 PM *

Your ballasts look very different from mine.

My ballasts have an input (which you connect the original hadelamp harnessess into) and an output which connects to the terminals on the new arc lamps.

I had to extract the terminals from my OEM hadelamp harnessess in order to interface them with the ballast inputs, but other than that, the DDM kit I bought was plug n' play.

Ok, so I'm back from a 6 day excursion, and prior to that, a fun filled track day (crashed twice in the same corner, losing the fairings that hold the signal lights on the tail - everything else is possibly salvageable),and I've hooked up the HID hi-beams only, and......Nothing.

Do I need to put the tank back on and start the bike in order to get the HID's to light up? In addition, do both hi and low beams need to be installed at the same time for either or to work? I have a HID for the low beam only on my GSXR and it works fine with a halogen hi-beam.

The bike has to start before the lamps come on.(I should say...crank and fire)

I will install the cables as best I can and put the gas tank back on tomorrow. Results soon to follow...

I don't recall ever connecting the hot lead to the battery.That looks 'new' to me.Maybe they've done some updating with these now...IDK.As far as I remember...the harness(from the ballast)connected to the factory(headlamp) harness plug in there.Whatever works I guess?Curios why you removed the tank there?I certainly didn't need to?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/23/2015 @ 9:51 AM *

Are you sure you got the right kit?

The DDM tuning HID's that I put on my 14R were plug and play. Didn't even need to remove any plastics, it was tight tho.

Good luck!

I tried to blow myself up a few hours ago. As I was prepping to put the tank back on, I walked away, came back and cranked it up only to see gasoline shooting down to the ground. Yes, gents (and ladies, and _______) I forgot to connect the fuel line. After a bit of cleanup I went at it again. It turns out I did not need to remove the gas tank. I didn't know any better, and I know if I do blow myself up in the future, it won't be because I forgot to connect the fuel line. But I digress...

I had everything connected, but not quite installed. I left the bulbs in their protective shrouds. Grn14 suggested the bike needed to "crank and fire" before I would get any results. Not quite true - it can be tested without the gas tank - battery only. So when I crank it up....Nothing. I unplug everything and re-install the OEM bulbs and get the left side lights working but not the right which tells me I blew a fuse. I Go buy 15amp and 30amp fuses, installing the 30amp thinking the ballasts or whatever are drawing more current. This time, the lights come on - SUCCESS!!! So when I turn the bike off, the only thing that shuts down is the engine. The lights, LCD - EVERYTHING ELSE is still on - FAIL . I have the bulbs in the protective shrouds and I'm unplugging all the ballasts so I don't melt the shrouds but the electrical system won't shut down, so I pull the fuses and that works. SO.....

This must be related to the fact that I have the positive/negative leads connected directly to the battery, instead of some sort of switch/relay? I have NO CLUE as to where/what else I'd connect them to. Any suggestions? I'm going back to the website to see what's up.

* Last updated by: kixxit on 10/24/2015 @ 7:00 PM *

whew!...what a deal.eh?Yeah...I don't remember hooking a lead up to the battery.It has to go to 'key on' switch somewhere like you say.

MIA on the website. I'll try giving them a ring on Monday. This sux.

The input energy to the ballasts MUST come from the existing hadelamp harness.

HAGRID.... There is in fact a connection from the existing headlamp harness to the HID harness. There is a rubber grommet of some sort that separates the bulb and a connector that must (I'm assuming this because I can't see what else it could possibly plug into) connect to the original bulb harness. On the opposite side of the rubber grommet are connections for signal(?) and the ballast(?)

Anyway, this doesn't change the fact that there are positive/negative leads on the opposite end of the HID harness that go SOMEWHERE? Right? Do I just leave them hanging? If so, what powers the ballast and how does power route to it? Check out the 1st pic I posted. Please understand I'm not trying to be difficult. I'm just not seeing the whole picture. Bear with me.

You might try this...leave the leads(that have the eyes on em disconnected.You say all the plugs actually do connect to the factory harness?Okay...hook those in...leave the other two unhooked.See what that does.I can't imagine them putting a battery hot lead in that circuit.That'd mean..the ballasts were always 'on'.I would think anyway.Like you said...the key was off...but the lamp(s) were still on.No good.

"what powers the ballast and how does power route to it?"...the factory harness supplies the power when the key is turned on.It isn't coming directly from the battery with those two lines they have on there.IDK WHY they have those on there actually.That one has that fuse in it...that's for a surge or something into the ballast(I'm guessing)...but you don't need that in there.The factory lamp harness circuit already has a fuse in there at the rear fuse box.

If you do install...and get it to work...without those two 'extra' leads...be sure to tape the ends up on those...don't know if they could short against anything...but maybe?(once plugged into the factory harness)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/25/2015 @ 7:50 PM *

Hagrid, GRN14 - you were both right; and I was stupid wrong. I was so insistent that the wiring harness be part of the solution (because I payed for the damn things) that I ignored all other possibilities. I called DDM Tuning and they confirmed that all I needed was the ballast and the bulb to do the installation. I don't remember if I was given the wrong info from the company (I may have emailed them asking for info) or I assumed all on my own that I needed the harnesses. Either way, thank you both for hanging in there with me.

So yes, it took entirely too long but what the hell I learned something and I'll be a bit less timid to tackle issues in the future. I'm glad I didn't take it to a mechanic to install the HID kit because now if something goes wrong I'll know how to deal with it on my own. One thing that's bothering me a bit is the fairings don't seem to fit as well as they did prior (specifically, the tank cowl and the tank itself for that matter). Either that or I never noticed how large the gaps between the panels are prior to having to take them on and off a few times!

Glad ya got er dun!

Can you take a pic of the cowl seams there?You may have gotten the wrong tab in the wrong order on those...sounds like maybe you did.Take some pics...All the seams that are 'not quite the same as before'....

the tank cover has two slots on it...they slide into the metal welded tabs(with the rubber ends)on the tank forward top.If you miss those when reinstalling...the cover will sit on TOP of those...and you will have a pretty good gap between tank cover and tank itself at the front there.Plus...the other projections and such won't be fitting flush like they need to be.It will affect all the seams in the upperfairing and midfairing.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/26/2015 @ 9:19 PM *

Good point - I don't know if I accounted for the slots or not. I'm guessing 'not'. I'll be back at it in the morning!

Okay...well...it looks to me like ...
1)the tank cover is not attached to the tank tabs on the top.If you remove the cover to reinstall...make sure the tabs are not bent upward.Or too flat against the tank itself.

2)The pic of the tank cover and midfairing seam appear to be a result of the tank cover not sitting low enough because it's riding on top of the tabs on the tank....

3)CRITICAL!!!!!...that seam there...on the tank cover...there's a projection on the inside of it.That projection is NOT in place.It goes into the midfairing tab under there.Here's the deal....you need to remove the sidecover.Now...install the tank cover.See the projection behind it there?It goes into that midfairing grommet.Apply a small amout of spit onto that projection.Make sure the tab has the grommet in it.NOW...HOLD THE TAB with your right hand(fingers)from behind it...and gently push the projection in the grommet with your left hand(fingers).Also make sure the top projection is aligned and in the upper tank tab there...also has a grommet.

4)The tank cover has that 'hook'(called this in the manual)...the tab with the hole that goes OVER the frame bracket.Make sure the midfairing('hook')tab is on the bracket FIRST.Then the tank cover tab over that.Also...you shouldn't need to...BUT...if there's still a gap in there...that frame bracket CAN be slightly bent down to tighten the seams along there.

5)The side pic of the midfairing...I'm not sure what is causing that gap.It looks like perhaps the inner upper fairing there is not correctly installed somehow...like maybe at the front of it up inside the cowl?If you removed it...and reinstalled...you have to slide the tabs into the slots on that inner fairing piece(slots along the tank cover edge right there)Your tank cover not being correctly seated could cause a misalignment at that area.Take a look.The midfairing/cowl pieces look correctly aligned and in their correct spots.

Thanks again Grn14, I got a much better fit now!

Glad it all worked out for ya!