Just thought I'd share a little tip that I found last week. It made my transitions so much smoother. I was finding that when switching sides, the bike was getting unsettled, giving quite a wiggle through the middle of my change in direction. What I was doing was standing on the pegs too much, using them to "lift" up and shift my butt across, and I was "pulling" against the bars to help shift my weight. I read that I should use my outside leg to "squeeze" both knees up together against the tank, pulling your butt into the center using your inner thighs, then slide the butt over the other side in one motion. I practiced it on the weekend and it seemed to just fall into place. I could stay "soft" on the bars, the bike did not get unsettled, and made the transitions twice as fast.
Don't know if anyone can correct, confirm or add to this, but I found it a huge help.

Same here. I also noticed that I was having trouble doing the transition. I'll try that idea. Thanks

Still getting my needed things for a track day. But it looks like it'll be next spring before I am ready

But I plan to still go to the next session in mid august and do the "test the track " thing and watch and learn what I can as a spectator.

That's perfect Sweet! When I am pushing hard I focus on dragging or sliding my ass across the seat, never the lift and plant. Smooth is fast. And upon exit of last transition corner apex I kinda hold my body position so as to maximize throttle grip, as bike is standing upright I THEN slide back to center while holding WOT, and trying to time my shift off the reflection of the shift lamp in windscreen.
Man I love this freakin machine!

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/21/2014 @ 10:33 PM *

Here are a couple of articles that may help. Do a web search there are a number of articles and videos

Your text to link here...

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This link to sportrider.com was really helpful too. Got it bookmarked for future reference.
If I can make one suggestion though, don't read too much at once to the point it becomes overwhelming. Just pick up on a couple of things you want to work on, and go with them until you're ready for more.

* Last updated by: sweetfa65 on 7/22/2014 @ 1:14 AM *

Your Welcome. Ive done about 30 track days over the last 3 year's. Its worth the fee to do one track day. Not only for the experience but also will improve your every day riding skills and lets you get better aquainted with what your bike and you are capable of. Check out a few of your local trackday providers as the sometimes do riding seminars at local dealership or parts supliers like cyclegear and such at some bike nite events. A lot local riders clubs do too

Are you tracking your 14R, Casper, or something else?

been doing track days on my streat/race preped 06 zx10.. ZX14 is setup more for the 1/4 mile and street racing..but will still corner decently..

here's a pic of both girls together

* Last updated by: Blkcasper on 7/22/2014 @ 7:48 PM *

Sweet bikes

Nice!

I spent 3 years tracking my 10R, with a few other bikes before that. Now I'm running an SXV 550 and my 14R out there. Talk about two totally different machines. The 14R isn't the scary one, either!

So I hear a lot about how the 14r is a big girl but I'm sure that's relative to other big bikes, right? I had an FJR AE pushing 700lbs loaded, that was nuts when you needed to tighten your line up. Great bike but sold and never looked back.

If I get a 14R can I expect it to carve as good or better than my Blackbird did? My FJR felt like a football field from my torso to the front wheel and ever since owning a KTM SMT I've experience the glory of how those handle and the benefit of controlling the bike hanging over the front wheel.

I know the 14R ain't no supermoto, it's more of a dragbike at heart, does that mean it also feels heavily rear-wheel biased? It's nearly impossible to get a test ride on one of these.

Thanks

* Last updated by: Auron on 7/26/2014 @ 10:04 AM *

Sport bike:
Does: mean a one hit wonder.
Does not: offer comfort.

Does: handle as in buy and race.
Does not: fit the bill about touring one.

Does: have a lot of hp.
Does not: have the torque of the torque.

Does: have the ability to drag race.
Does not: have the bells and whistles.

14R
Does: have 3 avenues to choose from.
Does not: have a single focus as the sport bike has one focus is the sports superb handling.

Does: handle well for its size and the weight it carries. Note 'well' vs. 'outstanding' when it comes to handling.
Does not: hesitate to act like one.

Does: carry a more comfortable package of gear and passenger.
Does not: cramp the limited space of two up on an ever shrinking sport bike is that choice.

Does: come with more bells and whistles if one likes to run a closed course of the 1320.
Does not: disappoint is this 1 out of 3 venues to take on this bike.

Does: wear the badge of the, 'world's most powerful.'
Does not: include flash is.

Does: that blow up your skirt?
Does not: then this is not your kind of bike.

I think the 14R is the finest handling big bore bike made thus far. Get the suspension set up correctly, slap some sticky 190/55 profile rubber or larger on there, and she will eat a lot of machines even at the track. There was a fella at the track with a blackbird recently, at any lean angle the 14R had him covered. The 14R feels stable and refined and confidence inspiring at lean. Pick a quality steering dampener and ride the wheels off of her! IMHO.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/26/2014 @ 2:51 PM *

On the street there is that safety margin we leave naturally on corner entry and apex, but on corner exit is where most of us have a little fun, and playing to her strengths follows naturally. 70% entry speed and hard exits are soo much fun. Makes for a capable sportbike with great ergos and solid handling and more thrust than everything. Touring capable intercontinental ballistic missile.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 7/26/2014 @ 6:22 PM *

With smooth inputs and some planning the 14R carves pretty well. It won't pull superbike lean angles, but it gets pretty damned close. Once you get rolling the 580lb weight is pretty easily ignored.

Better tires and some suspension adjustment will have you carving any back road with ease, and absolutely SMOKING a Blackbird. Mid-line adjustments and rapid side to side transitions are plenty easy on this bike. I was very surprised by its ability to carve.

A quote from this months Motorcyclist magazine, in a column written by Keith Code, the originator of riding schools and trackdays:

"Students at our school always begin the day riding the track in one gear without using brakes-unless they grossly misjudge a corner, obviously-and with the speedos covered up. This isolates their sense of speed and improves their ability to accurately gauge corner-entry velocity. Student reactions vary from fear to scoffing. By the day's end, however, many riders are still riding without braking or braking only slightly, taking satisfaction in exploring and enhancing their perception of speed. With or without brakes, the correct speed must already be in the rider's mind, in his own personal language, to succeed."

No mention of smoking anything in his writings.

* Last updated by: Danno on 7/27/2014 @ 7:22 AM *

If you were a little smarter you'd realize how dumb you are.

Who looks at their speedometer when carving the twisties? The only time I ever look at the speedometer is when I see that cop ahead. As for braking in curves, I rarely use brakes unless I am on a steep downgrade where brakes are an absolute necessity.

The problem with going fast on mountain curves is you cannot really see what is on the other side of the curve when you have a hillside in the way. I was cranking it up big time in the Sierra this week and came hot around a curve, and I spot a fireman standing on the other side of the road waving his arms for me to slow way down. I slowed, came round the curve to find some pickup truck had rolled over and was in my lane. At least where I live, you can't really bring the bike to its full potential on curves except the rare spots where you have a clear view of the road ahead.

This guy may be waiting for you around the bend:

* Last updated by: OpenRoad on 7/27/2014 @ 11:57 AM *

My girl does pretty good for sure.... I need new lower side plastics to boot cuz she likes the twisties so much.

On the tail of the dragon

I can't believe I'm about to do this, given the way the rest of this forum reacts to track based knowledge, but...

If you drop your head and inside shoulder down, drape the outside arm across the tank and scooch that ass over a tad, you'll get a lot more corner speed before you start mangling the lowers. Think of giving your inside mirror a kiss... That will get you close.

Yes, I am obvioulsy still learning, but what was said above by trailboss........That is what I strive to keep working at and improve upon; keeping the bike more upright and sliding off the seat (not twisted but keep body perpendicular to bike) in order to get weight to the inside.

Cause more upright means more traction.

* Last updated by: ZX14MAN64 on 7/29/2014 @ 8:13 PM *

Hanging off and keeping the bike upright also gives you more room to add lean and tighten up a line at street speeds, assuming you're keeping a little bit in reserve.

I've had plenty of oh-shit moments coming around a blind right-hander only to discover debris in my line. Can't go into oncoming, so time to tighten it up! With the bike more upright for any given speed, I've got lots of room to lean it further.

* Last updated by: TRAILBOSS on 7/29/2014 @ 8:20 PM *

Ok with all the info here There are a few things to process and to be pointed out. My experiencees
1. Street riding is totally different from riding on a track. There are many differences.
A. On the track you can focus on speed, corner lines, entry/exit lines without any major distractions.
B. support and info and instruction on riding skills.
C. On the street there are many more things to look out for.
D. Track speeds on the street..asking for trouble.
E. On the streets its better to follow the PACE RULE. A lead rider sets a pace and for the route depending on rider abilities of the group. Different rider skills , different group pace speeds and groups established

For guys without a track near by. My suggestions for praticing/testing you street skills at cornering is to pick a road that has a good amount of twists and turns on say a 10 -15 mile stretch of road that is lightly traveled and in good condition. This more for formility with your bike and how it handles and current road conditions. To start out take this road in say 1st gear. Run it up to red line. Wont hurt her. Run this stretch of road usuing just the throttle and engine braking. Using the brakes only as need and as a last resort. You'll be surprised at the speed you can maintain. Run road in reverse. Will feel like a totally different road.
Got that covered. Do same road in 2nd gear up and down to red line. Same process. Trust me on this bike thats all the shifting you'll need on most roads. Ok now run it in 3rd gear. Same process. You'll probably find you need to down shift into 2nd. Idk. Hope this helps someone.

There are also a number of ways to handle cornering on the bike. Body position as to , Leaning off the bike to keep it up more up rite, counter stering the bike, 2up riding and position of rider and passenger. Weight distribution when sport turing with gear and passenger. On and on...

Just an observation, here, and not picking on you in particular, Casper. It seems like everyone here is equating track skills with track speeds.

You don't need to run to the ragged edge on the street to exercise the techniques you learn at the track. Body position, line control and lane placement, variable/risk management, trail/emergency braking, rev matching, vision... All of these things are applicable to street riding.

More importantly, when you learn to use these skills in a closed environment like a track, you can exercise them at speeds that you'd never try on the streets. Once you head back out into the wilderness of street riding, the slower overall pace will leave you feeling much more comfortable and calm. Your ability to perform any given skill will be much more natural at a street pace if you've mastered it at a track pace.