Far as I know, there are two modules for correcting the speedo reading for stock error or tire/sprocket mods on our bikes. Both are also used to derestrict the top speed limiter in racing applications.

First, the SpeedoHealer which is the old standby. I am told to get the SpeedoHealer V4.0 (which is the latest, I presume). That little LED readout is cool.
What does the number indicate?

Does not look like something I should install under my seat with other electronics. Would I need to have access to the buttons often?

I often hear that it is difficult to calibrate this device. Agree, disagree?

Can any SpeedoHealer be swapped over to any bike or is the module/wiring designed to work with specific bikes only (like a Power Commander is made specifically for one type of bike and will not function if swapped over to a different model)?

Next we have the Bonneville Pro which is made by Muzzys for the ZX-14. I don't know anything about it other than they claim it is much easier to use.

"How is this better than a speedohealer? With the Bonneville Pro, you don't need to change the box when you want to run top speed runs," <<<What does that mean? Change the box?

Would I need to access the buttons on the Bonneville often or would it conveniently be located out of sight under the seat?

Which do you like best or are you aware of any others speedo correction/derestriction modules?

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/18/2010 @ 12:06 PM *

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I just read up on the bonneville box. It derestricts the 14 while stil showing your actual speed, very cool, and one thing the speedohealer V4 I have doesn't do. But the bonneville looks alot more complicated to program as far as figuring out your percentages to put in. You have to do all your own calculations. The speedohealer site has an online calculator that does all that for you, you just put in the actual mph you're going (I used a gps) and what the 14's speedo is showing, then it gives you the correction percentage you need. And the V4 is super easy to set up. It really couldn't be any easier. You enter the percentage into the speedohealer by holding down, then pressing the buttons for the percentage digits. It also has a button you hold for a couple seconds and it switches between 2 "settings". One is your accurate everyday setting, the other one is one you purposely set to read low, which derestricts the 14 since the restrictor runs off the speedo. If the speedo reads artificially low, you're derestricted

I mounted mine right under my instrument console so I have easy access to it. The only drawback is for high speed runs you need a gps since your speedo will be reading way low. I prefer my gps for the high speed stuff anyway, because even corrected the speedo's are still off at the higher speeds unfortunately. I've found that out through testing at lower speeds up to the upper triple digits. My corrected speedo is right on at legal highway speeds up to about 100, but starts getting more and more off the faster I go. The speedohealer if I remember right has one model for most all kawasaki's, and its a plug in affair, no wires to cut or splice. The V4 also has a top speed recall button, it saves your highest top speed in its memory permanently, and with a push of the button sweeps the speedo up to that speed when the ignitions on. I noticed in the bonneville box directions you have to cut and splice 2 wires coming out of your ecu, plus plug it in. Not a big deal if you do a nice thorough job of splicing Didn't see anything about the bonneville having a top speed recall tho.

Already having the V4 I think I would buy it again over the bonneville just because I really like its simplicity to install and use, and they make a great product. Plus I think its about 50 bucks cheaper or so. I have the old version on my busa, which was much more of a pain to program. But its worked flawlessy since I installed it on the busa in 04. And the 14's has worked just as well.
It would be kind of cool to have your bike derestricted tho and still have the speedo read right all the way up

Hey Bad...what is your speedohealer set at now?The reason I ask is.....I spoke to THE MAN at the speedohealer site..can't remember his name right now....I asked about the derestriction deal myself.He said....-9% will derestrict the zx14(this is with stock gearing...which the site states to set your healer at -7.5...right in there somewhere)So that amount(-7.5) WILL NOT DERESTRICT the 14..BUT will allow accurate speed reads and recall function.My bike right now with 16/42 gearing is set at (I think)somewhere around -12 something,maybe a shade less.So my bike IS derestricted...as is yours if you have programmed in anything past a -9%.I know mine is allowing my bike to pass the limiter...I made a 190 mph run this last year.That's all I could squeeze out of her with my gearing.She's been set with the website calibration for "estimated"...and when matched with a GPS...she was dead on.Like you,I've checked er at various speeds with my gps....into the 150 range and further....she was accurate...there was no fluctuation from the higher speeds and the lower ones.

There is actually another way to get an accurate read.Since the speedohealer has the function of recalibrating the ODOMETER,you can get your healer in the ballpark.THEN,as your riding...whatever speed,count the seconds from the time you pass a mile marker,to the next,and watch your odo.It should change to the next mile at the same amount of seconds that it did the previous mile.Do that for several miles...pass the marker..count the seconds till odo change,and it will be the same IF the healer is set at the correct speed.That's a good way to verify if she's set correctly.You can then adjust up or down,whichever,with the module...small increments at a time till you get er dialed in just right(Assuming you don't have a GPS).It takes a tad more "work" doing it like this,but it will work fine.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/18/2010 @ 2:17 PM *

My corrected speedo is right on at legal highway speeds up to about 100

HUHUHUUHhhaaa! Legal highway speeds up to ~100. I won't be going over 60, of course.

I noticed in the bonneville box directions you have to cut and splice 2 wires coming out of your ecu, plus plug it in. Not a big deal if you do a nice thorough job of splicing Didn't see anything about the bonneville having a top speed recall tho.

Thanks for pointing out the wire cut, Bad. Glad you noticed that. I didn't even cut the tag light wire doing my DIY fender eliminator. Getting less picky about that after 3 years but still don't want to do any irreversible modding.

Top speed recall. I don't see that either......

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/18/2010 @ 3:03 PM *

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Didn't see anything about the bonneville having a top speed recall tho.

Confirmed by owner of Bonneville Pro-- does not recall top speed.

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3 SpeedoHealer v.4's here. Great product. Easy to setup, easy to install, and easy to change between settings to overcome the TS limiter. Thing is if you're adding shorter gearing and adjusting for accurate speed, you're gonna have it set somewhere around -10%, so you're never gonna hit the limiter anyway. I'd use the Bonneville Pro if I was running taller gearing, say for top speed runs or if my bike had power adders like a turbo or supercharger.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 12/19/2010 @ 2:10 PM *

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The guys at BL are recommending the SpeedoHealer V 4.0 also. A couple like the Bonneville. I think both units have there pro and con. The SH won't show you your correct speed if you want to use it as a derestrictor. The Bonneville requires that a wire be cut.

if you're adding shorter gearing and adjusting for accurate speed, you're gonna have it set somewhere around -10%, so you're never gonna hit the limiter anyway.

There is no way I would be able to do much over 160 with 17/45 gearing. If the speedo is on the money, top speed will never be indicated because the bike won't do top speed. The rider would be able to top out the bike without hitting the limiter and see his speed accurately the whole time.

I'd use the Bonneville Pro if I was running taller gearing, say for top speed runs or if my bike had power adders like a turbo or supercharger.

..because in that situation, you would be hitting the speed limiter and you would want to see your true speed indicated on the speedo without kicking in the limiter, of course.

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"The SH won't show you your correct speed if you want to use it as a derestrictor".The Speedohealer WILL show the correct speed AND derestict IF you are in the proper setup.Stock setup...it will not be derestricted because the derestriction ability does not happen until -9% or more is programmed in.So your stock setting is going to be around -7.5%.It will hit the limiter with that.Anything above -9 will derestrict...and allow a correct speedo to function....like....16/42...okay.Healer set for 16/42 gearing is around -12 something(for speedo correction).This WILL derestrict AND have a correct speed.BTW...I hit 190 with this setup.So lower gearing (except in extreme cases)won't necessarily mean you can't get past 186).

At 17/45...the healer will be set to -13.6.PLENTY of margin for bypassing the limiter AND correcting your speedo.IDK where those guys are getting their info from....

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/19/2010 @ 5:46 PM *

(QUOTE)
My bike right now with 16/42 gearing is set at (I think)somewhere around -12 something,maybe a shade less.So my bike IS derestricted...as is yours if you have programmed in anything past a -9%.I know mine is allowing my bike to pass the limiter...I made a 190 mph run this last year.That's all I could squeeze out of her with my gearing.She's been set with the website calibration for "estimated"...and when matched with a GPS...she was dead on.

Blue,
Something seems off on your Speedohealor/GPS calibration. A 16/42 combo on Gearing commander's website, shows 187.7 MPH @ the rev limiter. With Aero/traction/frictional losses, Top speed would be closer to 184. Checking out some of the LSR posts with their gearing and speed numbers, these numbers seem correct.

* Last updated by: Cutback on 12/19/2010 @ 5:44 PM *

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Nope...look at the RPM adjustments....set to 11,500(which is what I was hitting).Now look at the top speed for those rpms.They are actually HIGHER than my setup would allow.But she did bypass and run over 186.

Now if you have 18/44...which would most likely carry you above 200....your speedohealer would be set for -6 something.Your speedo would read correctly...but she'd stop accelerating at the limiter(186).So you would need a GPS read and a healer setting of anything above -9%.May as well at that point program in -12% and call it good...getting your top speed read from the GPS.You speedo will not be correct with this type of setup/setting.But you will never hit the limiter at that percentage.You'll run out of gearing first.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/19/2010 @ 5:58 PM *

Blue,
Your rev limiter will kick in about @ 10,800RPM (actual),as evidenced by most all dyno sheets you read, including mine.

* Last updated by: Cutback on 12/19/2010 @ 5:59 PM *

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All I can say is....she was at 11,500.Topped out.So...IDK.Almost every run I make she digs into the redline...11,200,...11,500.She easily passes 10,800.Upshifting as well...always,if I choose to do it,she'll shift up into the limiter spot.I know cause she'll scare the shit outta me when she starts burblin!(cause I forget I'm that far into it).IDK...10,800????Hmmmm.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/19/2010 @ 6:04 PM *

My bike and a couple of buddies read around 11,500, (give or take) but, actual RPM's @ rev limiter (not speed limiter) is around 10,800. Just like our speedometer's being off a little, our tach's are also happy.

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Well...whatever it is then...it's showing 11,500.Then she stutters.The speedo gives the read out.The Gps confirmed the top run.IDK.

That's what I'm sayin' bro. Mine also reads 11,500 + or - but, dyno charts show actual to be 10,800 + or -

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OMG you guys. There's no point in even asking any questions until i mess with my own SH. I didn't understand half of that. Good to know you can still wind 'er around the clock on shorter gearing. I'm not betting on that being a possibility with 17/45.

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Now hold on....Rook...what's goin on?I've read a bunch of your different posts here..you always seem to understand,and give plain simple knowledge about your bike and stuff.What's puzzlin me is Cutback now.Cutback....I aint sure I understand what you're sayin about the RPM(redline) readouts.I mean...okay,I can see that part where it "could" be readin a tad high on the tach...but what does that have to do with a GPS's speed that's accurate? I must be misunderstanding this deal here.You're NOT saying she's actually redlining at 10,8....but being limited at 10,8?(which is actually showing 11 something,right?)I've never heard of a tachometer being "happy" on a bike like ours.If it is limiting at 10,800...I don't see why Kawasaki even bothered to indicate a "redline" area then.What would be the point,if it's not gonna hit it ever.

You can tell when you're hitting the limiter.At 190 and 11,500,there was NO limiting going on with mine.The only thing stopped er from going faster was the gearing(and perhaps some wind conditions and temps?).And you're saying she wasn't even at 10,800 then?Interesting.You know the manual says...STAY OUT OF REDLINE.Okay...why?If she'll only go to 10,8?IDK...just wondering that's all.I mean,the limiter is going to stop the engine from being damaged,right?Regardless of what the tach is showing..Not sayin yer wrong or anything,so please don't take it that way.This thing with the rpms deal just isn't sinkin in for me right now.I just can't see why Kawasaki would have a redline area knowing that the engine will never get to it.If you look at the speedo...she goes past 180...all the way to 200 if you could assume that the distance between the 180, and 190 marks would be an accurate measurement for measuring on the speedo dial above 190 to a possible 200.They KNOW the bike will go well over 186 derestricted.It can do that easily with the right setup.So why put a redline on there that will never be approached.THAT's what I don't see.The speedo's a whole different story...you CAN hit above 186...past 190 and on up.So they put that on there.WHY?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/20/2010 @ 2:13 AM *

Blue, Cutbacks right about the 10800 actual redline, its the same with the busa's. For whatever reason the actual redline on the bikes is lower than what it shows on the tach. All the companies do it. Most likely something to do with us wanting to see higher redlines, so they do it for better sales? Or maybe liability reasons similiar to the purposely optimistic speedo's?

I'm only running one tooth up in back on my 14 so my gearing isn't too far off from stock. Its been long enough since I set my speedohealer now that I don't remember what I set for my accurate speedo setting. For the derestriction side Brock and most of the LSR guys set the percentage VERY low. The speedohealer site I think even mentioned Brocks setting for derestricting. They go extra low to cover things like wheelspin on salt or dirty tracks at mega speeds (which can really add up), as well as the optimistic speedo itself. I believe I set my derestricted percentage at -20 + my corrected percentage, so I'd be taking 20% off the indicated corrected speed, and at least give me an idea of the speed I'm going. In other words theoretically 100 would be 80 indicated, 200 would be 160 indicated corrected speeds. Makes the speedo accurate and still semi useful that way even derestricted and you can also get more than a 190mph reading out of the speedo, which is nice Because of the gentlemens speed agreement, they gave us a speedo with too low of a range for any high speed runs with mods. The 14 will do 190 stock in the right conditions, which makes the stock speedo kinda pointless once you add any go faster parts. It really needed a 220mph speedo like the first year busa's came out with lol.

Blue I'm not sure why my speedo seemed to gradually get more off as my speeds increased and yours didn't? It could be my GPS unit, I never have fully trusted it. I'll try some more runs to verify my findings...and maybe even try another GPS unit

And Rook sorry about that "legal 100mph highway speeds" thing....nothing legal about that lol. But I break the speed limit in a fairly big way every time I ride my bikes.......I guess its ALL "legal" to me anymore

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 12/20/2010 @ 2:52 AM *

Okay...I'm not sayin yes or no about the tach reads....but I'll show five different dynos here...you guys be the judge(one of em is Brock's or Muzzy).Notice the top rpms.?????

these are zx14's...stock electronics I'm guessing.On the top one...with the three separate runs,the bottom run is showing about 100 (or maybe more) LESS rpms than the top two.Why would a factory limiter fluctuate like that?(assuming of course they had er cranked wide open).

These are only 5 dynos.Notice the "flies out" run by Muzzys(or brocks) are hitting 11,000.They aren't limiting at 10,800.I also don't know the years of these bikes here.MAYBE...they did some top end limiting electronically on the later models?IDK.If the dyno is to be believed as accurate...then at least 4 out of 5 are passing the 10,800 limiter.I think my tach is accurate....I suppose I could get a portable tach and hook it to the stick coil...then hit a high speed run.See what she reads.Yes...I think that'll be one of my new year's projects.Should be fun!!!

I've got a question here then.Looking at these results...I'm guessing that these bikes were running stock gearing.Now...if changing the gearing affects the speedo...and correcting the speedo electronically by "reporting" false inputs to the ECU(or whatever the limiter is connected to),then why couldn't the max rpm be raised just as the 186 is bypassed by tricking the limiter into thinking it's going slower?I mean...if she's doing say 190 at 10,8...then lowering the "speedo" input would naturally "raise" the possible rpms then,yes?It wouldn't lower the rpm limit...it would think it's "low" at whatever the speedo was set at,yes?So you would actually get MORE rpms and higher speeds,right?But the tach doesn't change as the speedo does.You can run a setting of -90...I did it.At 100 mph,the speedo was reading like 35.The tach remained accurate.The more (negative)- percentage on the healer,the more leeway you have to travel faster than the 186.So I'm thinkin that the gearing is the critical piece in this.If the drive gear is smaller...the motor's gonna go faster,yes?The ecu is gonna read "faster" rpms than a stock 17.It's gonna die at 10,800....but the healer allows it to go faster than 10.8 apparently....into the redline territory.It has to,right?So I guess what I'm sayin is...I think my tach was accurate at 11,5.My gearing is 16/42.The motor's spinning faster at 186 with the 16 than with the 17.IDK....this seems right to me?I think the "limiter" is dependent on front sprocket/rpm values.We know the speed sensor is reading the countershaft bolt edges as it turns.Somehow...you've got to slow the "reads" down to increase top end speed.She's got to be delimiting above 10,8.So I think my 11.5 is accurate.Can't say about stock gearing.We know she won't get past 186 with that.That's a "match" to the ecu/limiter..engine speed.

Like I said...the guy at healtech personally wrote me and said...with my gearing,anything above(more negative)-9 would bypass the limiter.Mine is at -12 something.It just works out that my setting is the correct one for my gearing...to correct for gearing and factory error)..yet it also allows the delimiting ability.At your factory gearing,a -7.5 will correct your speedo,but not lower the limiting rpms(10,8...if indeed that's what it is)so she'll run faster(personally,I don't think 10.8 is correct).The speedo is accurate(when healed right),and I believe the Tach is also accurate.She's not limiting at 10,8.With my gearing,she'd never get close to 190 if she did limit at 10.8

And on those dynos...it's clear they're hitting 11,000 with assumed stock gearing.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/20/2010 @ 3:49 AM *

Looks like they're all going to 11000 or below. For the most part it does seem to follow suite with what I've come across in all my reading (too much actually lol). I've pretty much found out through different sources (forums, dyno threads, shop owners, charts like these, mag articles etc etc) that the tachs read high. As to why I'm not sure. Plus like you said rev limiters themselves can seem to vary slightly from bike to bike. My friend has a stock gsxr-1100 that hits the rev limiter at almost 13k on the tach, and the indicated redline is 11500 I believe I'm trying to remember how optimistic the 14 was supposed to be. The busa is 5-700 rpms high on the tach if this old brain remembers right, I think the 14 was about the same. I haven't read the info in ages tho so don't quote me on that lol. So that means if you hit the limiter at 11500 indicated it could actually be around a true 11000 to 10800 or so. I do remember reading 10800 actual for either the busa or the 14, but since I own and research both, I'm not positive which one it was Like I said, sometimes I think I've read more info than this old brain can safely store.......internet overload

Unfortunately I do know that for whatever reasons the companies set the speedo's and tachs to read high. Yamaha had a huge issue a few years ago when they claimed their new R6 had a 16000+ redline I believe. People flocked to the machine because of that stratospheric redline. Then the truth came out that the bike actually only redlined at a little over 15000 I believe. The public outcry got so bad that yamaha offered to buy back any owners bike who wanted a refund........all over a redline number on a tach. Things that make you go hmmm

(Quote)
Like I said...the guy at healtech personally wrote me and said...with my gearing,anything above(more negative)-9 would bypass the limiter.Mine is at -12 something.It just works out that my setting is the correct one for my gearing...to correct for gearing and factory error)..yet it also allows the delimiting ability.At your factory gearing,a -7.5 will correct your speedo,but not lower the limiting rpms(10,8...if indeed that's what it is)so she'll run faster(personally,I don't think 10.8 is correct).The speedo is accurate(when healed right),and I believe the Tach is also accurate.She's not limiting at 10,8.With my gearing,she'd never get close to 190 if she did limit at 10.8

Blue,
This statement makes me think you are possibly confusing the (speed limiter) with the (rev limiter)?
You are over analizing this? B N B did an excellent job of describing whats going on.
Let's go back to my post.

(Quote)
Something seems off on your Speedohealor/GPS calibration. A 16/42 combo on Gearing commander's website, shows 187.7 MPH @ the rev limiter. With Aero/traction/frictional losses, Top speed would be closer to 184. Checking out some of the LSR posts with their gearing and speed numbers, these numbers seem correct.

I was simply trying to tell you that you can NOT be going 190+ with a 16/42 combo. You WOULD hit the REV limiter.
This is common knowledge. Thus, something is off. Maybe you calibrated you speedhealor @ 60,90,or 120MPH?
Your speed inaccuracy on the corrected speedometer is not necessarily linear.( It never is) So, (for example), If you calibrate your speedo @ 100 MPH to be spot on, then, make a run, your speedo now shows you doing 200MPH, you can not assume that your speed is correct, just because you calibrated it to be spot on @ 100MPH.
Maybe your GPS is off a little? IDK, All the Dyno charts you posted as B N B pointed out clearly show rev limiters kicking in from, + or -, 10,600 - 11,000RPM, Like I said, 10,800RPM, + or - is the rev limiter ceiling on these bikes and accepted in most all knowledgable circles unless electonics have been installed to raise the limiter ceiling. Even then, valve float will most likely occur before an 11,500 RPM ceiling would be hit, thus necessitating HD valve springs.
Try this out..... In the spring, when you are making a High speed run, take (2) different GPS's and make your run. Forget about what your speedo or tach show. Average the two together, and you'll have a very close idea of where she's really at. None the less, Keep on Rippin' Blue!

* Last updated by: Cutback on 12/20/2010 @ 11:49 AM *

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Here's a thought: Perhaps the rev limiter allows the motor to zip between 10.8 and 11. It's limited at 10.8 but there is a slight delay that lets the motor climb 200 rpm to 11K? I could se that happenning at WOT. The motor can pickup 200 rpm in a split second at WOT and high rpm. The dyno graphs do show the engine making power to 11K. Personally, I believe that the tach is a bit optimistic. Still, I have seen the needle on my bike go past 11K indicated. This will happen for a split second between gears when the throttle and clutch application overlap/interact. There is an instant where the motor revs and the needle jumps. I don't think it is all inertia of the needle zipping up when the clutch is pulled. Seems like the motor is speeding up for a moment at the same time.

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Rook, Good observation!

In the charts Blue listed above:
1-10,600
2-10,900 (Brocks)
3-11,100
4-11,000 ? (stock ZX14's don't produce 150 ft. lbs torque)
5-10,900
_________
54,5000 divided by 5 = 10,900 ave.
or throw out high and low = 10,933 ave.
(No one any better than Brocks and a good example for comparison.)

Bear in mind we know nothing about these bikes, (ie- installed electronics)
What is a constant though is, Blue's bike and My bike. They both have NO electronics installed, elevating the limiter.
My bikes limiter, shows it kicking in @ 10,850 on chart. (Approx.11,500 on my tach) Blue's has not been dyno'd but, his tach reads 11,500 also. Guy's that eat,shit, and breath LSR will tell you the ZX14's rev limiter is about 10,800+or- We know that just like the speedo is off, so is the tach. These bikes have been out for 5-6 years. There aren't any new or hidden secrets. This is old news.

* Last updated by: Cutback on 12/20/2010 @ 11:20 PM *

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We know that just like the speedo is off, so is the tach. These bikes have been out for 5-6 years. There aren't any new or hidden secrets. This is old news.

Yes. I reading about that on the old forum back when the gen 2 first came out in early '08.

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