Need new sprockets and want to try something a little different than plain old OEM.

I need to first determine if lowering the gearing is something that will be good for me and then i need to decide on brand(s). Have a couple suggestions for brand already but first things first---

If I went to a 17/45 set up and i hated it, would it be feasible to replace the 45 tooth back to a 41 tooth sprocket and cut down and reconnect the chain I just put on-----or would I have to get a whole new chain again?

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/14/2010 @ 8:26 PM *

You fit 17/45 on your stock chain?

I couldn't even run 17/43 until after 3k miles worth of stretch on the stock chain. Your chain is stretched out like.... well.... oh nevermind.

You fit 17/45 on your stock chain?

No. I see how you read it that way but that is not what I meant. I went back and editted

Simply put, could I make a chain that fits 17/45 fit 17/41 if I cut the chain down and reconnect it?

My chain and gearing are all stock and I'm planning to replace all. This is all hypothetical. Hypothetical parts, hypothetical performance change--everything. I'm not sure if I am going to want or need shorter gearing. The high rpm would bug me for highway commutes and I have way more power and speed than I know what to with in second gear, 5K-6K rpm when cornering on the street even in my fastest sport riding.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/14/2010 @ 8:27 PM *

Ah ok... yes you could take out a link or two later. Not only that, a dragracer on PB or BL will snag that 45t from ya fast.

Maybe go 17/43, though. Not much but a little shorter gearing, and once your new chain stretches, if you want, you can go 44t or 45t on the rear.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 12/14/2010 @ 9:11 PM *

Down one in front....16T Zephyr...1995 model year.Has the noise dampeners on it.
42 rear steel sprocket.Leave chain alone unless she's just too long for an adjustment.This combo is a medium between aggressive acceleration,and top end performance.This combo will not adversely affect the ride quality(vibration),and will allow a good strong low end pull,which will be felt nicely when going to pass or roll on throttle.It will slightly affect your fuel mileage downward...but very little.Rpm's will remain only off by a few hundred in each gear,which will keep you in the "stockish" performance and comfort spot.You will notice a good difference however in acceleration.At all highway speeds.

16/43...you're getting into loss of top end now...and your Rpm levels are going to be significantly altered upward in each gear.Your vibration level will change as well..not necessarily in a negative way...but you will notice the higher Rpms.Shifting will become quicker and "easier" at higher Rpms.Downshifts will also be able to be made quicker and solidly without drama.You will lose top end.You may find you're only able to top out at 168 or so.Your low end is going to power up much quicker....you'll think something is wrong when you see how quickly "indicated speed" climbs on your speedo.Your shifts will be timed differently with this gearing...they will come up noticeably faster.You will feel like she's running out of Rpms as well.In 6th,you'll want to push harder by shifting again.

It's good if you want to wheelie,burn up tires,or have a strong sharp power-on entering or exiting curves.

You fuel mileage will definitely drop.You won't like that very much if you're trying to make miles.It will feel more like a torqued up racer than a sport touring bike.Can be a lot of fun however.To me, it just wasn't worth the increase of the "negative" factors(fuel,running out of top end gearing).

I stuck with 16/42.Best of both worlds for me.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/15/2010 @ 12:57 AM *

That cut chain is so borderline, you need to move the wheel fully forward. Lay the open chain over said sprocket and now will the links fall in a tooth? Now, will the sack between sprockets be enough, you can hardly move the rear axle back, rather you could use more forward axle to get your proper chain slack.

The link now has a neighbor [link] raised and as you have that link drop on that next tooth, you pulled the axle as far back as possible and now you need a 1/2 link to make it all happen correctly with axle spacing and chain slack. In other words, you are so borderline between that axle swing locking all the way forward or all the way back with a chain as tight as a guitar string or slack dragging so bad, the rear axle is as far back as it goes.

That one tooth change can swing in either direction, meaning. And the same goes for sprockets as it does for tires. You have to ask yourself which tire did not roll and equally wear down, they look different though, but did you rub both hands together to cause said friction on two moving parts?

Then, are not chain and sprockets 3 moving parts that hand rub you add your 3rd member and are we tearing up toof to chain gang? I'm going to guess with a, gulp; Yes.

blue >>> 1 +

Down one in front....16T Zephyr...1995 model year.Has the noise dampeners on it.

I stuck with 16/42.Best of both worlds for me.

That 16t is NOT the Kawasaki Stock 1995 Zephyr(1100 A4).You want...."OUTPUT SPROCKET...13144-1317...16T"...$30.00.(CheapCycleParts).As for the chain length...ya...I kept mine at 116.This even worked for a 16/43...but barely.17/43,nope...wouldn't fit(on mine).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/15/2010 @ 2:25 PM *

Thanks Blue. Looks like it will be quite a search to find that Zephyr sprocket. Don't see it at Cheap Cycle Parts--everything else on that bike but no output sprocket. I am sort of leaning toward sticking to stock gearing anyway. Sure would like to try something different. Like that Renthal but i don't know about going more than 41T. Guess i will have to see what this all will cost me in another set of new sprockets if I end up wanting to go back to 17/41. Really, I think stock gearing is plenty for my riding. Thanks for your help. Especially the description of various setups you have tried. Thanks for the benefit of your experience.

.....that blue anodized aluminum Driven would look cool. $70
DRIVEN sprockets

Renthal looks great.
RENTHAL sprockets

These manufacturers only have 41T, 42T or 43T for the ZX-14. Who makes a 45T for the 14?

Thinking out loud here fellas. Want 45T? Vortex. Comes in a great variety of sizes. Comes in 4 anodized colors and plain aluminum. They have blue for MiMi.
VORTEX

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/15/2010 @ 11:35 PM *

Renthal makes up to a 44t rear for the zx14...Renthal Sprockets

Vortex is all that I'm finding over 44t for the zx14... good thing I gotta run zx12r rears now.

Hey Rookster...you will see it on the parts fiche....under "Transmission"...95 Zephyr...it's the LAST motorcycle on that list of bikes.

Now don't give up so quick.Get that 16/42 combo on there...you'll like it.Not too extreme,but nicely strong.You can find steel rears 42T everywhere.Sunstar makes one.(that's what Kawasaki uses on the 14...but a 41 instead).Motorcycle Superstore has the Sunstars in steel.Bunch of other companies as well.I'd stay away from Aluminum....you won't get the mileage out of it that you would with steel(your 16T front's gonna stress that rear moreso than a 17,so steel would be best IMO).Other than that,Aluminum's fine.If you're replacing your chain...you need to get one that will have a tensile strength of 11,000 lbs.You're buying a chain tool as well?If you need any suggestions on what to do...let me know...I already broke one doing it "wrong"...so seriously...I know what NOT to do.They're simple to use anyway.Long as ya do it correctly!Aw what the heck....I'll just tell ya here.You need to grind off the rivet heads of the stock masterlink on the INSIDE of the chain first,being careful to not gouge the link plate with the grinder(a dremel would work perfect)(you probably COULD grind the outside heads off instead,and just push the link inward)Remove the link plate.Then apply your chain tool...pushing the masterlink outward towards the opposite direction.It'll slip free,then you simply remove the chain.That's IF you're replacing the link.Dumbazz me...I tried pushing the master out without grinding the rivet.One side actually did push through(a smidgen).But I kept cranking on the bolt to push more,and snapped the center pin pusher.MotionPro sent me a new one...just to be cool.It was cool.They were really good about it...even though their instructions said to grind off the rivet heads.I missed that part of it!

When ya reinstall the new plate and link,you want to have the "open" pins facing out,towards you.Then ya CAREFULLY squeeze the rivet heads "open"(mushrooming)just a tad.Not much.The link MUST be free to move up and down on both ends of the link.Any binding,gotta get that out by taking a chisel and tapping gently between link plate and chain inside plate on both ends of the link.Not much,just enough to free it up.Tighten it right the first time,you won't need to do anything else with it.It was my first one,so I wasn't exactly sure how far to mushroom the pin out.But it won't take much.Certainly nothing like "folding" the rivet pin end over.No way.Just a small amount to get the pin diameter a bit larger than the link plate hole.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/16/2010 @ 1:43 AM *

OK blue. Gotta get the Sprocket choice down first. Brand and gearing arrangement. Chain comes next but might as well address that on my "ring or no ring" chain thread I have going here. Don't worry . You'll see that one come back to the top.

Sounds like spockets are going to be about $100. I will try to pick my parts so I can go to 17/41 without buying another new chain---if i don't like the shorter gearing. Maybe go 16/41 and if I don't like, just get a $30 17T and make it stock.

I guess you can see I'm sorta leaning heavily toward staying 17/41. hah- oh well --that's what winter is for --thinking about stuff.

Pretty certain I am going with aluminum Renthal or Vortex. I expect it will wear quicker but that will be all the sooner that I can try a different set up.

Does anyone know of a table that will tell the number of links required for various gearing set ups?

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/16/2010 @ 2:08 AM *

I've seen guys run big bikes hard on well maintained aluminum sprockets and was VERY unimpressed. The sprockets started wearing and losing teeth way quicker than steel. One guy almost got stranded on a ride because of his rear aluminum sprocket shedding teeth. Plus when the aluminums gone its not going to do your chain any favors either, so you might end up prematurely replacing an expensive chain as well to keep things wearing at a reasonable rate. I've seen nothing good come from aluminum sprockets on high hp/torque street bikes for the long haul, and I'll never run them.....ever. The slight weight loss does nothing for the bikes performance, its strictly a mind thing. Leave them for the race track where they're designed for. Too many racetrack concessions for street use. Spend some time and do a google search and see what the majority opinion is. I already know...its steel, and for a reason The only lightweight sprocket I would consider would be the stealthsprox (which I believe might even have a lifetime warranty), it has an alloy center with a hardened steel tooth ring around the outside. Basically the best of both worlds, but spendy I run Driven steels on all my bikes and love them.

With a stock front 17 and stock length chain the most you can go on the rear is a 42 until the chain has 4-5k+ miles (depending on how you ride) on it and has stretched some, then you can squeeze a 43 on the rear. I think once you're 2 1/2-3 hash marks back on the swingarm the 43 will fit, but don't quote me on that lol. I heard that info a long time ago, and I'm tired. 1 tooth up in the rear made a noticeable and pleasant diff for me, I liked it. She wound up and accelerated quicker but kept the easygoing, smooth, relaxed feel that the 14 has stock. I geared my busa way down, and even tho its a rocketship now, its not near as pleasant on the highway. I went 16/42 on the busa which would equal 16/43 on the 14......too much imo. I think 17/43 or maybe 16/41 would be nice all round gearing for a piped/pc'd 14.

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 12/16/2010 @ 6:29 AM *

Rook...you will find your chain info at "gearingcommander".Lots of fun combos and their attributes on that site.

Thanks Blue for more great info.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

stealthsprox (which I believe might even have a lifetime warranty), it has an alloy center with a hardened steel tooth ring around the outside. Basically the best of both worlds, but spendy

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/16/2010 @ 10:36 AM *

Hey BNB! Good hear from ya!
How's the turbo project?
You still got an itch for a gen 1 10r? Check this one out: '04 zx10r w/ 750 miles and mods

I think this is the sprocket BnB was talking about
Stealth

...actually that price is not at all out of line considering this supplier is selling a chain/sprocket package.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/17/2010 @ 2:26 AM *

Can across these guys yesterday: RebelGears
They'll make you any size you want.

That Stealth deal there sounds pretty good to me.Ya....if I was getting a new setup...ya...I'd go with that...except get the 42 rear and a 16 front. Item Details Unit Price Quantity Total
STEALTH/D.I.D. 530ZVMX Super Street X'ring Chain & Sprocket Kit - KAWASAKI ZX-14R 06-10 - 16 - 42 - Nickel Plated $264.95 1 $264.95
Sub Total: $264.95

Please select a shipping method. Shipping Price
US Postal Service Priority Mail (2-3 day delivery to most of U.S.) $0.00

Total Amount: $264.95

You can't really go wrong getting this package.Looks very good to me.The ONLY thing I might add would be the Zephyr sprocket,and just keep the Stealth 16(or 17) they send ya with the package.Maybe contact em and tell em you don't need the front sprocket...see what they say...probably give ya a discount..if they ask,you could just tell em..."I'm going with a new Kawasaki dampened 16 up front(it's steel),so the package will actually be "new"...not just replacing the rear and a chain".I'd call em and see what they say.Regardless...you want 116 links on there IF they need to do any chain length modding.IF your intending to go up bigger in the back,and bigger in the front sometime up ahead,you might want them to increase the chain length to 118.I'm "pretty sure" you will still be able to use the 118 for a 16/42 combo..But NOT POSITIVE Your 116 will DEFINITELY fit a 16/42 setup.You could measure the distance from the axle to the adjuster blocks and see.Right now,mine is sitting at just 3 marks...so I've got plenty of room on mine for adjustment.116 links.Your bigger setup however may require adding links if ya go that way up ahead.That gearingcommander site can give you your chain length measurements...for a combo of 16/42 with a 118 link chain...it'll show ya which way the adjustment of the axle needs to move...then you just check on your axle "marks",and see if you have the room for the 118 to be adjusted for slack.If it'll do okay with the 16/42,it should be fine for a larger combo.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/17/2010 @ 11:45 AM *

I've decided on gearing. Going with stock 17T front and a 45T Vortex rear. If I decide I want to go all the way, I will keep the 45T rear, buy a 16T Zephyr front. 16/45 would probably work fine with the chain length that worked on the 17/45. No chain length adjustment needed!

If shorter gearing is too touchy for cornering or too much rpm for cruising, I'll just keep the 17T front, order a smaller rear and shorten the chain.

Hey Rook and everbody else, merry Christmas to you guys as well
And Dogo I've been dragging my butt on the turbo project, its mostly done, but other things have came up and I need to move it back up the list of priorities lol. I could have it finished and running in a week if I just spent a few hours a night on it, times just a little tight lately. Or a solid weekend of wrenching lol. And yes I'm always interested in a first gen 10, just can't make the purchase right now. We're going to be relocating to a place with no more winters.....man I can't wait. I'm so sick of shoveling snow and minus temps and limited riding weather. Arizona here we come

Rook like I mentioned in you're other gearing thread a 16/43 set-up on the 14 is going to be slightly lower than the 17/45 you're looking at. One tooth down in front equals about 2 1/2 teeth up in back. So the 16/43 would be a 4 1/2 tooth bigger change compared to the 17/45 being a 4 tooth bigger change. And Blue gave you a pretty good assesment a few posts up on his experience with the 16/43. A little too aggressive for him for the street, which is what I was kinda afraid of. Thats the same ratio I went up with my busa, 17/40 to 16/42, 4 1/2 tooth bigger diff. And the busa and 14 are geared very similiar as far as top speeds and rpms vs mph in gears. I felt the same way he did, just too much gear for everyday ridng, including highway. But it does give some brutal acceleration which is why my busa still has that gearing on it, and prolly will for who knows how long..............its just plain fun But for long rides it sucks I can understand you wanting to try it tho, just keep in mind my suggestions in the other thread (o-ring vs non o-ring) about using a 16 tooth front to really open up your options on sprocket swaps with a stock chain length and no cutting hassles

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 12/18/2010 @ 9:24 AM *

BnB From the chain thread

When you put a 16 tooth on the front it lets your wheel slide way back, and gives you room for much bigger rear sprockets, without all the breaking chains and adding/subtracting lengths. You could prolly go bigger than a 43, in fact I'd bet big money you could put a 44 or 45 on back all without having to touch the chain. And if you want to go back stock you have the stock length chain so all you're sprocket swaps would be bolt and go's.

a speedohealer is going to be a must have

Yeah. haha! I hope i'm not being a forum hog but I might actually start a thread on that. Speedo correction is at the bottom of the winter wrenching list but I have given that some thought. Planning on getting the Bonneville Pro which is made by Muzzy especially for the ZX-14. OK. I'm starting a Speedo correction thread. What the heck-
I just wished(now)that I pulled my axle back further when I cut the chain. Simply because I know I am never going the other direction again. You can always shorten but,,,,,,, U know the rest.

Romans From the chain thread

I just wished(now)that I pulled my axle back further when I cut the chain. Simply because I know I am never going the other direction again. You can always shorten but,,,,,,, U know the rest.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/18/2010 @ 11:23 AM *

Remember Rookster there's a lot of leeway between 17/45 gearing and stock 17/41. If you don't like the 17/45 (or 16/43, whichever way you go) you can always try an in between step or 2 I'm running 17/42 on my 14 only because thats all I could fit with the chain stretch I had, and I was too lazy to pull the front sprocket off. Plus I already had the rear tire off for new rubber lol. It still made a nice little diff from stock. The 14 responds well to smaller gearing changes because it has the torque and power to pull them well. I would go the 16/43 route with a stock length chain, then if that wasn't kosher, try a 16/41. That only equals half a tooth bigger in back than a 17/43, so a little lower geared, but it would save you the hassle of having to pull the front sprocket off again. And if you wanted to go back to stock you still could. Just trying to save you time and labor Personally I think you would love 16/41 gearing. The only drawback to 16/41 is you lose some of your chain adjustment range, because it'll move the wheel back a ways. Not sure how much on the 14, but it was quite abit on the busa. Thats a question Blue could prolly answer for you. But the 16/41 shouldn't be too radical on the highway rpm wise or mpg wise, but give you ALOT more snap than stock gearing. If I wasn't turbo'd that would prolly be my gearing of choice. Unfortunately anything with a 17 front you can't go over 42 on the rear without a longer than stock chain, and if the chain gets too much longer than stock you can't run a 16 front without shortening it back up some...a bit of a slippery slope either way I suppose

I'll tell you whats really fun tho....installing a full exhaust AND gearing at the same time, THEN taking your bike for a spin. Talk about an eye opening difference lol, between the weight loss in the handling, and the boatload of extra acceleration, its like you bought a whole new bike

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 12/18/2010 @ 12:24 PM *