Lol you're seriously comparing the clutch to the brake....

Yeah it DEFINITELY has to be the master.. Those things should be the first to wear out at 2400 miles. smh

Lol...no,I'm comparing the lever adjusters.And no,it doesn't HAVE to be the master.No more than it HAS to be the steels.Or anything else;)

At the rez, there is a hole that works 2-ways. The plunger passes over a hole and closes it off. The plunger returns and exposes the hole. When the oil is compressed, the relief is neutralized when the plunger returns home, exposes the hole, the oil returns up the rez, but is a very light reverse-direction or reverse pressure.

When the pads wear/clutch plates is no diff, the piston moves out at the caliper/slave. The oil follows the piston out via the hole at the rez is again, neutralizing the volume behind the piston is a returned filling of the oil behind the piston via the hole at the master to the rez.

When the bike gets hot, the clutch plates expand, this pushes the pushrod back against the piston, the pressure plate against the rod; the oil returns up the master via that hole and no pressure opening up the pack via the pushrod. The pazzo has moved the plunger over the hole. How so?

With the expanding pack, the rod is pushing the pressure plate open. Same as pulling the lever in and rev it> clutch slip will occur. If the hole was exposed, the movement would run up the master's rez via the hole relief. The oil can't drop down and as the plunger closes that hole, all the fluid is taken up or sitting in that neutralized hole. That is zero'd out and pressure is right now.

With the hole exposed, 'there is a cushion' of no oil dropping into that hole from the rez; so that liquid is as solid a touch to move the piston out and would be as brake sensitive as is the feeding of the clutch. So without that hole being open and in a filling action/reaction-expanding state, the rod is being pushed by partial air or not enough liquid to compress. So the rod extends out more and takes up that cushion and more or less is at full throw in the short sheets. That hole being covered and not feeding an neutralizing bleeds a locked state once past the hole and sits at home in front of it.

And again, my push at the plunger does not change I make a lever angle change. I am like the dutch boy with his finger in the dyke. That lever adjustment does not move the boy's finger in and out of the hole. It more he moves his elbow in or out as he walks up to or moves away from the dyke. So a lever adjustment is a mute point. The point is that the rez hole is covered over; no fluid back up the rez is a normally expanding pack. But with a hole covered via the aftermarket lever, the plunger has pasted over the hole.

Make sense or are you going to argue with the Master... I'm just the messenger.

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So the rod extends out more and takes up that cushion and more or less is at full throw in the short sheets.

And as the short sheets have that full throw, no plate has busted apart yet, so you clunk into gears, you find N is hard to snick. You creep up to the car in front of you... And was it a design flaw? An ever so something in the lever has pushed the plunger farther in the fandango.

Pazzo has yet to fix this lever to this common problem. Makes them look like shittyits, and makes you look the squid for buying damaged goods... I mean the bike is slowly being damaged via said burned plates... Alleged is the burn and warp.

De-squidding the bike back to stock will cure this. Write it on the chalk board 100 times. I will not redesign bulletproof/I will not redesign bulletproof...????? ///// And then under that, 200 times... Pass on Pazzo/Pass on Pazzo//////.... Until those shittyits get it right!

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/27/2015 @ 7:08 AM *

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Pazzo has yet to fix this lever to this common problem. Makes them look like shittyits,

I'm getting to the bottom of this this summer. I have my OEM clutch lever back on and no problem. Seems to me all Pazzo would need to do is make the friggin lever without the fancy shmancy bushing that is supposed to pivot. The OEM lever just has a flat spot. How hard is it to carve a flat spot for the pin to rest against? This has gone on for years. A lot of people seem to not have a problem with it but some do. I'm asking for a new clutch lever. They sure are nice. I see a member has a blue set for sale here in the FOR SALE section. I would buy them but I feel Pazzo owes me a new one free. We'll see what they have to say about that. If they don't, I'm going Chinese. $16. Same damn thing if you drill out the the bushing with a flat tipped bit.

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Go to their website. There are a few Kawi's using the same 838's? So they get away saying this is an 88?

Whereas the smaller bikes are in an ever so slight lever to perch to pivot to stop. Say the 838's pivot is to blame. Say the 14 has a larger piston so there is a master to match the ever so larger piston for the very large clutch basket. Much bigger than a 600 in proportion, right?

Say a dixie cup is an ounce+. Say a shot glass is one ounce even. I can't vise-verse my masters and think I can pull the clutch evenly? One lever goes to the grip and has yet to load the lines. The other is the lever has not hit the grip and there is no modulation at all kind of mismatch.

Now say that tiny, ever so tiny change in bore to pivot to ever so off is the pivot to plunger with the other lever being the 838 sneaking in as [an 88] being the larger master's pivot has to move if the bore is larger to the angle of the throw; throw being a line in a linear straight on push.

And that's fore and aft is if it hangs up before it hits bottom, then the lever pulled in is the other side is now in the opposite angle and not in what I think should be a linear line with the larger bore to pivot moved ever so out of the way for the linear to stay in a [straight] line.

How about I push a car from the back. I am directly behind it and in the center of the car. That is my linear plunger line is straight. To exaggerate, my pivot now hangs at the taillight, but I am not pushing straight, no, I am pushing the left taillight to the right front headlight. That's the kind of offset I have is a rub up against the bore I can't retract in line and remain linear at both throws.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/27/2015 @ 8:46 AM *

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Go to their website. There are a few Kawi's using the same 838's? So they get away saying this is an 88?

Initially, when I discovered the problem, I thought the same thing. "Are they using the same lever they make for the ZX-10 as they do the 14?....Does it almost fit but not quite??" Then someone told me the 10 does not have a hydraulic clutch so there went that theory. But some other Kawis do have hydraulic clutches, do they? Could be the explanation.

How about I push a car from the back. I am directly behind it and in the center of the car. That is my linear plunger line is straight. To exaggerate, my pivot now hangs at the taillight, but I am not pushing straight, no, I am pushing the left taillight to the right front headlight. That's the kind of offset I have is a rub up against the bore I can't retract in line and remain linear at both throws.

That's exactly what is happening with my lever. The bushing is not quite centered on the path of the pin. I'll bet I could get my dremel and JB Weld out and fix that lever so it would work perfectly. ..but I don't want to use a lever that held together with JB Weld.

I still don't understand why some people don't have a problem with these levers and some do.

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Probably the material and machining process for any given run at the factory.Perhaps they're INTENTIONALLY designing it this way so it only has a certain useful life.Can these pins be purchased separately?(a 'rebuild' kit?)

I'm sure you could buy a new pin from BikeBandit or some other OEM source. If Pazzo is designing this to wear out so it needs to be replaced, they didn't give it much of a life. I had mine on for about 15,000 miles at the most. I'd have to check on that for an exact mileage.

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"they didn't give it much of a life"...well,mine started acting up at around I'd say,14K miles.That's a lot of clutching.

yeah. Mine went about 14,800 miles. Changing the bushing would have probably headed off the problem but I think I felt the clicking almost as soon as I installed it. The clicking was from the worn edge catching against the inside of the lever. Eventually that wore the lever and the bushing turned in as far as it could go which caused the pin to be pressed into the master cylinder too far. Too complicated to explain unless you've seen the same thing. I have pics though. I'll figure this out this summer.

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