Gen1 PAIR Removal Blockoff Plates Installation
The mod saves 7.05 ounces, cleans up the engine bay as well as reducing decel popping. Having the PAIR removed or blocked also permits the use of an O2 sensor for tuning.
Do First:
Remove ram air covers, fuel tank fairing, right and left foremans, side fairings and right lower (Fairings Removal)
Remove fuel tank (Fuel Tank Removal steps 1-8).
Remove the right bulkhead door (see steps 1, 2 and 3, Bulkhead Door Removal).
Placing the bike on a rear stand will raise it enough to make work much easier. You will need a flashlight to see under the air box.
Tools
block off plates (I used Muzzy’s kit)
rear stand
flashlight
10mm socket
1 inch round end cap plugs or other object to block air box hole
sand paper
silicone spray
blue locktight
screwdriver
8mm socket
vacuum cleaner
1/4” or 3/8” drive ratchet
4mm hex tool socket
5mm hex tool socket
plastic bag
zip tie
Seal Clean Air Hose Grommet
1. Pull the clean air hose from the grommet on the right underside of the air box. The second photo shows the grommet above the hose.
There is a hose clamp on my clean air hose from a previous PAIR block mod.
2. The clean air hose grommet will need to be securely blocked in some way. The Muzzy kit comes with a billet air box plug but it will not fit the grommet. If I had managed to force the plug in, I believe it would have caused damage to the grommet. As far as I can tell from the Service Manual parts fiche, the grommet is only available as a part of the air switch valve. Lowe’s has grommets but none were the right size.
EDIT: Thought this might be helpful so I lifted it from a post near the top of p2 of this thread. The tip was contributed by "beigs." Sounds amazing. If my lil plastic cap were not so lightweight, I'd give it a try.
Hey All...?New member here, I just wanted to say thanks for this post. I just installed the Muzzys set in 08 and this guide was a huge help.?I did want to mention one thing: On the air box plug, just as Rook said, it doesn't fit without possibly causing damage. So I tried an old mechanics trick that a friend taught me, I froze it. Put it in the freezer for just over 24 hours while I worked on other stuff on the bike. Freezing shrinks the aluminum...not a lot, just a very tiny amount, but it was enough that with a firm push, it slid right in, nice and snug. After it thawed and expanded, it was solid in the rubber fitting.?Hope this helps someone...?Thanks Again...
I came across some 1 inch round end cap plugs at Lowe’s. It worked very well after the outside diameter of the plug was reduced with sand paper held flat on the edge of a table top. As a finishing touch, the sanded plug was held close to a small flame to burn away the fuzz that turned up from sanding. I made the plugs ribbing about the same diameter as the Muzzy plug and used a little silicone spray on it. It snapped right into the hole like it fit the diameter and also locked onto thickness of the grommet perfectly.
1” Plastic End cap with reduced ribbing to fit clean air hose grommet.
1” end cap grommet plug, air box interior.
1” end cap grommet plug, air box exterior underside.
Another alternative would be to plug the hole with a couple of fender washers secured with a nut and small screw with locktight on the threads.
3. Position the RH bulkhead door over the access hole and put the bolts in finger tight.
Switch Valve Removal
4. Removing the side fairing hangers will make reaching into the tight spot under the air box easier.
Use an 8mm socket to remove the LH fairing hanger bolt so that it and the main wiring harness may be cleared.
LH side.
Use an 8 mm socket to remove the RH fairing hanger.
RH side.
5. Locate the reed valve covers. They are the square, silver caps, each with a rubber hose running to the black plastic switch valve. The clean air hose from air box also attaches to the switch valve. You will need to lift the rubber mat and radiator overflow tube out of the way. I used a vacuum cleaner to clean around the covers before removing them so that no debris could fall into the reed valves.
Use a 1/4” drive ratchet or 1/8” drive ratchet with a 5mm hex attachment to remove each reed valve cover screw.
A 3/8” drive ratchet will reach all four bolts if the handle of the tool is situated under the airbox and grasped from the opposite side of the bike.
Reach under the air box from the left with your ratchet to fit it on the right front screw. Position the handle of the ratchet under the air box rather than outside of the engine compartment (see step 8 of this tutorial).
RH reed valve cover, rear bolt. This also fastens a retainer clip for the camshaft position sensor lead.
RH reed valve cover, front bolt. This also fastens the bracket for the heat shield wings which form part of the barrier between the top engine and the radiator .
LH reed valve cover, front bolt under rubber mat. This screw also fastens the heat shield wings bracket.
LH reed valve cover rear bolt. This bolt also fastens the bracket for the stick coils subharness lead connector.
6. Remove the white clean air switch valve lead connector from the switch valve solenoid. Insert a screwdriver in the slot pressing the tab down to free the latch. Pull back at the same time.
I was able to disconnect the lead before the entire assembly was removed from the engine compartment but it was quite difficult. I would definitely try disconnecting the lead after the switch valve is free. You should be able to pull the entire assembly (switch valve, hoses, reed valve covers and connector) over to the left side of the bike to make disconnecting the lead easy. If the far left stick coil wire is disconnected, that should allow more slack in the switch valve lead which is routed under it. You could also remove the top engine wires and disconnect the switch valve lead after pulling the whole assembly out with the wire.
7. Pull the entire PAIR assembly out. I removed from the right because that side is unobstructed by throttle cables and allows easer access.
If you removed the connector in step 7 by pulling the whole assembly to the left, you might as well just pull it out of the left side.
Block-off Plate Install
8. Each reed valve is a thin, metal plate located under the reed valve cover. Place a block-off plate over each reed valve opening leaving the reed valve permanently in place below it.
Use blue locktight on the threads of all four screws.
Fasten the camshaft sensor lead retainer to the rear bolt of the RH block off plate.
Fasten the stick coil sub harness lead connector bracket to the rear bolt of the LH block-off plate.
Torque - Reed Valve Cover Bolts: 87 inch lb.
The Muzzy kit has new screws included. which require a 4mm hex tool socket to install. I found these screws to be inadequate if you ever intend to remove them. The 4 mm allen hex and dome head will easily stretch or strip when breaking the bolts free. I reinstalled the OEM screws.
Tightening the front screw on left block off plate. A 3/8” drive ratchet with hex tool socket will fit on all screws if the tool is placed and used entirely under the airbox.
9. The final step is to protect the white lead removed from the switch valve in step 7 and place it under the radiator hose that crosses the front of the top engine. I used the corner of a plastic bag secured by a zip tie to wrap the lead and prevent dust accumulation.
Install ram air covers, fuel tank fairing, right and left foremans, side fairings and right lower (Fairings Removal).
Install fuel tank (Fuel Tank Removal, steps 9 through 14).
Install the right bulkhead door (see steps 4, 5 and 6, Bulkhead Door Removal).
Weights
Weight of switch valve with reed valve covers and OEM screws.
Weight of various air box plug solutions
The weight of the entire Muzzys kit with clean air plug. Go with the endcap instead and you have 3.05 oz.
* Last updated by: Rook on 10/12/2017 @ 2:11 PM *
