I have a question on how the throttle cable is routed. Does it go under the plastic deflector above the radiator to the motor or over the top of it. I was looking at the service drawing and to me it looks like it goes on top and secured with a push in type wire tie trough the defector but mine is under it with the tie hanging loose hitting my fan. I just had my valves adjusted and the tech swears he didn't even touch the throttle cable or move it out of the way. Another question also, does the radiator have to be removed for a valve adjustment to get to them? Thanks. I am doing it myself and replacing the gasket that they didn't bother changing while doing the valve check. I am going to try a little Right Stuff on the gasket before doing the washer method of stopping future leaks. I really don't want to over compress the plug seals to get enough compression on the cover gasket.

* Last updated by: mustangdaren on 7/22/2016 @ 10:15 AM *

Hold up... the whole point of the washer was the loss of gasket memory. It collapsed, has no spring-back 'to press and seal.' Therefore, no need for a washer backup. Cable above the cover and should have a smooth arch as it comes up to the throttle assembly.

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it goes on top and secured with a push in type wire tie trough the defector but mine is under it with the tie hanging loose hitting my fan.

wrong installation. that retainer was pretty tricky I have pics here along with removal steps. Step 10

THROTTLE CABLE REMOVAL

it goes on top and secured with a push in type wire tie trough the defector but mine is under it with the tie hanging loose hitting my fan.

possible but i suggest removing throttle cables fot two reasons : 1)it's easier to get the cover out without scraping if the throttle bodies out. If you don't remove Tbodies wash everything off extra clean under there snsd cover the valve cover with blue tape so it does not get scratched. 2) if you don't remove the cables they're hanging over the top of you open engine--not tooo big a deal but worth the trouble to take off.

does the radiator have to be removed for a valve adjustment to get to them?

No.

I am doing it myself and replacing the gasket that they didn't bother changing while doing the valve check.

Good. Quite a job if you have to adjust but if you have the time and patients...go for it. use my tutorial and take your time. replace spark plug well gaskets too and ringOs under the valve cover bolts.

VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT <<<LINKS other tutorials you need are in this one. Let me know if any pics are missing and I will fix it.

I am going to try a little Right Stuff on the gasket before doing the washer method of stopping future leaks. I really don't want to over compress the plug seals to get enough compression on the cover gasket.

Right Stuff must be a liquid gasket sealer? You are supposed to use a particular 3M engine sealant in the round cut outs that they have for positioning the gasket. It's in my tutorial. No sealant on top between the cover and gasket is necessary. Less sealant you use the safer you are about leaving hapless chunks of sealant get in your oil passages. I only used where reomended and no leaks at all this time after a few years.

RingOs have been updated and head cover gasket is too. Doubt you will have the old leak problem its been fixed. I beleive washers under the bolt heads do the same thing but use the updated parts and you should be leak proof.

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Also have a heat wing removal tutorial since you probaly will need that to get the cable back where it belongs.

Oh--the washer fix helped but I don't think it eliminated the leak 100%. once oil seeps through, it tends to follow the path even if you squeeze the path tighter.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/22/2016 @ 9:21 PM *

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