Hi All,

I really have been enjoying the 09 engine in my 07 ZX-14 that replaced the blown original.
It has been a great performer combined with the PC3 custom dyno tune.
But during the last few cold starts I have noticed that dreaded start up rattle has come back!
I am now pretty gun shy after what I went through with pistons hitting valves on the original engine.
Especially considering where the current rattle is emanating from!

Do I have anything to be worried about?

* Last updated by: yannih on 11/9/2014 @ 1:35 AM *

Click

+1 on the ape cct. Have a look in the "how to" section. Rook had a really nice write up on the install.

My 08 made a shit load of noise. Installed the cct and it is much nicer now.

* Last updated by: Fazer on 11/9/2014 @ 10:33 AM *

Mine always rattled on cold start longer when it was cold outside. I wouldn't worry about it as long as it goes away after a warmup. The APE never lets the CCT rattle at any temp. It's a nice $60 investment in your sanity. I just wish they could have made it lighter instead of heavier than the OEM CCT. The adjuster screw is a big steel bolt. Also, you may get some very minor leakage at the adjuster bolt. That little O-ring doesn't quite do it. It's really minor though. Wipe a couple drops of oil and dirt off once/year and that's all.

I went with a CCT from Carpenter Racing, I believe it's a zx12 cct that they modify to fit our bikes. It's more expensive than a manual adjuster, but just bolt it on and forget about it. No adjusting necessary. I really don't remember what I paid, $150.00ish. No regrets.

I don't think I heard of anyone having to adjust the APE after it was installed. Maybe that came up one time in my recollection. It's easy enough to adjust if it ever started rattling again. I've only heard good things about a modded ZX-12 CCT. I almost went that rout but it was probably the expense that steered me toward the APE.

Thanks guys.
Just ordered an APE cam chain tensioner.

Pretty disappointing that a new gasket doesn't come with the new APE CCT?
Any suggestions of where to get one of these?

I did not have a gasket with my OEM CCT and my APE did not have one either. I think I recall seeing some pics of a CCT gasket that someone cut out of gasket material. He just traceed the shape from the base of the CCT (or the engine).

Mine does not leak at the baseplate. The large O-ring prevents seepage. The small o-ring around the adjuster screw threads seeps just a tiny bit. Just a drop or two of grease I wipe off each winter.

"Pretty disappointing that a new gasket doesn't come with the new APE CCT?"...as Rook said...it doesn't need one...the o-ring seals the groove.....I didn't have a gasket on my 07....50K later...she still was dry as a bone.Only if you try and scrape the other gasket material off...and if I remember right...the factory one didn't have a gasket in there either(as the Rookster mentioned also)....if you do have one...use extreme caution scraping it off...you slightly gouge that surface...then yes...you WILL need a new gasket.Just make sure BOTH mating surfaces are totally free of ANYTHING.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 11/16/2014 @ 4:03 PM *

...or if you're sure you need a gasket, you could try some of that silicone Form-a-gasket liquid gasket by Permatex or something. The Kaw specced 3Bond 1211F which is used for the pulser cover should work but I always try to eliminate use of sealant and thread locking agent in the motor unless absolutely necessary.

I'd try the APE without a gasket and see if it leaks. It's easy to remove if it does leak. Of course, if you DID use a gasket, that would impact the setting of the tension. You'd need to follow the steps to reset it if you used a gasket after adjusting the tensioner without a gasket.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/16/2014 @ 5:05 PM *

Thanks all...

Yay.
APE CCT just arrived...

You know how to set that up,yes?

don't throw away the instructions. Mine was rattling again until it went into slow idle. This was after the valve las check. Maybe I'll need to adjust it. Waiting until it warms up before I start it again.

"Mine was rattling again until it went into slow idle"...perhaps the temps?.May not do it when the ambient temps rise some?IDK...after i set mine on my 07...it went through several years of cold sitting...I rarely started it at those times...but I never needed to readjust it the whole time I had that bike...basically from mid 2007 on.

Course...you know(I would guess)that trying to adjust it in cold sitting situations may NOT be the safest time for the final setting.Tolerances will change when the temps rise.

.May not do it when the ambient temps rise some?IDK

I never heard of anyone claiming damage because of the stock cct or have there been any?

Only damage is to your sense of pride when you start it up and it sounds like a bucket of bolts for a few seconds.

From what I'm told, a manual CCT is more the norm for a race bike because the timing chain is held at a constant tension. I guess it could jump time at high rpm with an automatic tensioner that is too loose but I've never heard of that happening. There is a small range of tension that the automatic tensioner will permit where the manual is set where it's set and it can't move until it is reset.

you mean you can hear the sound over aftermarket pipes which most people have

No more rattle for me.
APE CCT now installed.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but my cam chain rattles on cold start up but old for a second or two so I'm not really worried but yes it makes it sound like its going to throw parts out for that moment .. What is the difference between the stock tensioner and the ZX12 tensioner? Longer range of movement? Or maybe it doesn't collapse when there is no pressure? Does either have a ratchet on the plunger? I'm guessing the stocker doesn't?

The 14 has a ratchet type mechanism to prevent the tensioner from being pushed back to a loser setting. I've seen 3 or 4 dif automatic tensioners and that is how each worked. It's possible that some had much smaller spaces between ratchet teeth which would mean the timing chain would be kept at a more constant tension throughout it's duty life.

It is possible, and good thought, but I really don't think one tooth on the ratchet would be enough for a very audible ratchet, has anyone had a good look at a noisy one? I wouldn't be surprised if there is a failure in the ratchet area, like a rounded or broken pawl.

* Last updated by: OZrevhead on 5/22/2015 @ 5:24 PM *