I recently installed rearsets on my 07 zx14 but I have no clue how to install the hydrualic brake switch that was included. Hopefully someone can set me straight. I have included a picture of the switch that was included with the kit. If there is a better one on the market to use, also please let me know. Any assitance will be much appreciated.

Steps 14-18 and step 20 here.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=46FE3BF1-D56B-84E2-1E0970447AC884CE

The process covered in the tutorial is meant to cause as little brake fluid loss as possible so as to eliminate as much air from entering the system. In practice, it is pretty hard to not spill most of it out of the line anyway. Your mastercylinder will remain full which is a plus but I still would suggest you jut drain the whole system before removing the banjo bolt. There is not that much fluid in the rear brake and it's not real difficult to bleed all the air out of the whole system. You'll have to bleed all the air out of the line anyway so might as well bleed the whole system, IMO.

EMpty the rear brake fluid by following steps 1-9 here.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EF69194F-1372-66AE-3B981C05AA26103E

Have the reservoir cap off but simply do not replenish the reservoir as the fluid draws down. Almost all of the fluid will drain out being displaced by air.

Install your rear brake light fluid pressure sensor with a lot less hassle about dripping fluid all over.

DO steps 1-18 including step 10 (replenishing fluid) and you're done. NOt a whole lot more work than if you would have tried to save all the fluid in the line. If you've never bled brakes before, it can be a little questionable as to whether or not your getting all the air out. As long as you only see a few tiny bubbles in the line, that's ok. Belive it or not, these come from air getting sucked into the tube where it fits on the bleeder nipple. If you watch closely, you might see this happening at the nipple. One more tip, easy on the bleeder threads. You don't have to tighten them much while opening and closing to do the bleed. The threads are small and no sense in wearing them out when you bleed. Torque to spec when done. I have had my bleeds weep a little after bleeding. A hair more torque solves that. You see why you don't want to wear the bleed valve threads out while bleeding. Be reasinable. My threads are fine. I put new bleeds in and even those seeped a little until I gave them another few inch lbs of torque.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/11/2015 @ 12:26 PM *

If there is a better one on the market to use, also please let me know. Any assitance will be much appreciated.

As long as it is the correct thread, it should be just fine. I didn't get anything fancy and mine works just as good as the more expensive 90° wire sensor I have on the busa. I have never heard of a problem with these however, you may find that they are a tad less sensitive to a gentle touch on the pedal than the OEM sensor was. It takes a sufficient amount of brake pressure to activate them. You can't adjust the sensitivity like you can with the OEM sensor. Not bad at all though. You will never be on the brake that light. Absolutely fine for street use.

Excellent thanks!!. So I am gattering that I remove the banjo bolt, gaskets and ring coupling from rear brake master cylinder and then I slip my hydraulic brake switch around the stock banjo bolt and then tight everything back up?

Hey shift6, there are options though I know you already have your rearsets.

I did a lot of research before I chose mine and decided to go with the Strikers.
A bit expensive but the quality is top notch.
And most importantly they came with all you needed to mount onto the bike.
Including brackets and hardware to mount the existing break light switch.

But there is nothing wrong with Rooks great detail on how to setup your system...

Good luck...

* Last updated by: yannih on 5/11/2015 @ 3:24 PM *

That pic you posted is tiny so I had to zoom in.

I've never seen a switch like that. The ones I'm familiar with are threaded and screw into the mastercylinder in place of the banjo bolt. That one should work just the same as a vertical switch but the low profile may be designed for low clearance such as lowered bike might have? I googled this and see a better pic.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1019139-what-are-you-guys-running-for-brake-light-switches/

Being the rear is a single banjo line and the sensor ring coupling is configured like a second banjo, I'd say you definitely need to use a gasket between the head of the banjo bolt and the sensor ring, then a second gasket between the ring and the rear brake line banjo, then a third between the banjo and the master cylinder. This is how the dual banjos of the front brake lines are set up. It will definitely leak right away if you do not use the three gaskets as described. Also, this comes with bullet connectors instead of a plastic connector. The sensor I put on my busa was the same way. I attached crimp on contacts and slid them into the OEM connector. I sure did not want to cut off the connector and crimp on bullets.

I'd get a second opinion on whether this sensor will work or not. Normally, a double banjo connection has a longer bolt which has two holes in it. I think this sensor will still work. There does not need to be more than one hole to supply fluid to both the sensor and the brake. After all, that sensor only has a few drops of fluid in it.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/11/2015 @ 6:11 PM *

Rook thank you that confirmed/cleared that up for me.
What happens to the return spring? I have a set of Sato rear sets but can't see where to put the return spring. I don't see it mentioned in your tutorial either. Is it not necassary to put it back on? Is the pressure enough from the master cylinder?

HAHAH!!! just replied to your PM. Return spring goes between the MC and the hinge joint atthe back of the pedal. More details from the PM incase anyone else is wondering the same thing in the future. Tell you the truth, I didn't get how the spring was installed at first either.

AHHHHH yes, the return spring. Well I do not believe Vortex has one. I have Satos on my Busa but did not use it because ----YOU DON"T NEED IT! I paid extra for it even though the guy told me "you don't really need it." Then I saw why. The rear brake master cylinder has more than enough pressure in it to push the pedal back up just as effectively as a spring would. In fact, the MC is so much more powerful, I doubt the spring does anything to lift the rear brake pedal. ONLY time you would need the spring is if you should loose rear brake pressure, the spring would prevent the pedal from dangling down. Could prevent a crash if you were cornering to the right. The OEM spring serves pretty much the same purpose. Otherwise, the spring does zip. I left the spring off my Satos and I don't have one on the Votexes either. Come to think of it, seems most likely you would loose brake pressure slowly--as in a slow drip instead of all the fluid gushes out all the sudden. I'd rather have an early warning from a sagging brake pedal than have the false sense of security a return spring would provide. Either case, spring or no spring, I guess most riders would notice the brake was soft if fluid went way low. ,,,So , your decision.

If you want to put the spring on, it should be slipped over the adjuster stud coming out of the ruuber boot at the bottom of the rear brake MC. It goes between the MC and the bracket with the hinge pin at the back of the brake pedal. Get it? If not, I'd be happy to do a quick drawing and post to the rearsets thread.

Daron

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/2/2015 @ 1:23 PM *

Thanks Rook. Got them installed, left the return spring off (didn't get one with the rear sets, I was going to use the standard OEM) works like a charm without it.

Huh, I didn't know you could use the OEM one. I see, the Sato has three holes back by the pivot on my busa. You could hook the bottom of the spring through one of those but where would you hook the top of the spring?

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/3/2015 @ 10:29 AM *

I apologize, don't think I explained properly.
What I meant was I didn't get one with the rear sets, so thought I had to use the std one from my bike. However I had no clue where it would hook. I actually thought there was a part missing. Hence my question to you
Dissapointing that Sato themselves with were no help. I emailed them, and I got a reply asking for my specific model and then absolutely nothing. Their website also gives no info on installation either.

None the less as you said and I've experienced there is no need for a return spring. The pressure on the master cylinder returns the break lever just fine.