I have a good bit of first and second hand knowledge when it comes to nitrous applications. I thought I would start a thread where you guys could come in and ask a resident racer any questions that you may have. I have seen a large amount of misinformation and misplaced fears when it comes to chemical induction setups so lets clear some of that up. Step right in. Don't be shy.

I want to do nitrous in the future. Most likely will install it for the 2016 season. Never been around the stuff or really know of anybody nearby. I want to do max spray with minimal motor work. How much can I spray and what if any motor work is necessary or recommended? What's the most efficient type of setup? Also would I be happier with wet or dry? Am I going to need an ignition box? Are most dyno tuners competent enough to tune nitrous?

* Last updated by: nasty on 11/22/2014 @ 9:23 AM *

Also where is the best place to score medical grade nitrous oxide?

I'm at the track bro. I will answer all of that when I can get to a keyboard.

I'll have abunch of questions for you but daughter is playing computer games now.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A5145F02-1372-66AE-3B2F802F953178C5&page=1&searchTerm=nitrous%20wet%20or%20dry?#3

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=F822D9C5-1372-66AE-3B5997D3CDEC0739&page=1&searchTerm=nitrous%20wet%20or%20dry?&show=0

I think Nasty asked all of the first questions I asked. Much of that is adressed in the threads right above.

I already have my DynoTune dry system waiting to go in. Plan on a Spyder spray bar to go with it. Install and tuning is the next round of questions.

I'm curious to hear your opinions , Mav.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/22/2014 @ 1:41 PM *

How much can I spray and what if any motor work is necessary or recommended?

What's the most efficient type of setup?

Also would I be happier with wet or dry?

Am I going to need an ignition box?

Are most dyno tuners competent enough to tune nitrous?

Also where is the best place to score medical grade nitrous oxide?

Are you planning on staying stock wheelbase? Either way I'm going to suggest a progressive controller to ramp the spray in. Schnitz makes a very simple two dial controller that simply allows build time adjustment (how long it takes the solenoid to get to full open) and the start percentage (where the solenoid starts as the switch is made). The controller actually pulses the solenoid to achieve these results so it is important to buy a quality solenoid.

Either way I'm going to suggest a progressive controller to ramp the spray in. Schnitz makes a very simple two dial controller that simply allows build time adjustment (how long it takes the solenoid to get to full open) and the start percentage (where the solenoid starts as the switch is made). The controller actually pulses the solenoid to achieve these results so it is important to buy a quality solenoid.

You just answered my next question. Cool. So would a standard NX or NOS kit come with a quality solenoid?

My flash is pretty aggressive on the ignition advance, do you think it's still safe to simply run a higher octane vs a msd box to retard the timimg a little while spraying?
(I know C would most likely work something out for me or answer my questions and concerns, flash wise, if I were to ask. But for the sake of this topic I thought I'd ask anyway since Im not the most knowledgeable when it comes to nitrous systems)

I would suggest that Sebastian flash it back to the factory ECU timing map because I simply don't know the specifics of what is there now. Don't fool with the MSD. That's just more wires and more points of possible failure. Now that I think about it Seb can actually use your low power mode for factory timing and modified fueling (spray map) and your high power mode can be your motor map. You guys aren't exactly close enough to run over and get that custom spray map though.... Do you have a tuner in the area doing Woolrich ECU flash tuning?

Anything from 50 to 100 will require heavier valve springs as the factory springs won't be able to return quick enough and we all know what that means. I have heard of shots larger than 100 on stock rods, but it's been from shops that go through their motors regularly.

Mav have you heard any reports on how much stronger the Gen 2 springs are compared to Gen 1. I'm hearing they are stronger but by how much is the Question ? Rumors of guys running 120 shot all stock are floating around. Also rumors of that same guy now in pieces. Don't know the exact details but I'm always keeping ears open to find the damage point of the 14R springs as I myself am pushing it.

Currently I am running a Cascading timing map flash in my ECU which pulls up to 4 degrees at WOT. Issue is, Each degree cost me over six plus hp. With good fuel I'm tempted to run my timing back up for a gain of 25 Plus hp. That would put me over 300 hp at rear wheel. Springs are all that's stopping me. They are the governor in these projects. Good intel very important. Any news you may have gotten at the track where the guys are comparing the two sets of springs has great value. I have the springs,,,,,, I guess time to get at it

Sorry but I don't have that comparative data on hand. I can make a phone call tomorrow and answer that for you though. As an aside.... Install the springs. Our greed for power will require that you do so.

Sorry but I don't have that comparative data on hand. I can make a phone call tomorrow and answer that for you though. As an aside.... Install the springs. Our greed for power will require that you do so.

2ND 3rd 4th. That info will be great

Springs are the last and only Governor that saves us from ourselves. They are also the very beginning of the deepest darkest chase down the rabbit hole. Once your into that motor ??? Having the smarts to stop with a spring change most often fails.

Springs cry for piston, pistons cry for Rods,. Pistons Rods springs together cry for Back cut gears while motor is all apart, balance the crank. Fuel system now garbage..... Wallet now crushed, wife now gone with house Lol Sorry these thoughts hurt my brain. But ya, I'm in.

Thanks for info. This pretty much confirms everything I've heard up to now. I hope we keep this thread going although I doubt I will be doing any NOS tests until summer. The install I have planned is a little tricky and I'll be busy on that through the winter.

So would a standard NX or NOS kit come with a quality solenoid?

If the solenoid in the kit isn't in the $100 dollar range chances are that it's junk.

I think setting up the map switch so that we can run a full power NA flash right up until the switch is tripped (wot switch perhaps?), then as spray is activated the map is simultaneously switched to the timing retarded map, when nos is not used, defaults to f-power map. That way we get full boogie map to lightspeed map.

Does the ECU have an input wire to allow for a trigger switch? Or would the map have to be changed via traditional way at the switch block?

The MSD SB-6 box had a wire that tapped into the throttle sensor and automatically switched from PCV or ECU timing to NOS timing when throttle went to 100%. Very nice. You would need to switch from NA fueling to Nos fueling with a handlebar switch to the PCV unless you are running NOS fueling all the time which many seem to feel works just fine.

You might still be able to find an SB6 out there somewhere. Grab it while you can. I went with the ignition module from DJ.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=83C28DA3-D56B-84E2-17E1F7818A161A7A

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/29/2016 @ 10:41 AM *