hello guys im fairly new to the zx14r I have a 2014 zx14r when im just driving normal and when I shift from 3 to 4th it dosent change until I let go of the clutch then try it agen then its shifts it only does it sometimes not all the time but when im getting in to it shifts normal is than normal to do that or do I have a prob there is only 1800 miles on it thanks

Welcome and don't take offense to this... It's not the bike. My buddy put me thru some paces just now and I hardly used the clutch to up or downshift so for sure it was 3rd-4th and then shift down to 2nd or 3rd and then back up to 4th without a missed shift all that time. Be more solid with the shifts. No clutch hang but shift and be done with it.

Thanks for the reply yea it's prob just me I had a couple of my buddy's drive it and they said it was fine I'll just be more firmer on the shifts like u said thanks for the help

I had a couple of my buddy's drive it and they said it was fine I'll just be more firmer on the shifts like u said

No prob. That 3-4 seems like it takes the higher jump, meaning, the ratio from 1-2-3 is on a more even keel. From 3 to 4 begins kicking in a little overdrive at a time getting to 6th. So slamming 3rd into 4th is more you pointing out where I've been there many times on a misshift.

That means it's real important to get that idio of the transmission down. This has to be one of the finest shifting bikes out there. The new H2 has the latest shifting redesign, but for this size bike and gear proportion, meaning, huge gears, this is a sweetheart of a gearbox.

You'll find it soon enough how well this bike shifts.

dmack,I had similar problem and it ended up being the boots I was wearing. They didn't allow the gear shift to "ratchet" all the way to kick into the next gear. Changed boots and all was good. Could also be that you need to slightly adjust your gear lever to accommodate your foot to give you a more positive change into the gears.

try changing your clutch fluid, I generally change it every 6,000km and find it keeps everything working smoothly

Do you pre-load the shift lever? By that, I mean apply some lifting pressure to the shift lever a moment before you plan on shifting, and with a slight reduction in throttle coupled with a feathering of the clutch it should slip right in. It isn't even necessary to feather the clutch, though I like to.

Also, what Hub was talking about with the clutch hang is that this bike does not like to be shifted like a truck. The longer you engage the clutch, the more difference there will be in rpm, which makes it rougher, so it should be quick. Kind of counter intuitive if you think that the clutch is not working well enough.

* Last updated by: tooncinator on 4/6/2015 @ 8:01 AM *

Yea I was wearing boots that might just be the problem and I might need to adjust the lever and I get what u guys are saying and when I shift I pull the clutch and right after I pull it I shift almost shift at the same time when I pull the clutch

A lot of people never take the time to adjust the bike to their personal liking. Adjust the shifter, brake pedal and levers so they work for your riding position and comfort. It can make a big difference on how the bike feels and works.

Mad

Good point, Madd. Example: I'm sitting comfortably on the bike, hands resting at a normal, comfortable, arm drop onto the bars. My imaginary fingers extend out and rest on the lever. Question? Where is the lever when my fingers are comfortably extended out? Is the lever above my knuckles, below my fingers? I want the lever positioned where my finger extension is in line with my wrist, meaning, straight out are my fingers to this seating angle to arm drop to finger extension, to lay the lever under the fingers, as if I extend the fingers out and there is the lever.

Lever being, my wrist did not pivot to reach for the lever either up or down was the wrist twist, but never moved from that comfort angle to the lever under the fingers in a most reachable way is extend fingers and the lever rests under the fingers = No wrist movement grabbing lever.

Foot shift adjustment: The good, the bad the ugly mess is I have a lever sitting up from horizontal is one spline tooth move. My boot is now shifting the trans cleaner. My downshifts are I have to really move off the peg to get the boot high enough to step down in gears.

This is somewhat wearing on the loads, but one mentions to take up any slack to the lever to the shifter and get ready to shift? That slight lever load is the same as touching the brakes. Load the lever and the clutch is not fully locked, but here is the spring load off the plates. Next is the shift fork. The shifter load is moving the drum if not out of its groove it sits in or that motion-pro star you change off the shift drum. This now loads the side of the fork tangs, the push arm groove, the spots on the fork that will rub under this load, and work the tang clearance down, rather than it floating in the groove of the star.

In a way, yes you can sneak up on the lever and shifter is hand and foot resting, but not loading them. Besides, this shifting business is not in a full concentration step by step move, but an unconscious kind of; you don't think of swallowing, don't think of breathing in and out, etc.

Yea I never adjusted anything I will give that a try when I get home from work and let u guys no how it is after that thanks for the help

I switched from steel toed work boots to actual riding boots. Makes a huge difference. I agree with everyone saying shift quickly and deliberately. You can either man handle the bike, or it'll man handle you!

Need to get some rideing boots all I have is steel toe and some regular shoes thanks for the help

The problem was the boots I was wearing I put shoes on and did not miss a shift at all thanks for replying

I feel that my riding boots are just a bit thick over the toe for good shift feel but I guess that's the sacrifice that must be made for toe protection. GP shift is one of my plans for the future.

Rook, I have the same problem with bike boots. They also tend to be very stiff and take forever to wear in. I found there are a lot of "non biker" boots that work really well. They don't have re-inforced toe protection but cover the whole foot and ankles. Doc Martins and Caterpillar are still my favorites for normal riding. Track days are different as they have a rule of "no laces" here.

Yeah I have AStar S-MX boots, and on a closer look they are a bit less rigid than they first appear, but they have good feel and sure as heck aren't popping off when you need them to stay on.

* Last updated by: tooncinator on 4/20/2015 @ 10:13 PM *

After reading many horror stories of doc martins and steel toed work boots I'll always ride with riding boots. Once it hit's home that people have not only broke calf and ankle bones wearing those boots, but their lower extremities have actually DETACHED from their bodies, kind of a game changer. I recall one account of a guy who wrecked, was found as he rolled up a hill and one of his feet was found about 40 feet from him in his steel toed work boots. No thanks.