We are back to how I start out first thing = Close all low screws.
Then I can nipple up either combo-side to adjust the shafts/blades = 2nd move.
Then I open up 1/4 (1/8th means richer) turn and readjust = Step 3.
that makes a lot more sense after having done a sync myself but you're still working the center screw and the bypasses, same as the book just maybe less jumping back and forth between this screw and then that one.
I never adjust the center screw once I open the lows.
I can see how you might not need to if closing the lows and brings their vacuums up close to the highs.
I don't follow book just for that reason you showing no response and me seeing the lows interfering.
There's always next time. I think the best way to verify what's going on would be to take the T-bodies out so it is possible to see what the blades are doing when I adjust the center screw.
So then, when you adjust the center screw, should one bank increase as the other decreases both at the same time? Or does half of the adjuster screws travel adjust the LH bank only while the other half of the screw travel adjusts the RH bank only?
Example: screw %50 in is the zero mark, the plates are at 0°on both banks.
screw %51-%100 counterclockwise from zero adjusts left bank only, RH bank stays at 0°
screw %51-%100 clockwise from zero, adjusts right bank only, left bank stays at 0°
..and how about this pic of the bottom of the t-bodies? Does it not look as though the tip of the adjuster screw butts up to a tab that is attached to the RH bank only? you turn that screw, looks to me as though the only side of th actuator arm that is going to move is the RH side.
screw in, plates tip back; screw out plates tip forward. coil spring on RH side of actuator arm maintains tension against screw? What do you think?
* Last updated by: Rook on 1/17/2016 @ 2:24 PM *