Blue I used to hate dunlops until I gave the Q2's a run, Not your typical dunlop. Of course I can still spin the rear up in a corner but it's more controlled and you have to really feed it the throttle to break it loose. I liked the PR2's but the Q2's are really alot better, not to mention the lean angle availble on them. You will not run out of tire with the Q2's.

So i was reading up and people mention the 190/55 instead of the stock 190/50 size. I want to know what i need to do other then buy the tire. The stock wheel supports the taller tire, correct?

I have ridden on BT-016 55s and BT-003 55's. The 016's feel very good in cornering to me. The 003, I am not sure I ever really felt as comfortable being able to predict the turn in. Seemed a lot better after I ran it at the track but I can't do that on the street. I would like to try the Pilot power 1 or Power Pure by Michelin. One of those (Power one I think) is a very light weight tire.

I think you should give the 55 a try. More of a sport riding choisce, IMO but I gaurentee you will feel the dif even in normal street cornering. Takes a bit of getting used to. If you no like, you just switch back to a 50 when the time comes.

viperkillertt wrote:

WOw, i would have liked to see that recommendation before i bought my PR2s 3 weeks ago. The Q2s have very good reviews.
One very strange thing that has been happening with my PR2s is that when i come out of a corner in town, i can fairly easily loose my rear. This is strange because i did not have this problem with the crappy tire that i bought the bike with. It was extremely had an extremely flat shape. This one is very round, but man, it sort of scares me. I am careful, but i don't like almost loosing the bike just turning around the corner.

This is indeed strange. I have put 7k miles on this set of PR2s and they look like they will do quite a bit more. I drag the outside toe sliders on my Sidi's on the last two turns into the development where I live all the time. Also on-ramps and off-ramps. Not once have I had even a hint of slide.

Yes, my wear strip goes all the way to the sidewall ridge, front and back.

Could I make it slide? Sure, I could. But I'm already moving twice the speed limit so any more would be asking for trouble. Heh. And like I always say, if I want to go faster, if I could which I can't anymore, but if I could, I'd do it on a track with a track bike. Not a big overweight ZX14.

I'm gonna hate to part with my 14.But I can't afford to pay full price.

Same here. But I've got quite a bit of money in it already plus the sentimental value: my first motorcycle ever ever. So I'll keep it, even if it means I have to wait and watch you guys fly by me on that new 14.

Yes, my wear strip goes all the way to the sidewall ridge, front and back.

Ya...me too!You've got pretty flat roads out there,right?Much harder to get er leaned without curves!I tried those BT003's that Rook used on his track days.I wanted to see if I could get my sides like his were...I did.and the tires gripped great.I could not however continue to spend good money on tires that only lasted 2000 miles at most.So...I went back to my Angels(on the rear at least).Then,I rode just as aggressive with that one on there as the others.I wasn't real sure IF the Angel was gonna hold.It did....possibly even better.I upped my curve speeds just to see.The first few times out with the new Angel.She held....just fine.And was even able to hold at a faster speed.So I go speed limit on the straights,usually less,maybe60,65.And on the curves I open er up.The sides are now getting a decent workout.

Yeah that was in Nebraska. I found some decent roads in Iowa about 1 hour from where I live just 2 weeks before I had to move here But it's all good now I'm in Austin. We got a little bit of everything: straights, twisties, some sweepers, my only complain now is that I have to develop the skills to enjoy them. Just found out the other day she wasn't diving in because instead of pushing a little forward (proper counter steering) I was pushing vertically down. My fastest sweeper as been 90 mph, I'm going to put the new rear R C pretty soon and I'm sure I'll get to triple digits... hypothetically of COURSE. I'll also get a set of Q2's the price is just too good. That being said I'll be surprised if they outperform the Pirelli's. After that it's on to the BT-003. I have gotta say though the Metzeler M5 is a pretty good tire too. But then I imagine the way Rook and you ride and I'm not sure there is a tire out there that'll give you the distance and the performances you want...

I could not however continue to spend good money on tires that only lasted 2000 miles at most.

* Last updated by: dragking on 9/20/2011 @ 2:59 PM *

In the owner's manual it gives the rpm values for making shifts.At the beginning of owning my bike...there was just NO WAY I could follow those guidelines.I mean,I didn't thrash my engine and all...no way...and followed the max rpm values until after break-in....but...as I've been riding more(over the years)I can see the value and rideability of using those rpm numbers to make shifts.She definitely will shift different going by those numbers.(in a positive way).It's easy for me to think...'badazz bike..fast as u know what...spaceship...mass torque...gotta blast...' you know,all that stuff.But I'm finding that a nice cruise and legal speeds are very enjoyable also.I'm doing more and more of that kind of riding lately.Hell...I KNOW my bike will do 190.Sheesh.Not a whole lot going on at that speed though.Least not that I can see!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/20/2011 @ 3:41 PM *

But I'm finding that a nice cruise and legal speeds are very enjoyable also.I'm doing more and more of that kind of riding lately.Hell...I KNOW my bike will do 190.

Yeah me too. I use to want to flex all the time. Now I just let the guy with the mustang go by. Outside of the city, I don't know if I could resist the urge though!!!! I haven't maxed out yet so It'll be exiting to find a place where I can do that.

I don't mean to digress but just FMI how did you pass the speed limiter and got and accurate odo reading?

Speedohealer V4.Stock gearing and a setting for 'correct for factory speedo error','gearing combo' combined with 'tire size' will get you past the limiter.The actual,real speed will be displayed on the speedometer,and...that neat little deal...'top speed recall' button.The odometer will align with the corrected speed.You will get an accurate odometer.At 60 mph I counted 60 seconds,confirming with my clock on there,and at one mile,the odo turned over another mile.(going by mile markers along the road.And not just one mile either...several in a row...she was dead on).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/21/2011 @ 1:01 AM *

Good to know. Thanks Blue!

Blue, are you saying you have bypassed the limiter by ONLY correcting for factory speedo error? I thought the idea was to adjust the speedo way low (like -50%) so that the speed sensor would never get close to clocking 186 mph. Theoretically, you should be able to hit 199.2 mph by adjusting the speedo to -7% which is stock speedo error adjustment. Under those conditions, the speed sensor is going to trigger the limiter if there is any tire slippage at all. You go over a small bump or something and the wheel is going to easily spin up over 200 mph for a millisecond or two. The countershaft sprocket is going to spin past 200 mph too and the speed sensor will see that.

You never had a problem having the limiter come on even with such a low adjustment as -7%. That is almost no adjustment at all. Allows for 13 mph faster than stock (199 mph)----provided the rear wheel stays perfectly planted. It seems like it would work but you are coming very close to hitting the limiter----if I am understanding the TSL and the SpeedoHealer bypass correctly.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/22/2011 @ 10:15 PM *

Got my 190/50 Rosso Corsa mounted so now the front matches the rear. The front still got lots of mile so I'll see how the tires perform. I'm going to take a 4 hr round trip into twisted territory on wednesday so I'll keep you guys posted.

Okay Rook...what they show on the website...and the little checkbox for "correct for factory speedo error"...okay...that will correct the 5,7 percent factory error.NOW,the reading they give in the same "window"...the (-)whatever it is for your setup(estimated)this time....makes the value go past the 186 limiter.So you will have effectively bypassed the factory limiter...it will allow you to reach the upper atmosphere.So when you see....-4.0 on the led display(the setting for mine anyway) as you fire up yer bird,in actuality,that's -9 something.Which gets you past the limiter.You only want to use the -99.0 deal IF you have like an accurate radar or something,OR your mods are WAY top end setup.Your speedo will display something like 50mph when yer doing 200 mph.Something crazy like that.IF next time I do a high end run,I'm gonna check out my Tach.This is one thing I keep forgetting to do.To look at the tach and see just how far I am...or into the red.The Dyno sheets always show the rpm dropoff at like 11,000.But I think those bikes do not have a speedohealer set up on em.Never heard that mentioned.If not,then the only thing stopping the engine from winding past the 11,000 would be something INSIDE the ecu ?I think this engine has TWO limiters.One in the speedo circuit,and one INSIDE the ecu/engine itself.Something.Cause if you redline,it will begin to cough and stop any further engine speed.

At my recorded 190,it was NOT coughing or limiting as far as I could tell,it only stopped accelerating.Had the road been longer,she may have actually crept up farther,but she felt like she was at the end of usable power....and I don't know WHAT my tach was showing...so...IDK.I don't think it was redlining...but can't say for sure.Mine will continue to run without limiting at 11,500.Right there,it starts missing.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/8/2011 @ 2:43 PM *