I know for a fact that Sebastian did my ECU and not Nels. I have some files where I keep everything I've bought or done for my 14. I was going through it last night and I found a receipt for a money order from the Post Office. It was for $400 and it was made out to Sebastian Disney. If it was done by Nels it would've been made out to 2Wheeldynoworks. I wonder how many people he ripped off. Live and learn.

"Grn14, your H2 must really be a beast"...lol.I suppose.I haven't been able to ride her since I upgraded;)Soon.July.If all goes okay with the DMV.Totally shot myself in the foot on this one

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/5/2018 @ 1:44 PM *

The only time I've heard of low numbers like that is with a soft rear tire like the Shinko Hookup.

VicSteer: NOT RECOMMENDED.

I sent my ECU to 2Wheeldynoworks. Nels called me on Tuesday and said he reflashed it. He said CBlast did do some flashing on it, about 70% of what should've been done. He said I should notice a power difference and it should run smoother and cooler. Something else he told me was about the low dyno number, 187. He said they recently had 2 14's at his shop, with full exhaust. They dynoed in the low 190's which he said was really low. They were really lean in the higher rpm's. They drained the gas out of the tanks and took the fuel pump out. They pulled the pump housing off and took the filter out. They were almost completely plugged. They put new filters in and they both dynoed 204-206. The bikes were starving for gas at higher rpm's. He suggested I do the same to mine, so I took the fuel pump out and took the filter out. It was absolutely filthy. Black and so much grit (like sand) on it, I'm surprised it ran as good as it did. The bike only has 7,300 miles on it and I honestly thought I'd find a clean filter. I guess you never know what's in the gas at the stations. I'll try to get my bike dynoed soon to see if there's a difference.
If anyone wants to know the part # of the filter, or sock, as some people call it, it's 49019-0013. That's the original Kawasaki number. You can get them on e-bay or Amazon. They fit all kinds of Kawasaki's. Nel's said most motorcycles use the same fuel pump and they use this filter. I saw something kind of weird on the bottom of the metal base plate of the fuel pump. It said Kawasaki on the top and Mitsubishi on the bottom. I guess one of them is making fuel pumps for the other manufacturer. Something else I heard, don't know if it's true, is that Kawasaki doesn't want you to know about the fuel pump filter (because it's cheap). They want to sell you a new fuel pump.

Great forum contribution!!

5 Gold Stars

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 5/11/2018 @ 7:42 PM *

Thats right Crude thats some dam good info right there. Thanks for the heads up mokaw. I always fill up at shell or chevron and wonder if that would make a difference with the quality of fuel.

Nels did my stock 2012 with Delkevic tri-oval slip ons. It made 191 on a 30* C day. I did the straight flash first with just the ECU and followed up with a set of dyno runs to clean it up once the weather improved. The dyno tune made a huge rideability difference. My main reason was to get rid of the limiters and keep the TC settings I set. To get much improved rideabilty and good power is a bonus. I highly recommend 2wheeldynoworks and Nels personally, who's a real cordial guy. I live in Canada so, it was a little bit of ride down there but totally worth it.

Found it on ebay for 7.98 did a google search for 49019-0013 fuel filter,

Mokaw is the filter hard to take off the fuel pump? Do you have to take the fuel pump apart?

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7625.0

Added to my maintenance list of things to do for sure.

* Last updated by: piken on 5/17/2018 @ 11:28 AM *

It's not hard to get at the filter. When you pull the pump out of the tank, it's in a plastic housing mounted on the base plate. There are a couple of screws, one on each side of the plastic housing that you have to remove. After they're removed, take a flat screwdriver and pry on the bottom of the housing, between the housing and the baseplate. Do it slowly. The plastic housing will start to lift. Grab it by the top and it will pull off. You'll have to use a little force when pulling on it because there are 2 O-rings that make it a tight fit. When the housing is off, flip the whole thing upside down and you'll see the filter. It fits into the bottom of the fuel pump. You might have to use a screwdriver to pry it off because it's on there pretty tight. Keep pulling and it'll come off. When putting the plastic housing back on, you'll have to push pretty hard, just like when pulling it off, because of the 2 O-rings. It might not seem like it wants to go but it will.

Isn't there also a second fuel filter that is not replaceable? I know there's threads on here that show it on the Gen1.

Rook, I had everything apart because I blew it all out with my air compressor. It was all pretty dirty. I even took the pump out of the housing. The filter on the bottom of the pump is the only one I saw. And it was very bad.

Yes.It has a second internal filter.If reinstalling this filter is 'tight' because of the o-rings,I'd definitely put some light oil or grease on those just to be sure they didn't move from where they're supposed to be.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/17/2018 @ 5:01 PM *

here is the tea bag they are talking about.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7625.0

A couple more threads linked in my post halfway down this page. Maveric's post on the first link shows the internal filter that cannot be removed....he had to saw the pump housing apart to view the filter (and it looks pretty bad). Another guy (second link) apparently bypassed the OEM filter and modded in an external filtering system.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=DA5870E9-0EB1-1F1D-45E083385E9D06C2&searchTerm=fuel%20filter&page=1

I recall similar pics of the internal filter in Romans Flash thread. The filter actuallly appeared to have partially melted or disintegrated if I remember that correctly. Replacing the whole pump was the only cure in that situation, I'm sure.

I think the teabag might be the prefilter so the inner filter might still be OK even if the outer is shot.

Your bike will adjust injector duty % according to demands but if there simply is not enough fuel getting to the injectors, there's not much the ECU can do to correct that.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/17/2018 @ 5:34 PM *

Those are some good pictures on the threads you posted Rook. The pump and housing pictured are exactly like our 14's. Maverick found a filter inside the fuel pump and I'm sure it does it's job. Most of the problems with fuel starvation comes from the external filter at the bottom of the pump, the one in the pictures you posted. Mine looked worse than that and with only 7,300 miles on my bike. We must get some lousy gas in ND. I took carb cleaner and sprayed the filter and then blew it out with my air compressor. It was still pretty black and I'm fussy with my stuff so I ordered a new filter and put it in. To me, putting the old one back in would be like taking your oil filter off, dumping the dirty oil out, and putting it back on the bike. New is always better.

I forgot to mention, I got my ECU back from 2Wheeldynoworks last week. I thought my bike was smooth before. I can't believe the difference now. I noticed it right away. Cruising along on the highway the bike is super smooth. It used to have a lot of deceleration pop, too. That's totally gone now. It was well worth the price to get the CBlast flash out and get Nel's flash in.

To me, putting the old one back in would be like taking your oil filter off, dumping the dirty oil out, and putting it back on the bike. New is always better.

It used to have a lot of deceleration pop, too. That's totally gone now. It was well worth the price to get the CBlast flash out and get Nel's flash in.

Now that you have gotten rid of the crappy Cblast flash I want to know how it feels going from 187 to over 200 horsepower, not how smooth it is.

jdw, I've only ridden the bike once in the last week. I nailed it in 2nd at about 40 and the front wheel was off the ground until I shifted to 3rd at 120 and I had to let off because of a sharp curve. So yeah, it feels great. I have my name in at the Scooter Shack to get it on their dyno as soon as they get time. You'll find out the hp difference right after I do because I'll post it.

* Last updated by: mokaw on 5/19/2018 @ 9:33 AM *

Hey Moko, are these fuel filters small like ~1.25 in Dia? The one I bought just arrived and I thought it would be bigger, guess I was thinking like 3-4 in not 1 in??

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 5/19/2018 @ 4:45 PM *

Crude, page up on this thread about 9 posts. There's a post by Rook on 05/17/18 at 5:26 p.m. He's got 2 different threads you can click on. Click on the 1st one that says http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7625.0. There are pictures of the fuel pump housing and with the housing off the base plate. It shows a picture of the exact filter that goes on the bottom of the fuel pump. It's about 1 3/4 inches by about 1 3/4 inches with a plastic piece protruding up on one end. The plastic piece is what presses onto the fuel pump. I punched in the Kawasaki part number and it showed up on e-bay and Amazon. I got mine from Amazon for $16.99. It's a genuine Kawasaki part. I think you can get them cheaper, but I wanted mine in a hurry. I guess Maverick found another filter inside the fuel pump itself, but I think he had to cut the pump apart to get to it and had to replace the pump.

Thanks Man, seems like I got the right part. Whats a bit weird, when I ordered the basic part from ebay they were ~$8 and the ebay pic was of 4 filters. Well, that's what I got 4 of these for ~$8. I bought a scratch off lottery ticket today but no love there ..