I have my PC5 under the seat and being connected to the throttle bodies subharness, the PC5 wire is just long enough to make it. The Ignition Module has a wire of similar length but it has to go all the way up to the stick coils subharness. I could install the Ignition Module on the ram air tube as it is intended but I want it under the seat and it has to CANCOM cable to the PC5 anyway so best to be close by.

I'm thinking of using the same connectors that the stick coil subharness has to make two extension wires about 2 to 3 feet long (red wires in diagram) having the same gauge wire as the Ignition Module wire. will it be ok to use that to lengthen the Ignition Module wire to make the inline connection at the stick coils subharness?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/5/2017 @ 9:56 PM *

It's all analog so it should be ok. Not sure I know exactly what wire these are, are they basic conductors/insulators or are they coaxial, (ie. inner conductor/insulator with a shield?)

It is connector A. The one that is bolted to the LH reed valve cover.
The connectors are Furakawa 090 as far as I can tell.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/furukawa-rfw-090.html

Looks exactly like the OEM connectors with yellow insides and plugs on the Ignition Module wire look the same. DJ was not able to confirm or deny they use Furakawa plugs for this because DJ apparently doesn't manufacture their own products. They did say wiring it up as such would void the warranty of the Ignition Module, though.

So you think that would work hey, rudy? I can't see why not. The bike still works with the Ignition Module wires alone and those add about 36 inches to the stock wiring round trip. Electricity will travel another two feet just as easily.

The next best option is pop it under the fuel tank cover and run a 48" CANCOM cable to the PC5. I might start out with that setup to see how the bike responds. That way, if the Ignition Module isn't working with the wire extension for some reason, I'll have some clue.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/6/2017 @ 5:37 PM *

Now that I look at the pic I posted, looks like Connector A from the main wiring harness could stretch down near the T bodies subharness where the PC5 is connected. That would be where the signal goes into the IM. I might only need one extension to get the signal OUT to the connector on the valve cover.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/6/2017 @ 5:46 PM *

The wires poking out of that connector look like just plain old wire (I'd guess 18 gauge stranded copper wire) so I would expect it to be fairly easy to extend the wiring.

My only hesitation with adding another set of connectors like you are planning is that adds 2 more connectors which are 2 more points that could cause problems. I personally would (and have) cut and splice additional wire within the original connector. Soldered and using heat shrink tubing should give you a very solid and reliable connection.

As for the warranty, keep in mind its probably only a 1 year warranty which I'm guessing is already expired.

Yes, in a couple months it will be a year.

I hate to solder because it's a brand new IM but that is a good idea. I guess I could always solder it back the way it was if there's any problem.

Thanks, Nightmare.

Thank you rudy and Nightmare. I have decided to knuckle under and place the IM under the fuel tank cover with a loooooong CAN cable to the PC5. Eventually I'll move the PC5 and AutoTune under the fuel tank cover too. I'll sure miss lifting my seat off to view my modules anytime i want but the tank cover makes more sense. No wiring mods necessary and I have everything close to the dash where I will have lots of switches, gauges, lights and wires, many of which will go to inputs on the modules. Under the seat I need more room for NOS stuff anyway.

Well, looks like under the tank cover came up snake eyes. You can't fit even one DJ module under there. The front of the cover has about an inch gap above that center mounting point. I don't even think you could fit AutoTune under there without stressing the heck out of the plastic. Maybe something really small like a Speedohealer. You could fit a DJ module over on each side under the tank fairing where it comes to a point. Seems like it would fit perfectly and be held by the foam nice and snug. I'd do it but that seems like kind of a warm spot. Going with the ram air tubes right up in front below the speedo and tach. Then I'll really be able to see my modules anytime I want.

I put my 3 modules under the left hand ram air cover, there's plenty of room in there, easy to route the cables to where they need to go, I tapped into the marker light (the small LED light on the headlight cluster) as my switched 12v source and used the main battery ground on the other side of the bike.

I had to extend the ground wire to get it to reach but that was about it. To access the modules its only the 3 fairing screws that hold the cover on. I'm sure if I looked hard enough I could probably find a quick release type fastener to make it even easier to access the modules but I don't need access to the PCV very often so its not been a big enough issue for me to worry about.

Thanks, yeah, the way DJ says to do it is probably the best. Not the neatest IMO but you can use everything conveniently. I may end up really giving in and going with that. Now I see I will have a struggle reaching the USB ports if I mount under the instrument clusters. I hope that PC5 harness will stretch to below the speedo. AutoTune is really long so I don't think that will be a problem.

I ended up routing the wires up the LH side and placing the IM and PC5 along with AutoTune behind the ram air tubes right under the instrument cluster. I will see the LEDs all the time and the modules should be pretty safe from water and dirt. The IM wire length was fine to reach under the tach but it was too short to stretch across to under the speedo. I could have ran the IM wire over the engine and under the fairing stay to reach the speedo but I have gobs of wiring under there already and don't want to add to the mess. The PC5 wire was just barely long enough to stretch under the speedo. I had to lengthen the Autotune sensor wires about 9 inches to place next to the PC5. The new style of CAN cables that connect the modules were a pain but I got them in and everything still fit in place.

I have not started the bike yet but everything is hooked up, taped in place and waiting for fuel tank installation and I hope an unseasonably warm day. If it all works, I plan to RTV some styrofoam shaped gap fillers to fit between the modules and the ram air tubes. The tubes are not flat enough to just velcro the modules in place.

I'm not clear on what the function is on the circuit you want to lengthen. If it's analog level like a voltage/ground or an analog signal pulse you should be ok. If its a digital interface you have to be concerned about a change in the impedance due to the new/added conductor. Some (most) digital transmit/receive components are sensitive to interface impedance. I would try and start with a new connector/wires cable so you dont cut/splice the stock cable (maybe hard to do and match the connectors) I would also try and talk to the autotune and PC5 tech support if possible. You should also make sure everything works correctly before you modify any of the cables just to get a baseline.

Sounds like you are close!

I'm not clear on what the function is on the circuit you want to lengthen.

Originally it was the ALL of the circuits. The IM harness was too short to reach from under the seat all the way up to the connection up to the left of the valve cover. Instead of lengthening the IM harness, I just moved all the modules closer to where DJ intended them to be installed.

I did need to lengthen the six wires from the O2 sensor to the Autotune module and that is a digital signal.

Some (most) digital transmit/receive components are sensitive to interface impedance.

I think it will be ok. AutoTune instructions say you can trim them shorter. I will shoot a message to DJ to ask anyway. Worst case scenario is I would have to unsolder the wires, place the Autotune module farther from the PC5 and use a longer CAN cable which I already have just incase.

You should also make sure everything works correctly before you modify any of the cables just to get a baseline.