What do you get on 2016 SE vs stock 14r? I know Brembo in front.

* Last updated by: MarkOne on 5/11/2016 @ 5:23 PM *

Braided stainless steel brake and clutch hoses and a different color (dark matte carbon)

The main difference is thicker brake rotor (OE 5.0mm Brembo 5.5mm), which if you plan to do some heavy and persistent braking may help prevent brake fade. You get Brembo branded master cylinders and calipers all around. The Brembo components are slightly lighter as well (I think 1-2 lbs) which is something especially considering it's unsprung weight.

Basically if you just want to ride the bike on the stteet and do an occasional track day these components won't make a significant difference in the way the bike handles or brakes. To a point it probably wouldn't even make much difference with aggressive track riding.

The OE Nissin components are excellent brakes and many of the lower end bikes people seek out the 14 based Nissin components as upgrades.

Don't you also get a new dash lighting setup? I think I've read that there is no real difference there though..
Smoked fluid reservoirs too!
Does anyone know what the whole brake package would cost if you bought it separately? Seems like good brembo calipers and rotors get very expensive..

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 5/20/2016 @ 1:00 PM *

Far as I know, they are not top of the line Brembo and that makes all the dif. I really doubt you will notice any improvement with Brembos. The stock brakes are superb. I know of a gen1 owner who was an amateur road race enthusiast. He went with mid-level Brembo calipers and a master cylinder and he said it was no better but very cool bling. He said the Brembos that would actually be better than OEM calipers would be several thousand dollars. The 14's MC already has the optimum orifice diameter and that's why the brakes are so great. Brembos look nice but Not worth it. Not necessary. Maybe on a track bike if you are a pro.

I don't usually do long trips though, would take me years to get to 15k and I want to run the race oil that I've seen on brocks site and Shane's zx14 build..

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/20/2016 @ 8:55 PM *

I doubt I'd really notice the difference as both systems would be a significant step up from my Versys 650 commuter. The cost at this point to duplicate the new brembo brake system seems like it would be at least $1500 for me. The se isn't that much more expensive than the standard 14r, so it seems like something worth stepping up to. I don't understand why other parts of the world get special editions with ohlins and akrapovic? At least the brakes are something, they appear to be the only change since 2012?

Get whatever your favorite paint scheme is. That's how important this is.

The only execption is if you're going to try to spennd a bunch of money on weight reduction. Then it's a no brainer. If the Brembos are 2 lbs lighter and I thin $400 more (SE) $200/lb is pretty cheap and will be hard to eliminate those lbs otherwise.

Good weight loss modification via aftermarket parts is often $400/lb. Depends on what parts you get. Sometimes you do a lot better and sometimes you break even. Occasionally stuff weighs more if it has extra controls like an Ohlins shock. The bulk of weight loss modification is free. Take unnecessary stuff off.

I seem to be one of the few that like the new colors, and for me to duplicate the lines, master cylinders, rotors and calipers would be quite a bit. The only two affordable weight loss pieces are the removal of unnecessary factory parts, and the battery.. At least the aluminum bolt kits aren't too expensive.
I love weight reduction. My zx10 has titanium everywhere, carbon fiber tank, is keyless, with race subframe and only tail lights.

hahah the aluminum bolts are not too expensive but when you do the math, it's very expensive /lb of weightloss. I've made about 4 orders of Pro-Blots, each costing about a hundred-fifty bucks. I'd guestimate that comes to about a lb of weight loss. There's your $400/ lb. Battery, sprockets, exhaust are good weight loss mods for the money. Mirror removal to bar end is great. Gas cap, wheels and side stand about half the weight of OEM. Most other stuff like Levers, suspension and rearsets are about the same weight as OEM.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/24/2016 @ 5:18 PM *

If you get Probolts fairing kit (or any aluminum kit) be careful. I've already lost 3. I have a feeling I sheered 2 off the left lower cowling from ground contact. Another rattled out (air duct cover), although I think that one was my fault because I think I loosened it and forgot to tighten it.

The reason I think I sheered the two is because no other bolts have went loose and it's odd both did. I recall in the last few months someone lost a lower fairing...I wouldn't be surprised at all if that's how without those two bolts it's pretty floppy.

I always have used blue LokTite on the lowest bolts each side. Also all front fender bolts. I use LokTite on all non-wellnut fairing fasteners, never use LokTite on fasteners with wellnuts. --just for anyone's info i know I have said it a lot. Haven't had a problem with engine cover bolts and those I used the included neverseize on. Except for well nuts, I tend to use blue loktite on all aluminum bolts because I never torque them nearly as much as steel.

That makes good sense. With all the vibrations on my smaller bikes I always try to use loktite. I was hoping the vibes would be less of an issue with the big 14..

From the pics and info it looks like the SE only has brembo front calipers. Looks like the rear caliper is the same, but the new rotor is different? Might have to upgrade the rear to a brembo caliper in the future to match the front..
I really like the CRG carbon levers that I have on my zx10, they seem to be very light, and beautifully made.
I'm planning on slowly copying Shane's LSR build. Might have to save a few years for those wheels.
Hopefully I can pick up a used exhaust SMeg exhaust around here somewhere, when money and the family allows..

No need for loctite imo. I tightened those lower cowl bolts the same (didn't torque, but similar feel). Checking the right side they were still just like I put them in. That's why I'm fairly sure they were sheered off then considering both were gone.

The duct cover what happened was when I put my bike back together I didn't fully seat the turn single connectors and both came undone. I didn't want to tear it all back apart and I thought I could get to them just removing the duct covers (just to give some room). As it turned out, I didn't need to was able to get my hands down and a couple fingers on them and clipped them. But I don't recall tightening the bolt back up. It's either that or I set it somewhere in my garage and can't find it...I actually think that's a possiblity but have looked around and not found it.

I really like the CRG carbon levers that I have on my zx10, they seem to be very light, and beautifully made.

It's either that or I set it somewhere in my garage and can't find it.

If I could remember where I put stuff down I could get shit done in half the time. Maybe even before I forget what it was I was doing!

Not much to lose on levers, but if you add titanium bolts on everything on the handle bars, carbon short levers, and light/compact bar ends there should be a couple of lbs there.
I'm always tempted to buy another set of fairing bolts for bikes just because I always lose something along the way.. Besides, aluminum or titanium! Only money..
Has anyone ever put on a different rear caliper? In the spirit of the SE it would be cool to have brembo calipers all around..
Caliper bracket for brembo

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 5/26/2016 @ 6:21 AM *