What's up fellow busakilla owners. I'm new here so bear with me. I have an08 silver 14 with full muzzy powercommander speedohealer couple of other mods...but here's my concern. I've installed full hid kit lo&hi from ddm tuning. Everything is installed correct but every once and awhile when I switch on the hi's the bike dies.?.?starts right back up.if down longer than a min. Odometer and clock resets. Installed new battery thought was fixed but did it again this morning. Mech and I checked off that it's not the stator or RR. I'm thinking ballast. What's. Weird is that it doesn't happen all the time. Rackin my brain with this. This forum has always helped me so I joined. Any input guys. Thanks.

Does it do it with the highbeam flash trigger? Odd one for sure.

I ride in at night a lot to work. And coming out these back roads I need lots of light. Yep. Only when I hit the switch. While riding normal with regular lows she's fine.

Not the normal highbeam on switch. The flash to pass, left index finger. See if it does it with that. Trying to isolate the switch circuit... Swap high and low ballasts (do this during the daytime).

Do the Gen 1s have a passing trigger?

No flash to pass switch on gen 1.

Say I have a backup h4458 wired in to the high beam side. I never lose 12+. That's watts happening light pun your roll of the toggle switch. So if the EE's here can chime in, does that sound workable?

sounds like either a bad ballast or a bad ground to me.

Wouldn't she cut off more if it was a bad ground.?.?And not only when hi's ignite. Also aren't bad ballast symptoms different. Wouldn't I get some other signs while riding with hi's on if bad ballast?.?

1. Bad ground = Lights out as in 'nada.'
2. Bad ground = 'Short' the harness wire or blow fuse to save it.
3. Bad ground = Battery posts rock back and forth so a loose cable goes 'intermittent.'
4th Variable = Fiddlefukeyround with the closed loop.

My ground is not 1 = I have everything on once I flip to low, wait, key off, I am not in nadaland.
My short to ground is not spiking the fuse as in direct short is not number 2.
My deal is a kill switch kind of kill that does not short but ends as a good ground source. My deal is not 3 as intermittent comes and goes, it enters the 4th variable when the basic tree no longer applies.

I am going to check my hid wires against bulletproof:
R/Bk = Hi beam indicator.
R/Y = Passing [euro spec] switch is not that switch.
Bl/Y = Lo relay.
R/Bl = Hi relay.

What are my hid wires connected to?

You lost me Hub....as you said my deal is like a kill switch die also. She dies like I shut her off and then lights back up and have to restart motor. All this happens only when hi switch engaged and not always.?.?

Then, it's 3 = Intermittent. This is strange for sure as are intermitts. Here is my quick an dirty cure, because I am not there physically chasing this down.

Suggestion 1: If I have 4 bulb sockets in the nose, all I need to do is capture 2 of those in the nose, I let the OE's dangle without their bulbs in place. I now use these 2 beam holes for my hid lights. I fuse off the battery's (+) side of the battery post, ground the hid on the frame or nose hanger.

That says I have a toggle in the middle of the fuse and hid light. I am out of the OEM's switch as far as messing with a loop of capturing a wire off the bike's wire harness. The loop is like setting a tre in the middle of a gear position sensor. You caused a code with that wire capture is to tamper with the loop. Stay out of the loop of a computer bike is go the another route.

Suggestion 2. Call the company and tell them the symptom. Here is what I don't understand. There are plenty of hids on the 14's that no one has a problem like this. Where are our wires connect to? I can't see what you did, shoot or shout colors of wires to wire.

What do the directions say to wire this up to? If I see the hid setup, usually it's that simple of one wire in red the other in black. There are 2 boxes or say transformers/ballasts or what have you, the bulb and you add one more in series so if a ballast/former/bulb takes a shit the other stays on is my guess.

Suggestion 3. If you want to find the problem, remove all of the hid lights, go back to suggestion 1 so you have lights, then toggle the high beam and if needed, us the hid's high beam via toggled on. So the hids are running remote [out of the loop] and you are flapping that toggle like running over the rumble strips.
a. If it did not stop the bike for one peep of treating that toggling motion: it is not the switch; it is not a glitch in the OE wiring.
b. If it does dropout, then it's the switch assembly.
c. If it does not do it at all, stay out of the wire you are using off the OEM.

Make any sense now?

I actually DID have this problem on my 07...turned out to be a cracked lamp...did just like Mura's.It would shut of sometimes...I'd have to stop...cycle the key...and she'd be fine again.Gotta be REAL careful installing those hids...they will crack sometimes and you won't notice it...until it starts really cracking...sounds like it was Mura has.I replaced the bad bulb...things worked great from then on.The lamp also STILL worked with that cracking...but as a 'lucky' guess...I found it and replaced.

Also...the earliest ones for the 14...you had to push the terminal down into that plug-in...if you didn't secure it with some rubber cement...they did vibrate loose...same effect as having a cracked bulb.

Best rubber cement would be the very workable, 'amazing goop.' So as Grn points out, we remote the hid out of the loop, we would have flickered one of the hid bulbs I would imagine. I would now turn the hid lights on, hold and tap the bulb bodies to see who's filament is broken?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/30/2014 @ 8:34 PM *

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* Last updated by: HelgaBajaj on 7/3/2014 @ 8:21 PM *

Actually...with mine...it was the BASE where it cracked free(never allow the bulb to contact anything while installing into the socket).A good clue is...IF you notice one bulb kind of "vibrating" on the illuminated road surface...that's a good clue that the bulb had cracked at the base...OR...the socket has somehow partly come out from the factory bulb socket cutout on the housing.Having it crack at the base will allow air in or damage the ground in that bulb.Happened to me...same symptoms.It would work...then suddenly STOP working if I switched to high beams.Also would either shut the power down...or cause a stutter with the engine.

If I recall right...I had to snip a tiny piece from the one tab(the longer one) to get the three to slide(the tabs) into the socket and able to turn to the 'lock' position.If you don't do that....you can get it cocked ever so slightly...you can crack the bulb base and not realize it.Are your high beams shining equally in front of you?Hitting ground at the same spot ahead?Better yet...pull up to your garage wall....turn on high beams...are they aligned equally?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/3/2014 @ 10:28 PM *

Could a unsecure ballast cause this? I secured the ballast and so far so good.ballast was jumping around while riding. Zip tied down.its raining here but last ride no prob. Hope fix is correct fix.