Air Filter Replacement

Some great pictures and instruction on this thread:

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=41B1EF59-D56B-84E2-10CEB4FA902ED945

Do First:
Remove ram air covers and fuel tank cover. (see Fairings Removal).

Tools:
5mm hex tool
14” long square dowel
rag moistened with WD-40

Removal

1. Use a 5mm hex tool to remove the two screws that fasten the air cleaner element door.

Remove air cleaner element door.

2. Pull the air filter straight out to the left.

Discard the filter if it is dirty.

This is how my filter looked on the bottom (intake side) after 11,000 miles. 8,000 miles is a better service interval.

Installation

3. Use a 14” long square dowel and a rag moistened with WD-40 to wipe the front, back and RH side air cleaner element holder guides clean of any dust or debris that might have accumulated.

If anything drops into the air box, remove the air box access covers (see AIR BOX ACCESS COVERS REMOVAL) and remove it with a vacuum cleaner.

4. There is no need to apply an oil seal to the edges of an OEM air filter. The foam on the edges is lightly oiled at the factory.

Slide a new filter into the guides of the air cleaner element holder and push in until it stops. The screen goes on top as shown below.

5. Using a 5mm hex tool, reinstall the air cleaner element door.

Torque, Air Cleaner Element Door Bolts: 61” lbs.

Reinstall the fuel tank fairing and ram air covers.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/16/2017 @ 8:32 PM *

And you did wipe the guide tracks clean before installing?

The SM DOES mention the possibility of the throttle sticking if debris falls into T bodies. This too, I can attest---I left a piece of paper in the carb of my Yam DT-100 back in6th grade. It wouldn't kick start. Boy, did I have a surprise when I finally got it to roll start. WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! Wide open 1st gear down the road I went-- with wet pants.

I added you important detail, Hub. Thank you very much for mentioning.

And you did inspect for any debris after moving enough contaminants far from the tracks so the foam does not box up all that track dust up against the other end of the filter wall; don't forget.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/13/2011 @ 9:23 AM *

IOW---Wipe the track clean, not just where the filter slides against but especially the top edge of the track which is really a part of the floor of the end chamber of the ram air which is the chamber of the end of the UNfiltered airflow. You no wipe, you get those clingons dropping in when you have no filter to stop them.

Replaced mine after 10500 miles yesterday and it was more dirty than yours Rook! They say 12000 but they also say replace when you ride in the rain or muddy terrain, so basically they're saying if it's dirty before 12000 don't blame us I did forget to wipe though.... What about taking a vacuum to the airbox before throwing in a new filter?

* Last updated by: dragking on 7/16/2011 @ 10:09 PM *

If your filter was working, the airbox should be clean (theoretically--I always hear the 14's airbox is NOT airtight).

I can't see any reason to not vacuum out after pulling a dirty old filter. Only problem would be finding a vacuum hose attachment that would fit through the air cleaner element door. Also, pretty hard to see through the element door while you clean house. When I had those bugs in there, I vacumed by removing the bulkhead doors under the gas tank and sticking the nozzle in there.

I believe the little square pits that the dad bug carcasses lay in are designed to catch larger stuff that might get past the filter.

believe the little square pits that the dad bug carcasses lay in are designed to catch larger stuff that might get past the filter.

* Last updated by: dragking on 7/17/2011 @ 4:32 PM *

^^^Exactly how I feel. Ironically, the work can get to be pretty stressful too. lol. Many bad words uttered.

Rookster picked right up on the subtleties of the airbox design.You did notice where the critters are lodged.That is no accident!But I'm curious now....I don't remember being able to slide my hand into the guide rails on MY airbox.I think yer askin for clingons to wind up in yer throttlebodies tryin to "clean" that rail off.I've never attempted to do that.But then,I always use the sealing grease on mine

That's the BUSA rook.The Busa's airbox is not sealed well.Start yer bike.Stuff a rag in the ram duct....just fer shits an giggles .

NOTHING is getting past that filter into the throttlebodies.NOTHING.Unless yer using some aftermarket high flow race filter.Then ya...expect dust and such to get through.The more yer filter gets stuff collected on it,the better it's going to filter...to a point.That "dirty filter" there actually has a lot more capacity to go.But I'm with ya on changing and keeping er "clean".Mine are pretty darn filthy when I change.LOTS of debris here where I'm at.I can't go by the manual suggestions at all.Dust everywhere.Kinda amazing really that there's so much shit flyin around in our "clean air" here.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/18/2011 @ 1:08 AM *

don't remember being able to slide my hand into the guide rails on MY airbox.I think yer askin for clingons to wind up in yer throttlebodies tryin to "clean" that rail off.I've never attempted to do that.

never tried either. I guess it is entirely possible that some clingons could drop in the T bodies just when you first pull the old filter before you wipe. All you could do is put something under the filter whenn you pull it. I know I go overboard on these procedures sometimes but not even I am going to do that. Pull the tank off and remove bulkheads door to place a pan over the T bodies??? ....I suppose I could...if it's only every 11,000 miles/

We have a trench with slanted sides in the air box floor right in front of T bodies. That is where any debris that might fall in is supposed to stay trapped.

Can't get your hands in the slot? It says to meguybeer a tool to sweep up the ram sludge.

I guess if a guy's gonna go KooKoo over a filter rail...he could always remove those airbox plates up top...look in there...check the rails before he slid that puppy outta there?Might be interesting to see exactly WHAT is "building up" along there.As far as I know...there's no way to slide something under that filter as you remove it.I've never seen any stuff on my filter rails(in the airbox part).I just remove it gently like the manual says.

^^^Exactly how I feel. Ironically, the work can get to be pretty stressful too. lol. Many bad words uttered.

The anal part is the tune

Man! hub is commenting on my post and I have only 40 of them how cool is that. I M a MADE MAN NOW! lol. I found out the hard way about tune and power. I thought I needed some "loud" pipes, little did I know that I would need, a PC, a tune etc now that I came this far why not go all the way with a 16t sprocket, galfer rotors, ohlins susp, gilles rearsets, 10w40 Amsoil (yeah I know Hub.. I don't need it but it makes me sleep better at night knowing that she gets the best) etc I'm gna need excessive compulsive therapy or maybe I should start having kids, that oughtta make me chill. maybe!

* Last updated by: dragking on 7/18/2011 @ 9:48 PM *

No worries on that stripped screw head bro...I found mine at the rear of the airbox,trapped nicely in one of those"square shaped indents" There just happened to be a nice broken wellnut back there too!Ah...Kawasaki thought of EVERYTHING!!!!

lol I'm glad!

updated

done

No mention removing the sneeze screen? The flow characteristics seem to cause a smoother running engine.

Yep...I always remove that..since way back when you first said something about it...WAY back.

I will need to try that but I doubt I will notice a big enough change. The BMC race filter doesn't seem any different than an OEM filter with screen in. I would like to know how much it weighs without the screen. That would be reason enough to remove it.

The reason is not weight but a speed event. Less drag, faster flow. Same as porting a head. Less friction over a smooth surface. Off subject: the head has always been the power maker. They kept straightening out the port curve. The curve like on a road, you travel much faster in a straight than around a curve. Make sense? There are no secret tricks in racing... just common sense. And if you have gobs of common sense, both you and the CS guy buy the same exact racing parts, but his is faster. That's the only difference I've come to find out years ago.

It was always... "Why didn't I think of that?"

You uh.... doing a little work on the bike this winter???

yup. Slower than usual but sure. It's cold. I have to walk to the storage unit. I've got all my modules relocated to the front now. Installed an ignition module and ready to start wiring up some cool switches with LED status lights. Installing illumiglo gauge faces, progressive controller and nitrous bottles. That should just about do it for this winter. LOL i've had some of this junk for years and just putting it on now.

Need to change sprockets and brake pads and tires too. $$$

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/22/2017 @ 12:00 AM *