I read on another site that some guys were having the same issues-they bought the "relay" harness-their problems were solved.I can't say either way.I do know that when I bought my FIRST set of Xentech's-the instructions stated to "run the lamps for about 5 minutes" on FIRST LIGHT UP.I did not see that in the DDM instructions.Could be what causes the lamps to intermittently not light up?I redid my connections on the stock connectors(Blue and Green ones)by inserting the leads of the bulbs straight in to the connector-instead of using the "plug" connector.Then once they were all lit,I siliconed the connectors so they wouldn't vibrate loose or anything.That solved the lighting problem for me anyway.It wasn't the ballasts-it was the connectors at the stock plugs in the stock harness.

that could be also, i didn't run them for long when i first put them on, and they seem to do it less after they warm up...i used the connectors that the bulbs came with along with the blue and green ones on the bike and cut the tabs out of the bulbs connector and wedged them together and used electrical tape to hold them together. It's just that one bulb that's doing it. i thought the relay harness was for those remote connections from the switch to the bulb...my guess is it could be the bulb, cause that particular one i had the power on while i was making the connection and it went on and off a couple times when i was connecting it

I think the relay harness more or less "stabilizes" the current and gives it the initial pop to light the lamps.If your one lamp is coming on at all-it's NOT the ballast,OR the ground hooked up backwards.It's a connection there at one of those connectors.OR,you need the relay harness.When these bulbs go,it will be VERY evident-it will flash and break that electrode on the bulb.You'll definitely know it's blown.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/16/2009 @ 12:47 AM *

well i doubt its the wiring because once they start up they don't die off at all until i turn them off. the relay does provide a faster switching rate than a person can every switch a switch, that's probably it, that initial "pop" like you said to light off the bulb. Kinda like if you have flouresant lights at home and it doesn't turn on the first time you switch the switch faster to get it to light off. I'm starting to drift towards the starter at the same time after double checking all of the connections, could be a weak one...i guess it's not something i'm going to spend too much time with, and will wait for it to completely crap out and send it back since they claim the lifetime warrenty

I had some pesky starting problems with one of mine as well-let me guess(just for the heck of it)....it's your right side low beam?

close lol, its my right high beam, like it would come on initially if i start the bike with highs on, but if i switch it off highs and then back to highway, i got the one eye closed deal and have to play with the switch a couple times to get it bak on

I ended up replacing the one bulb that was acting like that.Has done fine ever since.You might just inspect the bulb housing itself.You'll see a small metal ring going around the inside edge if the bulb receptacle.If I'm not mistaken,that metal ring contacts the stock fitting in the lens unit(maybe not,but it does ride against the bottom of the bulb).You might want to check and make sure that ring is contacting that area just around the glass bulb .You can remove the bulb assembly from the lens there,and just inspect it.Maybe have to manipulate it just a bit so it makes good contact with the bulb ground .When you turn the bulb into the housing,do you feel it "lock" in there?(DON'T turn the bulb to lock excessively with the black two wire leads that are coming from the bulb-it will crack the connection under that black shrink tape material).You'll feel it if it cracks while you're trying to get it to lock.But it should give a bit of resistance as it locks in.Just don't overdo it.Ya-I had to push the starter(while she was running) to get mine to come on-said" forget this"-just replaced the bulb-worked okay.Once it came on,it stayed on.But............turning off the bike,I always had to check in front to see if it was coming back on when I restarted-got to be a real drag!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/17/2009 @ 7:16 AM *

got my ddm hids 55 6k hi and low. put them in and one high beam would light and then go right out.. and then when it did work i put the high beams on and the bike died.. my kit had two open wires that pluged in to the stock plug but it had open wires.. can anyone help..

Flip the wires one side at a time. They are polarity specific. They normally do not ignite when reversed.

are you guys running the HID Kit Wiring Harness with your hids? i have 55w 6k low and high and i have all kinds of problems. now they tell me i need the wiring harness that goes to the battery.its extra it doesnt come with the kits.. i have ddm 55w 6k h9 and h11

* Last updated by: onewheel on 4/6/2010 @ 7:43 PM *

No-no harness needed.(unless they've changed their installation parts or something).Do you have a pic of the complete uninstalled unit with wires?Pls post if you do(or can).Here ya are-a pic of the DDM's.......NOTHING connects to your battery-so they're trying to sell ya a relay harness.What problems are you having?There should be NO open wires at all.All connections should come with a plug on them.It's possible with all the complaints from customers about the plug connections not working well that they left the plugs OFF of the ground plug lines to make it easier to install so it would work better.Maybe that's what you have?Any pics would be good.IF THEY HAVE ALL LIT UP,whether one by one,or any combo,the ground is okay.Now-they should NOT shut off your engine.SOMETHING is very wrong there.If your grounds are correct-the lamp will light.The finicky part I had with mine was the connection at the stock lamp plug-the blue one and the green one.BOTH of those would not connect well with the DDM plug on there.I had to remove that plug,and insert the lead down into the factory connector and silicone them in there after I had them lighting.(not while they were on of course!)Another thing DDM does not say-but another company DID say-was when you FIRST install and turn them on-let them stay on for at least 5 minutes to fully "burn in".They don't need to be in the factory headlamp socket to come on once your wiring is correct.They can be turned on "outside" of the bike,just hanging there on the sides.Then after ya get em going,install into the headlamp receptacle.(with em turned OFF of course).If yer gonna check em that way....DON'T allow em to sit against your fairing-you will fry a hole in it!And don't EVER touch the glass portion of the bulb with anything-finger prints will cause the bulb to fail early on.If you already have touched em,best to use a soft cotton cloth to wipe em off-no paper towels or anything that would scratch the bulbs.And be careful about installing as well-that you don't scratch the bulb when you first insert it into the metal factory socket.You just turn the bulb plug in the socket till it tightens up,and it will give you a little kind of "click" feeling as it locks in.It MAY not do that either,but when it's snug in the socket,don't keep cranking on it to get it to lock in-you'll snap the leads in the black shrink wrap connection there.(if it has the connection-to-bulb that way).If it's a regular plug connector,you should have nothing to worry about when locking it in to it's socket.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/6/2010 @ 10:58 PM *

im thinking of getting the harness. sometimes have to flip the hi-lo switch a couple times to get the hi's to light up my understanding is the harness supplies a more stable power supply to the lights and for only $20 what the hell plus harness has an inline fuse so if anything goes wrong fuse goes before the melting of the ballasts.

just got off the phone with ddm and they said they've had trouble with the highs on motorcycles they need more power to ignite, they suggest using the harness for the highs on motorcycles more so if using 55w hids 1 harness will connect to both highs $15. And BTW if you haven't been to their site lately the hid kits are 1/2 what we paid for them just last fall.

+1 on the prices, if you don't mind dealing with the crossed wiring and loose connections. If your handy, not a problem.
I had to go over the wiring completed though.

extra dont get too excited bout the prices on ddm just went in to order the harness for $15 that was $25 but when you get to check out is when you get the suprise...S&H $17 and that was the cheapest shipping looks like theyve cut prices in half but tripled the S&H so really paying the same or more now lol

That's cruel...........

when you get to check out is when you get the suprise...S&H $17 and that was the cheapest shipping looks like theyve cut prices in half but tripled the S&H so really paying the same or more now lol

Sounds like they have caught on to the E-Bay trick. I have fallen for this more then once.

I found a supplier for the relay harness on Ebay 1 harness for both highs $15.25 tyd. h9 & h11 is the same harness just be sure to specify 1 of those #'s when ordering paypal wont let you include that info so after I ordered mine I called them upand they noted it. Let you know how it works out when I get it installed. Heres the link if anyone is interested

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-Fuse-Relay-Wiring-Harness-H10-H11-H13-9003-9004_W0QQitemZ170413828608QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ad74aa00#ht_5721wt_1167

ok got the relay harness hooked up finally and all works well hi's ignite everytime now

WoHoo...good job Scott!Glad they're workin.I've still no harness....mine fire everytime.There may be something to that suggestion "burn em in for at least 5 minutes"...that's what I did.Course,I also had some lighting probs at first--removed those plugs and straight in wired the leads to the factory connectors.Seemed to be okay in my case.

I have a 2006 zx14 that i put the ddm hids in.I got the 55w 6000s.I installed them and tried them out and on low beam i some times only get one to light up,and then when i do have both on and use the high beams the minute i hit the switch it kills the motor.YOU guys have any ideas it seams that you guys are knot having any problems.

wow k12 first ive ever heard of that problem. might call ddm, they told me to get the relay harness for my highs and that fixed my problem. now if i remember right they did say the 55w hids would be more prone to power problems on a bike so you may just need 2 harnesses but dont buy from ddm they sell on ebay for $15 ea shipped. good luck keep us posted

I got the 35w 6000K DDMs and love them to death. 100% reliable, and more light than I need.

"very twinkly very sparkley"..."wheel of fortune comes on at six,yeah,comes on at six...."I have to have my jello before I go to bed....starts at six,yeah,very twinkly very sparkley"."Dad let's me drive in the driveway,yeah,Saturday morning...drive in the driveway,yeah"Uh Oh....

You might have seen this post elsewhere, was trying to find the most knowledgeable thread:

Im putting in HIDs from DDM, no time to get this wrong and just got off the phone with a rep there who said:

"We carry two types of H11 HIDs, one with a straight base and one with a 90 degree right angle base. In somme cases the right angle base is required for space reasons and this requires a extra wire we will send...we don't know anything about motorcycles here, we do almost exclusively BMW and other cars..."

Q) My stock H11 bulbs have their connectors (as you know) at a 90 degree [down] angle, can anyone tell me if I should order the STRAIGHT base or 90 degree base HID kit. This is the digital balast versions btw.

Q) Can the ZX-14 stock wiring harness handle 55W (5000k) H11 low beams AND 35W (5000k) H9 hi beams without damage or issue?? Btw, Im going for just bright white light, if there is a little blue, its ok.

Thanks guys, speedy response from anyone with experience is deeply appreciated!!

Drew

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