A picture is worth 1000 words...My lights are bright like the Sun....

I'm with Blue on this one; I've been flashed already during the day, so I know these things get me noticed. The output differential between the stockers and my HID's is obvious. Now, I'm not too happy with the low beam settings and the fact that one cannot raise low beams without raising high beams. If I really want to see at night, I still have to have the high beams on, but can't blame this on the HID because they light up the part of the road they shine on really well. I'm also running 55w, 6000K...

TX-you can adjust your low beam up to shine out in front farther-then you won't need to use the high at night unless ya REALLY want to blast away the dark.They'll need to come up some-and OUT as well.Do that adjustment with the two INNER bolts there inside the fairing(on the low beam lenses).You'll get a brighter side illumination and you "may" not need to adjust "up" too much.But the lows can come up pretty well out to the front there.

Hey Scott-your replacement bulb numbers are H9 PIAA and H11 PIAA.194 is the running lamp #.

I got the 5K set. I do agree that its noticeably brighter but I guess I was expecting more, you know when people say "its like daylight" or "brighter than the sun" it kind of amps you up. I'm not bashing the kits or the lights just a little underwhelmed thats all.

Mine didn't look "crazy bright" at certain angles-BUT....when they're pointing at ya straight on-yep-very twinkly,very sparkly.LOL...and at night-fuggetaboutit-blinding is all I can say!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/10/2009 @ 3:40 PM *

I think that the 4500K would have been a brighter choice, more whiter than the 5000K's.
I have the 5000K also and they are more blue than I would have liked. I may change them out for the 4500K, but for now they are MUCH better than the stock bulbs, Don't forget to jack up the beams some, the stock settings are way to low.

Here guys-here's your color chart...Higher wattage is going to intensify whatever K's you're using.White's near the center-yellow's down at the 4000 range-blue is UP at the top range.You can't have "blue looking bulbs" at 4500 K's.Or "whites" at 12,000K's.If your bulbs look BLUE-the K's are up there somewhere.Not down at 4500-you'll be wasting your money trying to get a brighter illumination from a top K bulb.I've got 6000K-BRIGHT-WHITE.No yellow,no blue.55 watt.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/11/2009 @ 2:16 PM *

Well that's the chart I used, but my 5000K are blue, that's if they are truly the correct bulbs. I can not confirm that either, there are no markings on the bulbs indicating so.
Your 6000K may appear to be brighter white because of the 55 watt ballast your running.
I’m running the 35 watt ballast.

Hey Pilot I know my lights are blue upon startup, but after 20 seconds or so its verry white. I didnt turn the headlamps up because from what I understand that makes the brights useless and I dont like the idea of having two kits with one being worthless.

Yes.....Mine need about a minute or so and they get real bright.
You may want to experiment with the adjustments............ I found that very rarely I would need to turn the highs on at all. Yes... you are right about the adjustments......the lows and high go up and down and left and right in unison.

I adjusted my lows out in front about 30,40 feet.Very nice.Illuminates the whole road plenty far ahead.Then when ya use the brights(on those DARK lonely roads)EVERYTHING for hundreds of feet are lit up-VERY nice for reflecting those deer eyes ahead and off in the brush!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/12/2009 @ 6:16 PM *

blue,

How do you adjust just the lows? When the lows come up, doesn't that mean the highs come up as well?

They both rise together.Unfortunately.But you can get yer lows to illuminate really well as I said-adjust at night and get em out in front of ya there.You probably won't use the brights much-but they will be THERE when ya need em.I don't ride at night,barely ever,but daytime-I use my brights and lows together always(unless I'm sitting behind a cage and the brights are hittin their rearview mirror pretty good).Don't want to unnecessarily cause problems ya know?You can get a really good field of view at night by adjusting the beams "outwards" as well.Not a lot,but away from pinpointing directly in front of the bike.That seems to help with low beam illumination for me anyway.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/12/2009 @ 7:30 PM *

just installed my DDM kit for the highs and lows...got the 35 watt 5k set h11 and h9 bulbs. The whole thing was basically plug and play for the most part. The only problem was that the low beams, the bikes harness has reversed leads, to fix this i cut off the alignment tab on the HID bulb socket with a dremel and wrapped all the connectors with electrical tape...35 watts @ 5k, pure white light really bright...only thing left is to tuck away the ballasts, trying to figure out something to double stack them under the windscreen with some kind of spacer between them to allow air to get in between them, will try to post pics once completed

.only thing left is to tuck away the ballasts, trying to figure out something to double stack them under the windscreen with some kind of spacer between them to allow air to get in between them, will try to post pics once completed

Wow...... you R going to place 4 ballasts under the wind screen? This must be a magic trick, two yes but not four. Please post pics. If this can be done I will copy. Cheers.

well it's no guarantee, but it looked possible, gonna work on it more next weekend most likely. the weather took a crap so progress will be getting slower, but will definitely put pictures up for whoever else wants to give it a try.

I guess I finally got it to work with all 4 ballasts under the windscreen...haven't ran them long enough to see if there will be any overheat issues, but the way my "design" is ,lol, i don't think that it will be a problem. I made two stacks of ballasts each stack containing one high and one low beam ballast from opposite sides, I tried my best to show it in the pictures. The whole idea I had with that was that since the ballasts were stacked, if you had a stack with one high and one low, only one of the will really be working and creating heat at a time unless you have the high beams on. The other way I tried to resolve the issue is by leaving a gap between the ballasts by using only two little strips of the provided double side tape on the edges leaving a small gap for air to go in between. The more forward stack or bottom if looking at the picture is not secured by any tape or anything because it seemed to sit there pretty snug. Had to removed the mirrors to be able to pull the cowling up a little and snake the wires under the mount for the mirrors. Works for now, will update if this layout starts causing f**k ups lol

the pix aren't the best, took them with the phone, hope it works!

* Last updated by: rcflyer1388 on 12/14/2009 @ 2:33 PM *

Very nice RC-good job on those.Running lamps are?

Great job Rc. Pictures tell it all

thnx,hope it helped...the running lights are just 5 LED 194 bulbs that I picked up from a buddy of mine that runs a custom shop, I threw the box away, can't tell you who makes them, they seemed like they would match the headlights and they actually did, basically as long as its not those yellow bulbs that piss light, just hope they don't drop out the socket cause it seemed like a snug fit. this summer will test if this setup will have an overheat problem lol

* Last updated by: rcflyer1388 on 12/14/2009 @ 6:49 PM *

I have located 2 ballasts behind each of the signal light brackets. The factory foam keeps them in place and helps with vibrations. I'm sure I will be to lazy to change. RC, You going to love them. My 194 bulbs have not fallen out and have given me no trouble whatsoever. The earlier systems that were analog gave some grief, but the New digital systems with the ingnitor out side the ballast seem to be trouble free. Knock on wood. Congrats

lol, yea i'm sure, i know where i put them now i'm not gonna wanna move them just because of being lazy, i should have thought about the vibration, o wellz, we'll see how long they will last, one thing i noticed is that when i turn the high beams on, one of the lights don't turn on right away and i have to cycle the switch, its been doing that since i pulled the ballasts out of the box and just hooked it up to try them, no big deal i guess...but the 194's are great and look good, can't wait to start lighting up the highway at night once the weather starts to get nicer again

its been doing that since i pulled the ballasts out of the box and just hooked it up to try them

I think Blue07 had a issue like this earlier on. RC, switch the ballasts see if problem follows. Warranty still applies right?. I installed the analog set in my truck, they only lasted 6 Months, sense, both have failed. There is two threads started on the same subject which makes it hard to read the troubleshoot info. Post your findings.

yea i should try to switch up the ballasts and see if the problem follows, on the ddm site it has a troubleshooting guide i found, and they say to also try swapping the bulbs, i think imma try that first lol, just because i'm kinda trying to avoid pulling too much apart since i just got it all in...with my luck it's prob the ballast and i will have to pull it all out either way